Armhole height and how to calculate sleeve width

Who knows what armhole height is and what it is needed for?

Maybe someone doesn’t want to delve into what it is needed for, but it is very important.

The height of the armhole is important in order to correctly calculate the sleeve in all directions.

To pair the sleeve cap with the armhole, it is necessary to determine the length of the armhole and its vertical diameter.

We measure the length of the armhole from point P1 to point P5.

To determine the vertical diameter of the armhole, we connect points P1 and P5.

Divide this line in half and put point O.

From the resulting point O, we lower the perpendicular to the depth line of the opening GG3 and place point O1.

ОО1 is the vertical diameter of the armhole.

The height of the sleeve collar = the vertical diameter of the armhole - (minus) segment OO2, which for various sizes is equal to:

OG3:
88 - 92, ОО2 = 2.5 cm;
96 - 104, ОО2 = 2 cm;
108 - 116, ОО2 = 1.5 cm;
120 and above OO2 = 1 cm.

Sleeve height:

Determining the width of the sleeve.

1st method:

Sleeve width = Shruk = 1.25*(Dpr + Ppos) - 1.6*O1O2 - 1.8 / 2

Where:
Dpr - armhole length;
Ppos - landing allowance;
Ppos = Dpr*N, where N is the norm for fitting the sleeve edge per 1 cm of armhole length.

Norm for planting an edge per 1 cm Dpr:

Types of fabrics	Planting rate, cm
Wool suits with synthetic fibers of more than 30%, silk dresses made of synthetic fibers and lightweight crepe dresses made of natural silk (crepe chiffon), etc.	0,04 - 0,06
Wool suiting with synthetic fibers from 15 to 30%, silk, medium-weight crepe (crepe de Chine) and cotton summer dresses (voile, etc.)	0,06 - 0,08
Pure wool dress, silk dress and suit, cotton dress, demi-season (cashmere, plaid, etc.), linen, cotton clothing, worsted suit	0,08 - 0,1
P/w worsted dress, woolen suit, cloth, pure wool, coat, fine cloth	0,1 - 0,12
Wool coats, coarse and fine cloth drapes	0,12 - 0,14
Soft pure wool drapes, fine cloth	0,15 - 0,16

2nd method:

Shrook = Op + Pop / 2

Where:
Op - shoulder circumference;
Pop - an increase in shoulder circumference.

Fashionable sleeves, several exclusive non-standard models

Sewing an armhole-sleeve knot on knitwear

We will need
- bias tape to match the color of the knitted fabric
-4-thread overlocker, well-adjusted for thread tension
-needles for stitching stretch fabrics

Cut the bias tape in half, with the cut edge facing the outside of the shoulder seam

Sew the shoulder seam, ribbon on the back, iron the seam onto the front

We apply the sleeve to the armhole, aligning the marks. The tape will be laid from arrow to arrow. Let's put marks at the ends of the arrows so that we know where to put the ribbon.

We pin the sleeve to the armhole and begin to attach the armhole to the sleeve, stitching along the armhole. And in the place of the mark we also apply a ribbon. The cut of the ribbon is directed towards the outer edge of the seam. Before sewing, cut the ends of the ribbon diagonally.

-beginning of the ribbon -end of the ribbon

Remove the pins as you sew and finish the seam to the end of the armhole

This is what the finished version looks like. What is good about this method - a sculptural rim

Knitwear has one significant feature - the bottom fabric shrinks when stitched. Keep this in mind - the bottom edge needs to be pulled up slightly to even out the cuts. So that when you reach the end of the seam you do not encounter an annoying surprise: the seams do not meet in length. Therefore, the sleeve is sewn along the armhole, and not along the sleeve, as in conventional fabrics. This way the sleeve shrinks slightly on its own.

PROCESSING RAGLAN SLEEVES. MASTER CLASS.

1. Fold the face sleeve pieces inwards, matching the top points of the neckline and the underarm edges. Pin and baste the outer seam. Machine stitch it 1 cm from the edge. Take out the basting and make notches on the outer shoulder curve.

2. Zigzag each seam allowance in turn, lay it out and press it on both sides of the seam. Baste and stitch the underarm seam. Also process the seam allowances.
3. Place the garment evenly along the side seam, wrong side up. Cover the front and back sections of the armhole with adhesive tape, being careful not to deform it. Work the cut in a zigzag pattern, grabbing the adhesive tape.

4. Turn the sleeve inside out and pin it right side out along the armhole line, aligning the edges of the neckline, underarm seams and marks. Baste, being careful not to stretch or press the edge of the sleeve.
5. Machine stitch along the armhole line near the inside edge of the tape.

6. Pull out the basting. Make the necessary notches on the underarm seam allowances. Zigzag stitch each individual seam allowance.

7. Lay out seam allowances and iron. In less accessible places, iron the product with the tip of the iron.

Classic and short flounce sleeves

The flounce sleeve pattern is based on the same classic sleeve pattern, and is somewhat reminiscent of creating a wing sleeve.

To do this, we need to strip it into narrow vertical stripes (Figure 1). Cut each strip from bottom to top, WITHOUT REACHING THE 5 MM ROUND (Figure 2).


Now we need to take a new sheet of paper, place our pattern on it and unfold it like a fan, so that the edging line becomes a circle line (that is, it forms a ring), Fig. 3.


They put it away, now it remains outline new pattern (see red line in Fig. 4)

All the pattern is ready. Such a sleeve is sewn to the armhole along the edge of the inner circle (Fig. 5, 6).

As you noticed in the photo above, the second light dress has a very short flounce sleeve.

To make its pattern, you just need to shorten the pattern we just created - in this way (see picture below).

FULNESS SLEEVE - LONG

If you want to decorate your dress with such an elongated sleeve flounce, then below you will find detailed instructions on how to properly make such a flounce.

For this we only need to take 2 measurements:

Measure A- Measure on the product (on a dress or on a blouse) the length of the line along which the flounce sleeve will be sewn. The line runs from the front, across the shoulder and down the back (Figure 1)

Measure B- the length of the flounce sleeve wing itself, from the shoulder area of ​​sewing it to the armhole to the point on the arm where you want it to end (Fig. 2)

These measurements are needed to make a pattern like this (Figure 3). That is, our shuttlecock, when unfolded, will resemble a “lopsided donut”.

The widest part of the donut will rest on the shoulder, and the left and right sides will be sewn to the front and back. And the inner ring of this “donut” will be sewn to the dress.

And that means to create a pattern, we need to draw a circle whose length is equal to the length of the sewing line to the dress (measurement A) - Fig. 3.

Those who didn’t understand will understand now. I will show you step by step the entire process of creating this pattern.

CREATING A PATTERN FOR A LONG FULLAND SLEEVE.

Step 1. Draw a circle radius = measure A: 6.28.

For example. The sewing length (measurement A) is 67 cm on my dress. So we calculate the radius using this formula 67: 6.28 = 10.6. We take a compass, spread its legs to a distance of 10 cm 6 mm and draw a circle with this radius (Fig. 4).

If you don't have a compass- for example, I don’t have compasses in my house, so you can make a simple design for drawing circles. Take a spool of thread and tie one end of the thread to a pin. We tied it to a strong knot, now we measure 10 cm 6 mm from the knot and draw a mark on the thread with a felt-tip pen. And in the marked place we wrap a pencil that will draw this circle. That's it, the design is ready. Between the pin and the pencil we have a distance of 10 cm 6 mm. We stick a pin into the center of a paper sheet, stretch the thread with a pencil and draw a circle with this diameter around the pin.

Step 2.

Through the center of the circle we draw a vertical line that goes up beyond the circle (Fig. 5). The center of the circle is the hole from a pin or the sharp leg of a compass. Place a thick dot in the place where the line intersects the circle (point A in Fig. 5).

Now on this line from point A up, measure a distance that is equal to measure B. And put it in here point B (Figure 6).

Next, draw a horizontal line through the center of the circle. At the place where it intersects with the circle, place point B. And on this line, also mark a distance equal to HALF of the measurement B. We measured and placed point D. (Fig. 7)

Step 3.

Now we connect these points with smooth rounded lines. As in the picture above, so that we get half of our “donut” (Fig. 8, 9).

To make a whole pattern from half a donut, you need to fold a sheet of paper vertically in half and cut it with scissors along the drawn lines. You will get a whole donut pattern (Figure 11).

Don't forget to add seam allowances to your pattern. It is important to know here that Along the inner cut of the flounce, the seam allowance should be no more than 1 cm. If the allowance is made larger, then when sewing the flounce, unnecessary folds will form.

Now all that remains is to process the outer edges of the shuttlecock. And sew the flounce along the inner cut of the circle (Fig. 12 - red line) - we sew one half of the donut to the front, the other to the back.

That's all the wisdom. Now you can get to work. We sew for children, we sew for ourselves.

Modeling cap sleeves.

Creating a wing sleeve pattern.

First we need it.

To turn a classic sleeve pattern into a wing sleeve, you need to strip it with vertical lines. The lines must be drawn at the same distance from one another (Fig. 1)

Now along the outlined lines you need cut our classic pattern. Do not cut - just cut from the bottom up, WITHOUT CUTTING TO THE END.


Now we take a new sheet of paper and place our pattern on it, spreading it like a fan - like this (Fig. 2). Try to remove the “fan blades” equal distance from each other(Fig. 2).

We choose an arbitrary distance between the “blades”. The greater the distance, the more folds you will get on the wing sleeve.

The choice of fabric is also arbitrary. If you want soft flowing wing folds- then take knitted fabric, soft stretch or any flowing fabric.

Then it will protrude slightly, like a real wing.

When the sleeve pieces are arranged in the way we need, it remains outline future new wing sleeve pattern

That's it, the wing sleeve pattern is ready.

Such a wing sleeve is sewn to the armhole in exactly the same way - along the edge - as a regular classic sleeve.

WING SLEEVE TWO-, THREE-TIERED.

And to make such a three-tiered wing sleeve, we need a pattern of a regular wing sleeve and a sheet of paper.

Place the pattern on paper and finish drawing and lengthen it by 2-4 cm. We get pattern No. 2, slightly longer than the first.

Now take this pattern No. 2, put it on a new sheet of paper and also lengthen it by 2-4 cm- we get pattern No. 3.


Cut out all 3 pieces from fabric and put them on top of each other. Sew together along the edging line.


Now all this three-tiered wing can be sewn to the armhole in the same way as a regular one - along the edging line .

TRIM CAP SLEEVE.

Sometimes there is also a wing cut off at the shoulder, as in the photo above.

In this case, we need to make the following changes to the standard wing pattern.

We take the pattern of a classic wing and draw on it a cutout of the depth we need.

Well, that's all - now you can get to work. Olga Klishevskaya, especially for the site ""

And today I’ll tell you how to make a puff sleeve pattern for children’s and adult dresses yourself. Like this:

The puff sleeve pattern differs from the classic sleeve pattern in that the rim line is raised and expanded. I explained in detail what a sleeve roll is. At the bottom, the puff sleeve ends with a cuff or the edge of the sleeve is simply folded, as in the picture above.

The puff sleeve can be absolutely any width and length (see photo collage below).

Today we will make a puff sleeve of moderate height - a classic puff sleeve.

So let's get started

Creating a puff sleeve pattern.

First we need classic sleeve pattern- I outlined the detailed construction of the classic sleeve pattern in part of the series.

Place the standard sleeve pattern in front of you and draw a line connecting the ends of its edge(corners). Now from the highest point of the okata draw a line down to our horizontal line. Now on both sides of this median draw two more lines- at the same distance from each other (Fig. 1)

Now along the outlined lines you need cut our classic pattern.

We ended up with several pieces of the sleeve pattern. We lay them out on a new sheet of paper like this - see fig. 2. Try to arrange the top pieces (Fig. 2). The top pieces, as you noticed, we put fan-shaped.

Of course you have questions:

How high should the arc of our “fan” be? I answer - anyone. The higher you draw the arc, the more “buffet” the sleeve will turn out. Our sleeve will have an arc height of 3-6 cm.

What fabric makes the sleeve look best? The answer is it depends on what you want to get.

If you need soft flowing puff folds (photo A)- then take jersey fabric, knitwear, muslin or any flowing fabric. And then make a high puff arc on the pattern, and expand the sleeve pattern itself to the sides from bottom to top - this is necessary for the soft folds to fall freely.

If you sew a sleeve from thick fabric, then it will rise royally above the shoulder line (photo C).

And if a puff sleeve made of thick fabric is also pushed to the sides - that is, widened, and then gathered at the bottom into a cuff, you will get something between a puff sleeve and a puff sleeve (photo B).

So, we laid out our sleeve pieces in the way we needed. Now outline the outline future new puff sleeve.

That's it - the puff sleeve pattern is ready.

Sew the puff sleeve to the armhole.

note that assembly area when sewing the sleeve to the armhole, it is located only in the area where we expanded our pattern (Fig. 4).

There are two ways to sew a sleeve to the armhole.

Method 1.

This is if gather the sleeve part before sewing it to the armhole (Fig. 6). That is, we manually form folds in the assembly area, grabbing them with a needle. The depth of the folds and their number are arbitrary. That is, you can make four deep folds or six smaller ones. The main thing is that the length of the edge of the assembled sleeve should be equal to the length of the edge of the same classic sleeve from which we started making our pattern (that is, equal to the length of the armhole). Then, when sewn on, it will absolutely match our armhole.

To achieve this, you can first secure the tucks with pins. Apply to the armhole of the product or to the pattern of a classic sleeve and make sure that you do not pinch too much. If you pinch too much along the edge, the sleeve roll will become short and its length will not be enough to sew from armpit to armpit of our product.

Method 2.

This method does not require attaching the sleeve to the pattern or armhole during assembly and allows you to easily make folds by eye. First, we manually sew the front and back “underarm” parts of the sleeve cap to the armhole (we baste the sleeve to the armhole in those areas where it does not shrink - rice 4 yellow dotted lines). Sewed on, and the remaining middle part of the sleeve cap gather in relation to the shoulder section of the armhole .

And decorate the lower part of the sleeve in the form of a cuff, or fold the edge to the wrong side and stitch. You can also decorate it with an elegant braid on top.

Read the lesson - now get to work. We sew for children, we sew for ourselves.

In a separate part of the series I will tell you how to sew a puff sleeve to a dressyou with open shoulders, that is, to a dress that essentially has no armhole. Olga Klishevskaya.

How to make a lantern sleeve pattern yourself based on the received classic sleeve pattern. Like this:

Lantern sleeves differ from the usual classic sleeves in that they are gathered along the upper part of the cap line. I explained in detail what a sleeve cap is in the previous part of the article. In the lower part of the sleeve, the lanterns are gathered on an elastic band, on a cuff, or simply on a bias tape.

The flashlight sleeve can be absolutely any width and length; it doesn’t even have to be gathered at the bottom, but can be released freely, as in the third picture in the top row (see photo collage below). You can make it loosely gathered (the striped sleeve in the photo) or very fluffy (the red lantern sleeve in the photo).

Today we will make a sleeve lantern of moderate splendor - a classic lantern. So let's get started.

Creating a pattern for a flashlight sleeve.

First, we create a pattern for a classic sleeve - a detailed description in.

We take this standard pattern and find the middle in it - finding the middle is very simple - this perpendicular from the highest point of the sleeve edge. From the highest point of the okata we draw a line down.

Now on both sides of this line at the same distance from it we draw the same parallel lines (Fig. 1)

Cut the classic sleeve pattern along the marked lines. We will get four pieces of sleeve. We put them on a sheet of paper at an equal distance from each other(Fig. 2). We choose an arbitrary distance - 3-6 cm - the greater the distance, the more magnificent the flashlight sleeve will be.

Now we outline the outline of the future new pattern.

The lower edge of the flashlight sleeve pattern can simply be in the form of a straight line (purple line AB in Fig. 3). Or a semicircular line curved down. Or like mine (see Fig. 5 - red line) curved down on the back of the sleeve and concave up on the front of the sleeve.

That's it - the pattern of the classic lantern sleeve is ready.

note that assembly area when sewing the sleeve to the armhole, it is located only in the area where we expanded our pattern (Fig. 7).

You can sew a sleeve to the armhole of our dress or blouse in different ways.

Method 1.

First, we manually make folds on the sleeve part itself - we gather the sleeve part before sewing it to the armhole. When forming tucks and pleats, you need to constantly apply the sleeve piece to the armhole so as not to pinch too much - otherwise, when sewing it from armpit to armpit, it may not be enough.

Method 2.

We manually sew the front and back “underarm” parts of the sleeve cap to the armhole. That is, we baste the sleeve to the armhole in those areas where it does not shrink(Fig. 7 - okat line where there is no yellow dotted line). Sewn on, and the rest of the sleeve cap gather evenly relative to the shoulder section of the armhole- the sleeve is already sewn to the armpit parts of the armhole without assembly.

We sewed it by hand - now you can sew it on a machine.

Gather the lower part of the sleeve to the cuff, or make a drawstring and pull the elastic into it, or sew the elastic along the edge of the sleeve with a zigzag stitch. That's actually all the wisdom.

Pattern for a very puffy lantern sleeve.

Sometimes, according to the idea, it is very necessary for the flashlight sleeve to be more magnificent. Then you should make adjustments to the pattern of the classic flashlight sleeve.

On the lantern sleeve pattern we again draw lines - two on the front of the sleeve and two on its back (Fig. 9). And we cut these lines from the bottom and almost to the very edge.

Then the cut parts spread fan-shaped at an equidistant distance from one another(Fig. 10).

We put our “fan” on a sheet of paper and circle- in the end we get a pattern for a lush lantern sleeve (Fig. 11).

It is sewn to the armhole of the product in the same way as a classic flashlight sleeve. The only difference is that at the bottom, towards the cuff, it gathers in larger folds, than at the top, towards the armhole.

In a special part of the series I will tell you how to sew a puff sleeve to an off-the-shoulder dress, that is, to a dress without an armhole or to a dress with straps.

By what principles are they created? sleeves Sleeves for adult and children's clothing are created according to the same principles.

I used to sew exclusively dresses without sleeves, because I thought that I would never be able to master such a complex (as it seemed to me) sleeve pattern. But one day I sat down and spent the whole day studying all the sleeves in my wardrobe, read all the manuals on constructing a sleeve pattern - patiently building a sleeve drawing, first in one way, then in another. And as a result, I chose the most convenient and fastest way to draw a sleeve. You won’t have to suffer as much as I did, I’ll tell you everything in simple human language (without abstruse tailor terms).

I will provide the story with the most detailed pictures and diagrams - so clear that even a fifth grader could sew the sleeve himself. And labor teachers, by the way, will be able to use these pictures as visual material in their lessons.

After this series of articles, you will be able to come up with any sleeve design for dresses, T-shirts and blouses yourself.

The agenda is as follows:

— Classic sleeve, its components.
— Construction of a sleeve pattern with step-by-step pictures.
— Lantern sleeve.
— Puff sleeve
— The sleeve is a wing.
- Cap sleeve.
— Flounce sleeve
— Sleeve with round neckline.
— Striped sleeve.
— One-piece sleeve (sleeve as part of a one-piece front and back pattern).

So let's get started...

First, I want to introduce you to the basic terms: sleeve cap, sleeve height, etc.

Let's look at the first diagram:

In Figure 1 we see a simplified image of a short sleeve. This is what it looks like before it was sewn on. I’ll say right away that a long sleeve differs from a short sleeve only in length, so here we will learn how to make a short sleeve, and you can always lengthen it yourself if you wish.

The upper rounded line of the sleeve (by which it is sewn to the armhole) is called OKAT(Fig. 1).

Sleeve width- this is the distance between, roughly speaking, its “axillary” corners (Fig. 2)

The length of the sleeve- the distance from the armpit to the level we need (to the middle of the shoulder, to the elbow, to the wrist, etc.) (Fig. 3). Or the length of the sleeve can be calculated not from the armpit, but from the top of its collar (that is, from the shoulder seam - Fig. 5 (b)). As you prefer.

Okat can be high and low(Fig. 4) (this depends on the design of the dress, on the shape of its armholes) - but most often in clothes a standard armhole neckline and a standard classic sleeve with a standard edging height are used.

Classic sleeve pattern.

This standard sleeve We will draw with you now. And we will create the rest of the variety of sleeves using this standard pattern template.

10 Mar 2010

Today we are creating a sleeve pattern for a turtleneck made of knitwear.

Here on the site, I give it in a simple way:

1. Lay out the length of the sleeve on paper from point O downwards. This line is the middle of the sleeve. Draw a perpendicular to this line. This turned out to be the bottom of the sleeve.

2. At the bottom of the sleeve, set aside the wrist circumference + 2 cm. On both sides of the midline, half the size.

3. Measure the length of the armhole (the cut where the sleeve is sewn) on the front and back patterns. We divide the resulting result by 3 and (to construct a sleeve for knitted items) subtract another 2. The result of the calculations is plotted from point O down along the line of the middle of the sleeve. We draw a perpendicular.

4. On both sides of the midline, set aside half the shoulder circumference (for a fitted sleeve). If you're not sure you want a fitted sleeve, you can add 2cm on each side for a loose fit.

5. We connect the resulting points with point O. We divide the resulting lines into 4 equal parts: in half and in half again. Look at the picture, the cuff line of the sleeve smoothly passes 2 cm below the first notch, through the second notch, 1.5 cm above the third notch, through point O, 1.5 cm above the fourth notch, through the fifth and 1 cm below the sixth serifs.

6. Label the front and back of the sleeve to avoid confusion.

7. Point O is the middle point of the sleeve. When sewing, it must be aligned with the shoulder.

The sleeve pattern is ready!

Of course, when sewing from knitwear, you need to take into account the degree of stretch, the direction of knitting, etc., but you can’t tell everything in the article.

The single-seam sleeve pattern discussed below is used for various types of clothing - blouses, dresses, jackets, coats.

Most often used for jackets, men's jackets and outerwear.

When starting to create a sleeve pattern, you need the following:

DR – sleeve length = 58 cm

DL – length to elbow = 33 cm

OK – hand circumference = 22 cm

OR – arm circumference = 27 cm

L pr.P. – shelf armhole length = 21 cm

L pr.S. – back armhole length = 20 cm

Free-fitting (SF) increments to the OP measure

Characteristics of sleeves	Amount of increase, cm
	Dress	Jacket	Coat
Tight-fitting	3-4	4-4,5	5-7
Narrow	4-6	5,5-7,5	7-9
Average	6-8	7,5-9,5	9,5-12
Advanced	8-10	9,5-11,5	12-14
Wide	10-12	11,5-13,5	14,5-17

The sleeve cap must correspond to the size and shape of the armhole of the product.

To correctly pair the sleeve cap with the armhole, it is necessary to measure the length of the armhole according to the bodice pattern of the product and calculate its vertical diameter (VD av) - the height of the armhole.

To determine the height of the product's armhole (VD cp), you must:

• or measure from the bodice pattern the height of the back armhole VPrS = 17.5 cm and the height of the front armhole VPrP = 16 cm, as shown in Fig. 1. These two quantities are summed and divided in half.

VD av = (VPrS + VPrP) / 2 = (17.5 cm + 16 cm) / 2 = 16.75 cm

• or if the drawing of the back and shelf is built side by side, then connect the finally adjusted shoulder points of the back and shelf with a straight line. Then divide it in half, and from the division point lower the perpendicular to the real line of the armhole (Fig. 1).

To determine the height of the collar (VO k) of a set-in sleeve, it is necessary to subtract the coefficient K from the armhole height (VD av), which depends on the size:

a) up to size 48 K = 2.5 cm

b) for sizes 48-50 K = 2 cm

c) for sizes 52-54 K = 1.5 cm

d) for sizes 56 and more K = 1 cm

Or the height of the sleeve cap is equal to 1/3 of the length of the back and front armhole: VO k = 1/3 (L pr.S + L pr.P.)

Constructing a single-seam sleeve pattern

1. Draw a vertical line on which to mark the length of the sleeve: OH = DR measurement + shoulder pad height (if any) = 58 cm + 1.5 cm = 59.5 cm.

2. Length to the elbow line: OL = DL measurement + shoulder pad height (if any) = 33 cm + 1.5 cm = 34.5 cm.

3. Height of the sleeve hem (VO k): OG = VD avg - K (coefficient) = 16.75 cm – 2.5 cm = 14.25 cm.

Draw a horizontal line through G - the axillary line.

4. From point G to the right and left, set aside the width of the sleeve: GG 1 = GG 2 = 1/2 (measurement OR + CO) = 1/2 (27 cm + 5 cm) = 16 cm.

For tight-fitting, narrow and medium-width sleeves, it is necessary to build an elbow dart.

5. Construction of the sleeve cap

Connect straight lines O to G 1 and O to G 2. Divide the resulting segments into 4 parts.

From the obtained points, draw perpendiculars to the segments OG 1 and OG 2:

• O 1 - inward 1.3 cm;
• O 2 - outward 0.5 cm;
• O 3 - outward 1.9 cm;
• O 4 - 1 cm inward;
• O 5 - outward 0.6 cm;
• O 6 - outward 1.6 cm;

Form the sleeve cap from point G 1 through the points on the perpendiculars to G 2.

6. Displacement of the middle of the narrow sleeve at the bottom to the left: HH 1 = 1-1.5-2 cm.

7. Width of the front half at the bottom: H 1 H 2 = 1/2 (OK + CO) – 1 = 1/2 (22 cm + 2 cm) – 1 cm = 11 cm.

8. Width of the back half at the bottom: H 1 H 3 = 1/2 (OK + CO) + 1 = 1/2 (22 cm + 2 cm) + 1 cm = 13 cm.

9. Notch along the elbow line of the front cut: L 1 L 2 = 1-1.5 cm.

10. To design the elbow section, connect the straight line G 2 with H 3, then from the point L 3 obtained on the elbow line, form the convexity of the elbow section outward: L 3 L 4 = 1-1.5 cm.

In wide sleeves, the convexity at the elbow may be small (0.5-0.7 cm) or absent altogether.

11. Extend the elbow cut down by the amount of the fit plus 0.5-0.7 cm (adjustment amount):

• for well-shrinking fabric H 3 H 4 = 2-3 cm + 0.5-0.7 cm;

• for poorly ironed fabric H 3 H 4 = 1-1.5 cm + 0.5-0.7 cm.

If a dart 6-8 cm long and 2-2.5 cm deep is built along the elbow line, then the elbow section at the bottom is extended to a dart depth of 2-2.5 cm plus a 0.5 cm fit around the dart, then the segment H 3 H 4 = 2 .5-3 cm.

12. Draw a smooth line for the bottom of the sleeve through points H 2 and H 4 with a right angle at point H 4.

Sleeve fit

The sleeve, sewn into the armhole, should have a good fit and match the circumference of the arm. In order for the result to be satisfactory, the length of the sleeve cap must exceed the length of the armhole of the product by the amount of fit.

The fit of the sleeve is distributed in the upper part of the sleeve, in the lower part of the sleeve the fit is minimal, there is no need to give shape and volume to the sleeve, it is important that the sleeve is located in the armhole without tension. The division of the sleeve cap into upper and lower parts determines the location of the control marks, and the fit of the sleeve is distributed between these marks.

Control marks for armhole and sleeve cap

To ensure correct connection of the sleeve with the armhole of the product, control marks are placed as follows:

• on the front armhole line - at point O 6;
• on the back armhole line - at point O 2.

Measure the length of the lower section of the front armhole to point O 6 and set this value along the piping line of the front part of the sleeve from point G 1. Place a control sign.

Measure the length of the lower section of the back armhole to point O 2 and set this value along the piping line of the front part of the sleeve from point G 2. Place a control sign.

Determining the size of the fit by the sleeve edge

Using a measuring tape or flexible ruler, holding it on the edge, measure the length of the cut of the front and back of the garment.

Set aside from point G 1 along the edge line of the front part of the sleeve the length of the entire front armhole. The resulting point will be slightly to the left of the midline of the sleeve.

Similarly, transfer the length of the back armhole to the back of the hem from point G 2. The resulting point will be to the right of the midline of the sleeve.

The gap between these points is the fit along the sleeve edge. It is divided in half - the point in the middle of this section will be a control sign for connecting the sleeve with the armhole in the area of ​​the shoulder seam.

The resulting fit value is compared with the fit rate calculated from the table for a specific fabric.

Sleeve fit standards for various fabrics

No.	Types of fabrics offered	landing rate
	Woolen, suiting fabrics with synthetic fibers more than 30%; synthetic silks; fine natural silks
	Woolen, suiting fabrics with synthetic fibers from 15-30%; dense silk fabrics; cotton thin fabrics (cambric, voile)
	Pure wool dress fabrics; silk suiting fabrics; cotton and linen
	Wool-blend dress fabrics; fine wool coats and suits; pure wool coat fine fabrics
	Coarse cloth woolen coat drapes; wool blend fine cloth drapes
	Soft pure wool fine cloth drapes

For example: the entire measured armhole of the front and back is equal to 21 cm + 20 cm = 41 cm. Then the size of the sleeve fit for woolen fabric is 41 cm x 0.08 = 4.3 cm.

If the fit along the sleeve edge is greater or less than recommended, then the sleeve needs to be adjusted.

Sleeve adjustment options

Changing sleeve width

Changing the sleeve width along the armpit line always leads to an increase or decrease in fit along the sleeve hem.

An example of increasing the sleeve width by 1.2 cm (Fig. 1)

2. Extend the axillary line 0.6 cm in each direction.

3. Pin the leftmost point of the sleeve pattern edging with a button to the expansion point along the axillary line of the back of the sleeve. Rotate the sleeve pattern until the cut edge of the sleeve pattern touches the cut line of the copied sleeve at the back control marks. Trace the contours of the sleeve pattern, fixing it in this position. Align the rim line.

To draw a longitudinal cut line for a sleeve, rotate the sleeve pattern until the longitudinal cut line of the sleeve pattern touches the bottom line of the copied sleeve. Trace the contours of the sleeve pattern, fixing it in this position, adjust the lines and elbow dart.

4. Repeat the process with the front of the sleeve (the dotted line indicates the lines of the original sleeve shape).

An example of reducing the sleeve width by 1.2 cm (Fig. 2)

1. Copy the sleeve pattern onto a sheet of paper.

2. Set aside 0.6 cm inward on each side of the axillary line.

3. Pin the sleeve pattern to the marked point on the armpit line and follow the directions given in the previous example.

Increasing or decreasing the sleeve fit

Below is shown how you can increase or decrease the size of the sleeve fit without changing its width.

To increase the height of the collar, cut the sleeve along the armpit line and cut the sleeve cap along the line of the middle of the sleeve. Turn the front and back parts of the sleeve cap upwards so that the cut of the sleeve expands by the required amount (Fig. 3).

To reduce the height of the collar, cut the sleeve along the armpit line, and cut the sleeve cap along the line of the middle of the sleeve. Turn the front and back parts of the sleeve cap downwards so that they overlap each other (Fig. 4).

The sleeves are voluminous at the top and narrow at the bottom.

You will need:

ready-made blouse, cotton fabric, knitted fabric, pattern paper, ruler, thread (Coats), paper and fabric scissors, tape, tailor's pins, measuring tape, pencil.

Step 1

Pull out the sleeve from the blouse, undo the seams of the sleeve. Shorten the sleeve to a length of approx. 16 cm from the armhole. Transfer the sleeve pattern onto paper.

Step 2

From the highest point on the sleeve hem, measure 5 cm to the right and left and place dots. From these points, draw straight lines down to the bottom of the sleeve.

Step 3

Along the drawn lines, make cuts close to the bottom edge of the sleeve. At the top, fix the middle part of the pattern on paper. Move the side parts of the pattern to the sides by 7 cm and secure.

Step 4

Raise the highest point on the sleeve cap by 3.5 cm, and draw a new sleeve cap with a smooth line. Place marks at the points where the new line touches the old edging. There will be an assembly in the area between the marks. Connect the extreme points of the armhole with a straight line. Perpendicular to the resulting line, draw the side sections of the sleeve, then draw the bottom line. Using the finished fabric pattern, cut out symmetrically 2 sleeve pieces with 1 cm wide allowances along all cuts.

Step 5

Gather the sleeve piping between the marks (see step 4) to the length of the old piping, the lower sections to a length of 28 cm. Cut out 2 squares from the knitted fabric with a side of 30 cm, allowances are already included. Sew the upper edges of the knitted parts to the gathered lower edges of the upper parts of the sleeves. Sew seams on the sleeves. Iron the lower edges of the sleeves on the wrong side to a width of 1 cm and stitch. Pin the sleeves to the armhole sections and sew in.

Perfect work:

How to make bell sleeves

• Cut the sleeve from the hem to the bottom.
• From a suitable fabric, cut out 2 triangles with allowances: height = sleeve length, bottom side = 30 cm.
• On the triangles, hem the bottom.
• Sew the wedges to the sleeves and overcast the seam allowances.

: Master Class

How to make Biedermeier sleeves

• At a distance of approx. 25 cm above the cuff, measure the width of the sleeve.
• Draw a rectangle on paper (one side = double width, other side = 50 cm).
• Cut out 2 rectangles with allowances.
• Sew seams on the sleeve parts.
• Gather the upper and lower sections to the width of the sleeves, iron the allowances to the wrong side.
• Pin the details to the sleeves, stitch at the top and bottom.

I, like, in principle, any other girl, really love beautiful outfits, and I also really like to do handicrafts. Therefore, I often solve the issue of replenishing my wardrobe with fashionable new things not by purchasing, but by sewing things.

It’s so wonderful when your dress or blouse is created just for you, and you know for sure that, firstly, the item fits perfectly, because it was sewn specifically according to your marks, and secondly, you are sure that you will not see such an outfit anywhere else. on whom more.

I sew mostly myself, because always resorting to the services of tailors is not a cheap pleasure. However, this used to be a problem for me, not the sewing itself, but the cutting.

Today, the combination of words “ cutting and sewing“has become something familiar and indivisible. But many amateur seamstresses, including myself, can’t stand the first part.

And there are two ways out of this situation: either use ready-made patterns from magazines, or figure it out and learn how to cut it yourself. Previously, the most problematic moment for me was creating sleeves - that part of the product that is quite difficult to build without a lot of measurements and calculations. But just a few months ago everything changed.

And a tailor I knew helped me with this, who told me about one cunning trick.

Editorial "So simple!" I have prepared a simple way for you, how to quickly create a pattern set-in sleeves without formulas and calculations.

Simple sleeve pattern

The characteristics of the human body make it possible to design a sleeve by measuring only the palm. To create a sleeve pattern, try using this trick. It is exactly for those whose soul sings and whose hands don’t hesitate!

And for lovers of stylish looks, I suggest you familiarize yourself with a small a selection of things in the most fashionable color, according to the Pantone Color Institute - . After all, in order to have a desire to sew something beautiful, inspiration is simply necessary!

And for those who still don’t want to bother creating various kinds of patterns, I suggest you familiarize yourself with the finished one. Having seen its style, you will immediately be inspired by the idea of ​​sewing the same one for yourself! In addition, such a dress can be worn in both warm and cold seasons: it all depends on the choice of fabric.

As you see, build a sleeve, without attending cutting and sewing courses, is quite possible. After all, even complex, at first glance, things may well turn out to be very simple to manufacture.