Ivan Polykhaev,

[B]I started creating clothes when I was in school. We, young musicians, needed to perform in something. It was crazy in the stores in those years, so we bought simple things, for example, officer’s underwear, sewed them in, dyed them, applied designs with Hermesil... I sewed leather appliqués on my grandfather’s jackets, a la rockabilly, and boiled jeans in bleach for all my friends.” Frost" or "Lily". [B]In the mid-1990s, the rapid development of clothing retail began. Shops aimed at youth began to appear in Moscow (Mask, Bulldog, etc.). It was cool. I wanted to sew myself what, in my opinion, was missing in new stores. I started making clothes associated with the counterculture: jeans, Mary Jane dresses, DJ AT WORK down jackets (someone even produced vinyl bags with the same name) and sold them in these stores. The downside was that, working with a couple of stores for sales, there was always not enough money for development. Therefore, soon I had to produce clothes for companies with a full cycle, from creating a brand to the counter. Both the minus and the plus is that the clothes were created with the mass buyer in mind, but with “above average” financial capabilities: i.e. it was necessary to produce a product in the premium segment in such a way as to outstrip neighboring “global brands” in sales. The key to success is luxurious fabrics, high-quality execution, good cut and a fairly classic design, but with a twist, because things were sold in TsUM, GUM... Nowadays many fabrics can be bought in Moscow to order, but then we flew to Paris and Milan for exhibitions Premiere Vision, Moda In, Idea Biella. As a result, the cost increased. One of our designers, who was a success at fashion weeks, decided to sell in a premium boutique, where prices for world brands were much lower than for his one-of-a-kind collection. [B]Every global brand is a gigantic company, often part of a super-holding. In this system, “every bearing is lubricated”: from the planning stages years in advance to sketches and production. This system has everything: basic designs of models that have been repeated for decades, with slight adjustments to the trend, a permanent franchise or its own network of stores, established contacts with manufacturing enterprises, gigantic production volumes that affect cost reduction, etc. - all this significantly reduces the cost of products from world brands. In the case of a Russian designer, not everything is so simple: it is not enough to make an expensive collection, paying for the services of designers, technologists, tailors, and laboratories. The problem is that in Russia there are no high-quality sewing components available. Be it wool felt, fur, accessories, fabrics, etc... Everything needs to be made to order from Europe and Japan. And this falls within the minimum quantities, i.e. - leftovers. And take logistics... and reproduction for a small-scale batch... [B]We live in a society that itself regulates what is fashionable and what is not. Until the wind came, bringing fashion for “ala Russian style” (like DSquared2 - “ala Canadian”), all the artificiality is a farce. I believe that original clothing has a place at an opening day or in private collections. It is good to wear national clothes on traditional Russian holidays: Maslenitsa, Ivan Kupala Day, if you want... Using any elements is another matter. Kosovorotka, Orenburg or Pavloposad scarves, a sweatshirt with a hat with earflaps can become popular like ugg boots or a cowboy hat, but for a season or two, because these are not industrial items. In the industry, objects and things are constantly changing and improving, and for this they must be sold. [B]If behind the Palekh box there was a multi-billion dollar global brand with unquestionable authority, then having the same one at home would be an honor for many. And where there is a Palekh box, there would be a Palekh wardrobe, a suitcase and a skyscraper. I understand that the people of Palekh and Orenburg have something to be proud of, but clothing designers... You can print Ivanovo calico on the English Liberty Art and sew beautiful flowing dresses from high-quality cotton brought from Egypt, woven in Tunisia, processed in Italy and printed in England American dyes, in China! I am for the use of Russian symbols by our designers. The main thing is that the filling is tasty. I am currently working on a new collection, inspired by the period in my life from 16 to 25 years old. Then I was interested in almost nothing except music and what was inside our community: cult films, books, concerts, exhibitions. It's like healthy fanaticism: we lived obsessed with ideas. I could spend every penny on records, equipment, synthesizers, compose music on my workstation korg x3 until 5 am, and run to work at 8 am. And, of course, I distinguished “us” from “strangers” by appearance. In the new collection, I wanted to convey those moods, that energy that youth exudes. If you understand and feel this, then you will be young both at 40 and 60 years old.
. Explosion autumn-winter 11/12 We are also going to open our own store. We will install several installations there, combining clothes with music and video art, play with light, with the texture of materials... We are trying to assemble everything by the end of August.

Designer for the Grunge John Orchestra brand. Explosion Igor Isaev told be-in about simple things that are difficult to do

Designer

“I don’t strive to be an eccentric or an outcast. I would like people to be able to try on our entire image and at the same time, the materials from which the things are made are the best. We believe that material is the force of movement. Our task is to make things that last for years.

Our clothes are for self-sufficient people who understand quality and choose what they really like. An independent person does not live by tracing paper. We wanted to emphasize this with a small performance at the beginning of the show, when children with flags came onto the podium, because children are taught from childhood how they should live. Everyone should have their own way of expressing themselves without being assigned to a subculture or imposed rules. Right now I think we’re at a tipping point where everyone is isolated.”

Sketch

“For many, fashion is color and shape, but for us, fashion is dictated, first of all, by materials, in collections they are made especially for us, we work with the most iconic manufacturers of Italian and Japanese fabrics. The fabrics are not simple - mackintosh, microfiber, pigmented fabric. Now we have made denim and down hats, we even have down butterflies, and down dresses are very light - they can be rolled up and put in a bag.”

Designer's sketch

About the park

“We take pride in the processing of our materials: the fabrics are washed, then pigmented and dyed. For example, this parka has wool in the hood - it was soaked for a long time so that it shrinks and loses its hygroscopicity. A parka made of Japanese microfiber: we painted the lining, it turned out to be so multi-colored.”

“A men's jacket is the most complex product in the clothing industry. And our jacket has several layers, complex pockets, belts, leather details and down fasteners. It's all very difficult to connect. In order to sew, of course, you need skills and patterns, but it’s still easier than making such a jacket from waxed cotton and wool.”

Coat from the Grunge John Orchestra collection

About fashion

“In Russia, people don’t understand why fashion exists: everyone sews floor-length dresses and turns to minimalism because it’s easier to do. I don’t really accept phantasmogoria in clothing: we, of course, all live in a theater, but still things should be comfortable and functional. We don't have a goal to do complex things: we do simple things that are difficult to do. These things are multi-layered: they can be separated and transformed. These are functional things. I like fabrics with a background. The Japanese, for example, have high-tech materials, while the British have traditions; some fabrics have been produced for 50 years.”

On March 30, as part of Volvo Fashion Week in Moscow in Gostiny Dvor, the “Crystal” designer was on the podium Igor Isaev will present the autumn-winter collection of the new brand Grunge John Orchestra. Explosion . Men's and women's denim lines, thoughtful Hi-End outerwear: GJO.E is one of those brands that would have been worth inventing if they didn't exist. Start: 17:30.

“Clothes with signs of wear” - this is how the dictionary defines one of the meanings of the word “grunge”. Meanwhile, fashion digests are proclaiming his return to the world's catwalks. For Igor Isaev, creating clothes on the verge of Grunge and Hi-End has been a way of life for more than 10 years.

“These things look a little beaten, you can see the history in them,” says Igor about his collection.” It's about grunge. “But at the same time they are completely new. The effect is achieved using complex technologies - dyeing, enzymatic, stone washing. And this is about Hi-End.

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The men's and women's collections from Igor Isaev are a denim line made from organic denim with “history” (produced in Japan on retro machines that imitate weaving half a century ago) ; outerwear made from natural and high-tech materials (genuine leather jackets, sheepskin coats, parkas, pilot jackets, down jackets); knitwear (hoodies, sweatshirts, kangaroos) and shirts. In essence, everything that we wear every day, but for which we so easily separate “ours” from “not ours.”

One of the specific features of GJO.E is high-tech materials. Microfiber, membranes, seam taping, fabrics that absorb mobile phone radiation (for example, on the inside pocket of a jacket) - all this cannot be avoided when producing clothes for the Russian climate, Igor Isaev is sure: “These things are not cold in cold weather, and even then At the same time, it’s comfortable indoors or in a car.”

But that is not all. One of the “tricks” of GJO.E is an unusual method of coloring. It’s hard to believe, but most things are sewn from white fabric (and it doesn’t matter whether it’s natural fiber or hi-tech - the more interesting the result), and then dyed in several stages, treated with pigments, and faded with aggressive washing (stonewash or enzymewash). About 30% of things are discarded after processing - despite all the perfection of technology, genuine leather and cotton are capricious and unpredictable materials. But the result is a complex, heterogeneous, “aged” color, by which you can distinguish an exclusive item at first sight.

To all of the above, add a 3D cut that takes into account the anthropometric features of the figure, which is worked on by a whole team of experienced designers and technologists. Therefore, as a result, even a strictly fitting item does not hinder movement.

And the abundance of fashionable and highly functional details, attention to the smallest elements of fittings, the design of which is drawn personally by Igor and produced in Italy and Switzerland, logically complete the description of a modern brand of European level, which is high time to appear in Moscow.

Creator of Grunge John Orchestra. Explosion - Igor Isaev, musician and designer. His friends simply call him John. Igor Isaev was born in Ivanovo, and has been interested in music since childhood. Together with a popular children's group, he traveled a lot, absorbing European culture through street fashion. “When our own group appeared, the question arose, where to get the right clothes? It wasn’t available in stores, so we started experimenting,” says John. Old American jeans, repurposed military uniforms, homemade prints, construction boots and the occasional item from a cult brand—fashion began from the inside out, not from the university. In 1989, the future designer was kicked out of the entrance exam to the textile institute for his defiant appearance. “We taught ourselves. We took items from our favorite brands, found out which fabric suppliers they work with and went to the exhibition. They told us: “Are you from Russia? We do not work with Russia. It was the early 90s." Quite soon, Igor stood at the head of a whole team of like-minded people - designers, technologists, artists, capable of creating and bringing to market a highly sought-after product.

ORCHESTRA

“Where did the word “orchestra” come from? - Igor tells the story of combining four, at first glance, random words in the brand name. - That's because I'm not alone. A team of professionals has been working with me for many years, and I really appreciate that during this time we have formed a real team.”

Together with the “orchestra”, Igor gained significant experience, for a long time developing clothes for many Russian chains, including the Egoist chain of stores. A year ago, the decision was made to launch an independent brand: “Many people believe that it is impossible to establish modern production in Russia. We prove the opposite by our example. If we combine the efforts of high-quality manufacturers, our own experience and the experience of a professional team, everything becomes possible.” We can say that over the years of his work, Igor Isaev changed the fashion for men's outerwear in our country. In any subway car, he can use specific examples to show counterfeits of his models and tell us when and why they appeared.

EXPLOSION

The show at Gostiny Dvor as part of Volvo Fashion Week in Moscow is just the first wave of an explosion called Grunge John Orchestra. Explosion. The next step is the opening of the Grunge John Orchestra flagship boutique in April. Explosion on Nikitsky Boulevard. “We designed the store in an industrial style and used natural materials. I love everything natural - cotton, leather, wood, brick, metal, clean forest, with no plastic bags scattered throughout. That's why we will only use paper that can be recycled without harming the environment. And in the very center of the store we will put a huge fireplace, where during sales things will “burn” at attractive prices,” says Igor Isaev.

The team’s immediate plans include creating a real community using social networks, twitter and facebook.

“We will try to keep prices at an acceptable level; there will be special offers for young people. We want everyone, from a student to a billionaire, in our country to have the opportunity to dress beautifully, comfortably and with taste,” sums up Igor Isaev.

JOHN.
Creator of Grunge John Orchestra. Explosion - Igor Isaev, musician and designer. His friends simply call him John. Igor Isaev was born in Ivanovo, and has been interested in music since childhood. Together with a popular children's group, he traveled a lot, absorbing European culture through street fashion.

“When our own group appeared, the question arose, where to get the right clothes? It wasn’t available in stores, and then we started experimenting.”, says John. Old American jeans, repurposed military uniforms, homemade prints, construction boots and the occasional hand-me-down from iconic brands—fashion began from the inside out, not from the university.

In 1989, the future designer was kicked out of the entrance exam to the textile institute for his defiant appearance. “We taught ourselves. We took items from our favorite brands, found out which fabric suppliers they work with and went to the exhibition. We were told : "You are from Russia? We do not work with Russia. This was the beginning90s". Quite soon, Igor stood at the head of a whole team of like-minded people - designers, technologists, artists, capable of creating and bringing to market a highly sought-after product.

ORCHESTRA.
“Where did the word “orchestra” come from?? — Igor tells the story of combining four, at first glance, random words in the brand name. — This is because I am not alone. A team of professionals has been working with me for many years, and I really appreciate that during this time we have formed a real team.”

Together with the “orchestra”, Igor gained significant experience, for a long time developing clothes for many Russian chains, including the Egoist chain of stores. A year ago it was decided to launch an independent brand: “Many people believe that it is impossible to establish modern production in Russia. We prove the opposite by our example. If we combine the efforts of high-quality manufacturers, our own experience and the experience of a professional team, everything becomes possible.”

We can say that over the years of his work, Igor Isaev changed the fashion for men's outerwear in our country. In any subway car, he can use specific examples to show counterfeits of his models and tell us when and why they appeared.

EXPLOSION.
The show at Gostiny Dvor as part of Volvo Fashion Week in Moscow is just the first wave of an explosion called Grunge John Orchestra. Explosion.

“We designed the store in an industrial style and used natural materials. I love everything natural - cotton, leather, wood, brick, metal, clean forest, with no plastic bags scattered throughout. That's why we will only use paper that can be recycled without harming the environment. And in the very center of the store we will put a huge fireplace, where things will “burn” at attractive prices during sales.”, says Igor Isaev.

The team’s immediate plans are to create a real community using social networks, twitter and facebook. “We will try to keep prices at an acceptable level; there will be special offers for young people. We want everyone, from a student to a billionaire, in our country to have the opportunity to dress beautifully, comfortably and with taste,”— Igor Isaev summarizes.

Fashionable, stylish, high-quality clothing made in Russia - this seems fantastic to our consumers. And, by and large, this is true: over twenty-five years of market development, we have not managed to create an advanced textile industry. But there are enthusiastic manufacturers who, of course, do not have much market influence, but their example shows that it is possible to create a high-quality product in Russia. Such is the clothing company Grunge John Orchestra. Explosion. It is focused on creating functional clothing with a complex cut from environmentally friendly materials using advanced technologies. There are no analogues to this either in Russia or in the world.

“Our brand is already at the highest global level. We use unique technologies, sophisticated materials, and top-class components. All our items are functional and each has its own character. But the most important thing is that our clothes will not go out of fashion in six months or five years and, perhaps, they will be worn in a hundred years, unless the materials change,” says the designer, founder of the Grunge John Orchestra brand. Explosion Igor Isaev. Already today, his clothes, made in Moscow, are sold not only in Russia, but also in England, Japan, Italy, Spain, Germany, and in the fall sales begin in the USA and Canada. The company's experience shows what impressive results can be achieved, despite the fact that the country completely lacks its own textile industry.

School of Experiments

Igor Isaev came to his project six years ago. First, I developed the idea of ​​my own brand, thought about what specific clothes, materials, accessories it would have, and drew sketches. I decided that I would produce only high-quality items: there is always a lot of cheap stuff, the markets are filled with it, and besides, it is difficult to explain the complex cut and stylistic features of clothes to an undemanding buyer. Gradually I came up with an original concept, which, on the one hand, meets the criteria of a subculture associated with music and creativity. On the other hand, the work and military clothing of Americans and Europeans of the early and mid-twentieth centuries became a reference point in the creation of collections.

This ideological concept did not develop by chance. In the past, Igor was a musician, involved in rock music. In my younger years, I had to sew clothes for performances myself, fortunately I had a penchant for this. Then tailoring turned from a necessity into a hobby, and then into a business.

Igor Isaev has been working in the clothing business for more than twenty years, although he modestly calls himself self-taught. Born in the city of sewing workers Ivanovo. After school, I dreamed of entering a textile institute, but I didn’t get in (I came to the exam in a self-made suit, and for a small mistake, the strict ladies-examiners immediately said goodbye to the extraordinary young man). After the army, Igor practiced at the country's leading clothing factories: he designed women's coats at the Salyut factory, and sewed men's suits at Bolshevichka. Then I gained experience in sewing factories in Italy and other countries. “Perhaps I was lucky that I didn’t get a classical