Calculation of knitting armholes with knitting needles. Beautiful armhole knitting methods

A set-in sleeve with a rounded shape is the most common type of sleeve in knitted products. Correctly calculate the rounding of the sleeve and armhole, perhaps the most important thing in any related model. For more information on how to build a sleeve pattern and calculate all increases and decreases, you have already read in the previous article. Today we will tell you how to make beautiful and smooth decreases for the armhole of a set-in sleeve .

As a rule, rounded armholes are made on classic models with a round neck and slightly sloping shoulders. For knitting sleeves with knitting needles and a rounded armhole, it is enough to master fastening and decreasing loops.

Armhole, front and back measurements:

The front and back armholes can be either the same or slightly deeper in front.
- The armhole must be the same front and back. After the armhole is completed, reductions are made for the sleeves.
- In this case, the line of the shoulder can be either straight or slightly sloping or rounded.

How to calculate decrease stitches

To calculate the number of reduced loops for the front and back armholes:

a) subtract from the total number of loops the loops that fall on the neck and shoulders,

b) divide by 2 the resulting number of loops, as a result you will get the number of loops that need to be removed to form a floodplain on both sides,

c) in the first row close 3-4 loops at once, then in every second row 1 loop 2 times, then close 1 loop until the desired number of loops remains.

For knitting sleeves:

For the armhole, perform the same decreases as in point c). Then round off the top of the sleeve. To do this, decrease in every second row 1 or 2 loops until a few loops remain.

To form an armhole, it is necessary to both decrease the loops and close them. Bind off at the beginning of the row. The reduction of loops modeling the armhole can be performed along the edges or inside the row, due to this a decorative effect is achieved - a thin side with a slope to the right or left.

When modeling an armhole, it is necessary to close and reduce a certain number of loops

The loops should be closed at the beginning of the row, the reductions that form the armhole should be performed inside the row or along the edges. This creates a decorative effect (e.g. edging to the left or right).

How to bind off the loops at the beginning of the armhole

On the front side of the product, close the first loops (the number of loops is indicated in the description of the work). Remove 1 loop without knitting, knit the next one along the pattern and pull it through the removed one. Continue knitting in the pattern, after finishing the row, turn the work. On the wrong side, close the loops in the same way. (Figure 1.)

Increasing stitches with knitting needles inside the row on the right

Dec 1-2 sts after 2 or 3 end sts to complete armhole. On the right side of the work (at the beginning of the row), knit 2 - 3 loops in the pattern and then 2 - 3 loops together with a tilt to the left. To do this, remove the loop as in knitting without knitting, 1 person, stretch the front through the removed loop. (Fig 2.)

Decrease stitches with knitting needles inside the row on the left

On the front side of the work (at the end of the row), knit according to the pattern up to 4 - 5 last loops. Next, knit 2 - 3 loops together with facial ones, then knit the last 2 -3 loops in the pattern. (Figure 3.)

Decrease along the edge of the canvas

This method of decreasing loops is very convenient when knitting the neck and armholes of the product.

Having knitted the row to the end, do not knit the last two loops.

Insert the right needle into two loops behind the back wall and knit with the front.

Another smooth way

Let's say on both sides we need to close the loops of the armhole in this order: first 4 loops, then in every 2nd row: 3 loops, 2 loops, 1 loop.

For this, the groups of loops, (except for the first of 4 loops), are closed in parts: 1 + 2, 1 + 1, 1.

The first part - 1 loop closes at the end of the row when knitting 2 loops together with the front, the remaining loops - at the beginning of the next row. Well, now in more detail:

1. From the front side at the beginning of the row, we close, as the pattern shows, a group of 4 loops, then we knit the remaining loops to the end of the row.

2. From the wrong side at the beginning of the row, we also close 4 loops, knit a row and at the end of its last 2 loops (edge and previous) we knit together with the front loop - this is how we close 1 of the 3 loops necessary for closing.

3. On the front side, close 2 more loops. At the end of the front row, we knit the last 2 loops together with the front one.

4. From the wrong side at the beginning of the row, we close 2 loops - the closing of groups of 3 loops in the armholes is completed. At the end of the same row, we knit the last 2 loops together with the front one.

5. On the front side, we close 1 loop, at the end of this row we knit the last 2 loops together with the front one.

6. On the wrong side, we close 1 loop - the closing of groups of 2 loops is completed. At the end of the row, we knit the last 2 loops together with the front one.

7. From the front side at the beginning of the row, we no longer close the loops, but at the end, as usual, we knit 2 loops together with the front. All necessary loops are closed!

Closing hinges without "steps"

Suppose that to form an armhole line, you need to close on each side of the part in every 2nd row 1 time 5 loops, 1 time 3 loops, 1 time 2 loops and 1 time 1 loop.

1. Knit the piece to where the armhole line begins to form.

2.From the front side of the work, begin to form the right armhole. Bind off 5 sts and work to end of row.

3.From the wrong side of the work, bind off 5 loops from the wrong side and knit to the end of the row, except for the very last loop.

4. Remove the last loop from the left needle to the right, without knitting, the thread before work.

5. From the front side of the work, remove, without knitting, the 1st and 2nd loops.

6. Pull the first loop through the second, thus closing one loop of the three required. Cast off 2 more sts as usual and work to end of row, except for the very last st.

7. From the wrong side of the work, repeat steps 5 and 6.

8. From the front and from the wrong side of the work, cast off 2 loops each, applying the rules described in steps 4.5.6.

9. Instead of closing 1 loop, the technique of knitting two loops is used along with a slope to the right on the right side of the part and with a slope to the left on the left side of the part at a distance of one or two loops from the edge.

Armhole tying method

It is carried out as follows: a set of loops on the front side along the edge of the entire armhole, turn the product to the wrong side. side. 1 row is knitted from the inside (it forms the edge with the simultaneous closing of the loops): knit 2, remove 2 loops separately as facial ones, knit these 2 loops together behind the back wall, remove all 3 resulting loops from the right knitting needle back to the left. repeat first until the last 3 loops remain, then knit 1, knit 2 together, thread through the first. tighten the thread. at first it is not clear what is happening, but after 10-12 loops everything becomes clear! the result - it looks like a lace of three loops is sewn with a piping, but in fact nothing is sewn on, and the edge is neat and tight. I noticed that foreign colleagues never crochet the edges, but use this method. suitable for armholes, necklines and even front slats.

/ 12.12.2015 at 21:31

Greetings, friends!

Today's article is devoted to a narrow but relevant topic from the category of technology for processing knitted products, namely, we will look at how to draw an armhole line by decreasing loops for this. Beginning knitters, as a rule, do not bother with an armhole when they start creating their first knitwear. Fortunately, the soft and elastic texture of the knitted fabric allows you to cut the sleeve in the armhole area simply in a straight line (Fig. 1), or knit a raglan sleeve, which is also not very difficult (Fig. 2).

Connecting a thing with a set-in sleeve is really not so simple in the sense that the sleeve must ideally “fit” into the armhole, and for this you already need to knit according to a more complex pattern and make some calculations. But if everything is done correctly, then any problem is not as complicated as it seems.

Let's look at decreasing stitches for the armhole with knitting needles in the case when you want to knit an elegant product with a set-in sleeve. Let's look at two main methods.

First way

Let's assume that you have a product pattern that suits you in size. Usually in such cases, all the details of the product begin to knit from the bottom. We knit exactly the detail of the back or front to the beginning of the armhole. Then we apply the knitted fabric to the pattern and use it to guide how many loops need to be closed. We begin to close the loops at the beginning of the row. For example, in order for the edge of the armhole to fit exactly along the pattern, you first need to close 3 loops, then 2, then 1, and then you may not even have to close right up to the shoulder line. Or you may still have to close 1 loop, but after 3 rows - it all depends on the shape of the armhole line on the pattern - you just need to check with it. Sometimes you have to close more loops: 4 or even 5 at the beginning, then gradually reduce. I repeat, it all depends on the pattern, and also on the thickness of the yarn and on the density of knitting.

It is clear that the loops need to be closed on both sides of the part symmetrically, and we close each time at the beginning of the row. Therefore: we knit, for example, the back - we closed 3 loops for the armhole for the first time at the beginning of the front row and knit the row to the end, then we turn the knitting and at the beginning of the wrong row we also close 3 loops. We continue - at the beginning of the front row we close 2 loops already, and close 2 loops at the beginning of the next purl row, and so on. I think everything is very simple and clear here. If we knit the shelves separately, then for the armhole on the left shelf we close the loops at the beginning of the front rows, and for the right shelf - at the beginning of the wrong ones.

And if suddenly you don’t have a pattern, or you don’t feel like messing with it, then we do it even easier. We just take our factory blouse, which fits well on you, and use it instead of a pattern. We apply knitting to the armhole line and focus on how many and where loops need to be closed.

Second way

This method is somewhat more complicated than the first. In it, the loops are not closed, but reduced by knitting 2 or 3 loops together. But at the same time, you can get a beautiful shaped line of decreasing loops, as on factory things:

Note: it makes sense to do such a shaped line of decreasing loops along the armhole line if this happens against the background facial surface. If your main pattern is more complex, then it is better to use the first method - just close the loops.

How to reduce loops along the armhole line using a hem line? We do this (a pattern, or a finished blouse instead of it will still be needed). According to the pattern, we determine how many centimeters you should remove as a result of the bending of the armhole. Suppose it is 6 cm. Further in its own way knitted details determine how many loops you have included in 6 cm - let 12 loops. Therefore, you need to decrease 12 loops. Then we divide: 12: 3 = 4. We got that it is necessary to decrease the loops by knitting 3 loops together, 4 times. For beauty, this can be done every 3 rows, or you can first after 3, then after 5 - to reduce the steepness of the bevel line (see photo 1). Moreover, if the armhole line is more curved, for example, in front, then we decrease 3 loops each. And on the back, this line is smoother - we decrease 2 loops. Accordingly, we make calculations.

Before decreasing the loops, it is advisable to close 2 or 3 loops on each side of the part at least once in order to get a kind of “serifs” and it was easier to sew on the sleeves later. Then, after 1 row, we begin to directly decrease the loops.

Consider how to decrease 3 loops. To decrease at the right edge we knit the details of the front at the beginning of the front row: 1 edge; 2 facial; then 3 together in this way: knit 2 loops together with the front one with a slope to the left, return the loop formed as a result of this to the left knitting needle, pick up the next loop with the right knitting needle from below under the back wall and stretch the re-shot loop through it (the loop going along the top should tilt to the right - photo 2). Next, we knit a row, as usual, and after 3 rows (or after 5 rows) at the beginning of the front row we do the same, and repeat this required number of times (in my example 4 times).

To reduce loops left edge we do the details like this. Not reaching the end of the front row by 6 loops, taking into account the edge, we knit: 3 loops together like this: remove the first loop, knit the next 2 together with the front one with a slope to the right and stretch them through the removed loop (the loop going along the top leans to the left), then 2 front loops and edge. We do the same through 3 rows (5 rows) at the end of the front row required number of times.

Decreasing 2 loops is much easier. Simply decreasing at the right edge, we knit through 3-5 rows not 3, but 2 loops together with the front one with a slope to the right, and decreasing at the left edge - 2 together with the front one with a slope to the left.

Here are 2 ways to decrease the loops for the armhole, we have considered in this article. As you can see, everything is simple. Here it will be a little more difficult with a sleeve, and we will talk about this in the next article.

When knitting the first third of the loops (6 loops, including the edge), close in 2 steps: at the beginning of the front row, close half the loops in a row (3 loops) and tie the row to the end. Knitting turn, close at the beginning of the row also 3 loops. At the beginning of the next (front) row, fasten the second half of the loops in a row (3 loops) and, having connected the row, fasten the same number of loops at the beginning of the wrong row. With a low knitting density, the first third of the loops has to be closed in 1 step.

The second third (6 loops) decrease one at the beginning and end of each front row: at the beginning of the row, remove the edge, knit the next loop with the front (regardless of the pattern) and stretch it through the edge. At the end of the same row, knit the edge and adjacent loops together from the wrong side. Purl rows knit without decreases.

Cut the last third (6 loops) in the same way as the second, but not in each front row, but after one row, i.e. after decreasing (in the front row), knit 3 rows without changes (purl, front, purl) and only then make another decrease.

Having knitted the lower parts of the armholes, continue knitting the back to the shoulders. If it is done with an elastic band, plaits and other “springy” patterns, then knit it without changes (in a straight line). In other cases, give the armholes a concave shape. To do this, it is enough to make 2-3 additions of 1 loop along the armholes, performing them at regular intervals (see the location of the plus signs in Fig. 173).

Calculation and knitting of the shoulders and neck of the back (Fig. 174). The shape of the neck depends on the model. In our example, after drawing constructive lines ( lath " under the neck"), the new neck line is located 2 cm below the main one, the upper edge of the lath ends 1 cm above the base (see working pattern).

Starting the calculation, connect the ends of the shoulders on the pattern with a straight line and lower the perpendiculars on it, which determine the width of the new neck (further, do all the calculations on the right half of the pattern).

Measure the width of the new neck (8 cm) and shoulder (12 cm) and determine the number of loops in these segments:
3 p. X 8 cm = 24 p. (half of the neck);
3 p. X 12 cm = 36 p. (shoulder).
Measure the new shoulder slope (it is slightly more than 3 cm) and count the number of edge loops in this value using the control sample, for example 7. The number of edge loops in the shoulder slope always corresponds to the number of groups into which the shoulder loops need to be divided for decreases. Therefore, there are 7 of them in this version.

Now you need to find out how many loops are included in each of the groups. To do this, the shoulder loops should be divided by the number of groups (or edge) :
36 p.: 7 \u003d 5 p. (1 p. in the remainder).
Add the remainder to the 1st group, counting from the end of the shoulder (if the remainder is greater than one, distribute it 1 loop to each of the groups located at the end of the shoulder). So, on the shoulder you need to reduce 1 time 6 loops and 6 times 5 loops.

Next, measure the height of the new neck (3 cm) and count the number of selvedges in this value - 7 (in our example, the height of the neck and the slope of the shoulder coincided in size). The number of edging in the height of the neck always corresponds to the number of groups into which the neck loops need to be divided for reduction.

Dividing the neck loops by the number of groups (or edging), we determine the number of loops in each group:
24 p. : 7 \u003d 3 p. (3 p. in the remainder).
Distribute the remainder in 1 loop to the first three groups, counting from the middle of the back. Therefore, along the neck of the back, you need to decrease 3 times 4 loops and 4 times 3 loops.

Apply the calculation results to the pattern (Fig. 175). Having knitted the back to the shoulders, finish knitting with the wrong side. Mark with colored thread the middle of the back and the width of the new neckline. Divide the knit in half. Transfer the left half to a spare knitting needle, and knit the right half along
the calculation just made. To do this, on the front side of the work, close 6 shoulder loops in a row and knit a row, leaving 4 neck loops untied at the end (put them on a strong cotton thread).

Knitting turn, remove the 1st loop, without knitting, and tie the wrong side of the row to the end. At the beginning of the front row, close 5 loops in a row, and at the end of the same row, leave 4 more loose loops. Now there are 8 loose loops on the thread. Continue knitting according to the calculation until all shoulder loops are closed. String the neck loops on a thread (they remain open). After that, cut off the working thread.

Next, knit the left half of the back. To do this, on the front side of the work, stepping back from the middle of the back 4 loops to the left (point A in Fig. 175), attach a working thread to the knitting and knit the front row to the end. Turn the work and at the beginning of the back row, make the 1st decrease on the shoulder (6 loops). Do all subsequent decreases in the same way as on the right half of the back, but only on the wrong side of the work of the neck loop it is more convenient to string on the same thread on which there are open loops of the right half).

How to knit a set-in sleeve

Perhaps, set-in sleeves of all varieties found in sewing can be knitted on knitting needles: long and. whether short; narrowed or, conversely, expanded downwards; straight (pipe-shaped) or in the form of a flashlight; with cuff or lapel and many others.

Sleeves can be made not only from the bottom up from the wrist (the most common way), but also to the side of the sleeve seam (transverse direction of knitting). You can also knit a set-in sleeve from top to bottom (from a high point of the eye), but this is not very convenient. ·

Let's get acquainted with knitting a set-in sleeve, narrowed down. knitting the sleeve before the start of the roll (Fig. 176).

Calculation and knitting of the sleeve before the start of the okat (Fig. 176). The calculation is faster to do for half the sleeve. Count the number of loops in the narrowest and widest parts of the sleeve:
3 p. X 1 0 cm = 30 p. (Pg = 3 p.);
3 p. x 1 8 cm = 54 p.
Determine the difference (in loops) between the wide and narrow parts of the sleeve:
54 p. - 30 p. = 24 p.
Measure the distance from the beginning of the expansion on the sleeve to the beginning of the eye (34 cm) and divide this number by 24 (difference in loops):
34 cm: 24 = 1.4 cm.
Count the number of edging in 1.4 cm, in our example there are 3, which corresponds to 6 rows. Therefore, to expand the sleeves, you need to add one loop in every 6th row. Let's see how best to do it.

Type the required number of loops on the needles (30 p. X 2 \u003d 60 p.), tie 4 cm with a garter stitch and go to the main pattern. Knit 2-4 rows and make the first addition: at the beginning of the front row, remove the hem and, having made a crochet (towards you), knit a row, at the end of it, before the hem, throw another crochet.

On the next purl row, knit the yarn overs behind the back wall. Continue knitting, making similar additions on both sides of the sleeve in every 6th row, until there are 108 loops on the needle (54 p. X 2 = 108 p.).

In order not to get lost in the count, each time mark with a colored thread or pin a pin to the row in which the addition was made. These marks will also come in handy when making the second sleeve, so do not remove them until you have knitted both sleeves.

Calculation and knitting of sleeves. To calculate the knitting of an okat, it is best to use a technique developed by practice. From whatever yarn and whatever number of knitting needles you knit, this technique gives fairly accurate results. Depending on the density of knitting, only the number of calculation digits changes: the looser the fabric, the fewer. Check out this easy calculation.

Divide the number of loops in segment A B (Fig. 177) into 3 equal parts (54 p.: 3 = 1 8 p.). If there is a remainder, then attach it to the 1st part. Next, divide the loops of each part into groups.

Divide the loops of the 1st part into threes and twos. Moreover, the first half into threes, the second - into twos (3 + 3 + 3 + 2 + 2 + 2 + 2 = 1 7), add the remainder to the first digit (3 + 1 = 4).

Divide the loops of the 2nd part into units (1 8 units).

Loops of the 3rd part - into triplets (3 + 3 + 3 + 3 + 3 + 3 = 1 8). If there is a remainder, add it to the first digit, counting from the high point of the circle (point O). Apply the results of the calculation to the pattern.

The calculation is ready. You can start knitting an eyelet.

At the beginning of the front row of the 1st part (point B), fasten 4 loops in a row and tie the row to the end. Turn the knitting and fasten 4 loops at the beginning of the purl row. Then continue to cast off as calculated at the beginning of each row (knit, purl) until you cut 18 sts on both sides of the sleeve.

The first third of the loops of the 2nd part (18 p.: 3 \u003d 6 p.), decrease 1 loop at the beginning and at the end of each front row. Cut the second third (6 loops) in the same way, but not in each front row, but after one. Decrease the last third (6 loops) in the same way as the first.

Fasten the loops of the 3rd part according to the calculation in exactly the same way as in the 1st part: either at the beginning of the front, then at the beginning of the back row. When 6 loops remain on the needle (of which 3 loops on the right side of the okata + 3 loops on the left), close them in a row.

The book describes elementary things very well - I studied from it.

When starting to knit a new sweater, each knitter, as a rule, already has an idea about appearance finished product. But you need to determine not only the style, yarn and patterns. It is extremely necessary to approach the issue of patterns very seriously.

Sleeves are the most important detail

After all, if the silhouette on paper is inaccurate, then the details will be very difficult to put together. As for the details themselves, there are almost never problems with the main canvases, but special attention should be paid to the sleeves.

Variety of models and techniques

There are a huge number of models knitted clothes With various form and knitting techniques.

And in this article, we will try to figure out what models of sleeves exist, how to knit a sleeve.

Sleeve shape

If we talk only about the shape of this part, then the sleeves can be both narrow and wide, both straight and flared, long and short. In general, there are a lot of options. But besides the form, the style of the product is also present. And it is on this style that it fully depends on how the finished sleeve should look. So, let's figure out what types of sleeves exist.

Sleeve models

Set-in (it is possible to use an understatement of the armhole);
sleeve "without an eyeline";
sleeve "with a small armhole";
sleeve "with shoulder strap";
"raglan";
« bat»;
"flashlight";
"kimono".

Despite the fact that all these styles are similar in structure, the knitting technique of each of them is quite specific. Therefore, I would like to dwell on the review of each model.

Set-in sleeve

This sleeve style can be knitted and crocheted. The main feature is the calculation of the order of decreasing the loops when knitting the sleeves and armholes of the main fabrics. For an accurate determination, first, a sample of the main pattern is knitted and the density of the loops is measured. After that, the pattern is transferred to graph paper and all calculations are made.

We knit a set-in sleeve with knitting needles, usually from below. Therefore, for this part of the work, you need to choose light straight knitting needles of the desired diameter. When the elastic is knitted to the desired height, the addition of loops begins. Here the calculations are much easier. It is enough to subtract the sum of the loops of the cast-on row from the number of loops at the beginning of the lambing of the sleeve. As for the frequency of additions. It is necessary to calculate, based on the density, the number of knitted rows and distribute additional loops evenly. On the armhole, decreases are made at the very beginning of the row.

Here is the simplest example of reductions:

first, 2 p .: decrease seven loops;
third, 4 p .: decrease five loops;
fifth, 8 p .: subtract one loop.

After all the reductions are made and the required number of rows are knitted, you need to tie an okat. As a rule, three loops are reduced from each edge three times. In the last row, all remaining loops are closed. Work is best done in an oversleeve.

This type of sleeve can be found in knitting quite often. The eyeline of this model is knitted straight, due to the fact that there is no armhole line. Addition calculations are made following the example of a stitching sleeve, and for proper joining, large parts are also knitted with even edges, before the neckline begins.

Sleeve with small armhole

The difference of this style is only that the depth of the armhole and the line of the eye are narrowed. The rest of the sleeve can be knitted according to the basic pattern.

Sleeve with epaulette

These sleeves are more often found in products with a pattern of ornaments. "Shoulder strap" betrays a certain completeness of the pattern itself and the product as a whole. The width of the "shoulder strap" directly depends on the chosen ornament. The difference between this model and the previous ones lies precisely in the presence of a “epaulette”, it is an addition to the details of the shelf and back. All calculations are no different from the above examples.

We knit this style of sleeve both from above and from below. If you start knitting from the bottom, then the principle here is the same as when creating a “set-in” sleeve. When the required length is knitted, the lowering of the loops begins. This is usually done through a row, knitting one loop out of two, before and after the edge loop.

When knitting "raglan" from above, it is better to choose, as a tool, circular knitting needles of the required diameter. The number of loops cast on from above should be a multiple of 6. You also need to take into account the presence of a collar in the product. If it is provided in the product, then it is worth starting knitting from above with it. If not, then increases along the raglan lines can be done from the very beginning. Knitting is distributed not by 4 knitting needles, but the 5th one is working.

Raglan sleeves, as a rule, make up one sixth of the total number of loops in the product, the third part is left for large details. Therefore, if the total amount of loops is not a multiple of six, the extra ones must be distributed between the details of the front and back. The addition of loops from above is done in all details at once. An example of a raglan report: purl stitch, yarn over, two knit loops, yarn over, purl stitch. It should be noted that the yarn over and purl are on the details of the front and back, and all other loops fall on the sleeve. When the armhole comes to an end, it should be knitted without increases and decreases (straight fabric). When the required length is reached, all loops are closed. It is better to do the work in oversleeves.

Pullovers with such sleeves are usually knitted from the bottom of the back and front. In rare cases, knitting begins with an elastic sleeve. If you start with large parts, then you need to knit a straight fabric before the start of the armhole. Additions at the beginning of the armhole do not have to be done immediately. You can dial the required number of loops at the beginning of one row and do the same in the next, and such an addition can be done in 2-3 times. When knitting a product “from the sleeve”, the sleeve is knitted like a stitch. Then they collect loops for large parts. The key feature of this style is the mirror image of the details. The loops are closed in the order they are cast. It is better to do the work in oversleeves.

Main Feature this kind of sleeve is to create a tight cuff. A tight cuff is necessary in order for the "flashlight" to keep its shape. The addition of loops in this case occurs evenly, and their total number at the end should exceed the initial set by three or even four times. Only in this case, the "flashlight" will turn out magnificent. The required number of loops is calculated based on the density of the thread. After all, if the thread is too soft, the sleeve will simply hang.

First you need to link a sample of work, taking into account the progress of the additions. It is better to mark the gains, this will help when working with the second “flashlight” and it is more convenient to do this with colored markers or pins. When making an okat, it is better to use a pattern, this minimizes errors in knitting, and the shape will turn out to be correct.

Also in the work it is necessary to take into account the fact that the edge of the armhole should turn out to be rounded. Depending on how the knitting of the sleeve proceeds, the roundings can be convex and concave. In the first case, usually, there is a sequential increase in loops. In the second case, the loops are reduced and closed in the reverse order (5th, 4th, 3rd, etc.). But besides this, you still need to take into account the height of the armhole itself, which should coincide with the height of the “flashlight” eyelet. It is better to do the work in oversleeves.

Kimono sleeve

This model is one of the simplest in terms of execution technique. She is also without lambing.

For a set of loops of the initial row, first determine the place of the beginning of the armhole. Then, in several steps, groups consisting of five or more loops are recruited. The number of receptions directly depends on the expected length of the sleeve. We knit on all loops until a height equal to the width of the sleeve is reached. Then the subtractions begin. Decreases should be done in the same way as additions, only in reverse order.

Another feature of products with kimono sleeves is V-neck necks. His knitting is usually started with increments. Increases are made to round off the transition of the armhole to the side seam. It is extremely rare that I knit this cutout in accordance with the desired depth.
And, based on this, the beginning of the sleeve is located in the very middle of the side seam, the addition of loops here is necessary to round off the place where the side seam passes into the armhole, and then into the seam of the sleeve. Add, usually, one loop in several rows.

That's not all existing models. In fact, each model of any product is unique. The above are just basic descriptions and notes.

Many knitters, especially those who are not very experienced, have difficulty when it comes to knitting armholes. Of course, when we knit a model from a magazine, the description says how to decrease the loops. But what if the model we are knitting is a product of our imagination and inspiration, or there is no description for this model? After reading this article, you will see that knitting armholes with knitting needles is not at all difficult. Here I will show you a simple circuit to calculate the decrease of loops for the armhole.

Methods for calculating loops for knitting armholes.

1. Firstly, you can knit the part in a straight line without making a decrease for armholes. You will get a model with a slightly lowered sleeve.
Get a model with a slightly lowered sleeve.

Such an armhole is good in products of a free silhouette. I also note that the sleeve will also not be difficult to knit, since it will not be necessary to knit an okat, the line of the okon of the sleeve will be straight, without bends, and you will just need to close all the loops of the sleeve. Here is an example of such a pattern.

2. Calculation of loops for knitting recessed armholes

First, we determine how many loops need to be reduced. As a rule, the width of the armhole is 4-6 cm. We calculate how many loops are contained in the number of centimeters we need. To do this, you just need to attach a ruler to the product and count the number of loops in the number of centimeters you need. We divide the resulting number of loops into 3 parts. If this number is not divisible without a remainder, then this remainder must be added to the first part of the loops, which is closer to the side seam.

It turns out 3 blocks of loops, which we close as follows:
1.
2.
3. The third part of the loops - we decrease one loop in every second row. Example: the number of loops that decrease for the armhole line is 11. Divide into 3 parts of 3, 4 and 4 loops. We close the first 4 loops of the first part, then in each second row we close 2 times 2 loops (the loops of the second part), then we close 3 times one loop (the loops of the first part).

Calculation of loops for knitting armholes of products with a high density of knitting.

It is used if the number of loops to be closed is more than 15. The scheme is similar to the one described above.

First, we determine how many loops need to be reduced. As a rule, the width of the armhole is 4-6 cm. We calculate how many loops are contained in the number of centimeters we need. To do this, we apply a ruler to the product and count the number of loops in the number of centimeters you need. We divide the resulting number of loops into 4 parts. If this number is not divisible without a remainder, then this remainder must be added to the first part of the loops, which is closer to the side seam.
It turns out 4 blocks of loops, which we close as follows:
1. We close the first part of the loops in one step.
2. We close the second part of the loops in 2 steps: we divide the loops into two parts and close them in every second row. If you again did not get an even number of loops, then remember the rule: add the remainder to the part that is closer to the side seam.
3. We close the third part of the loops in three steps: divide the number of loops by three. We close every third in every second row.
4. The fourth part of the loops - we decrease one loop in every second row. If, in the third part, one loop was also closed in every second row, but the loops of the fourth part must be reduced by one loop in every fourth row.

Example: for the line of the armhole, you need to close 25 loops. We divide this number into 4 parts, we get 6, 6, 6, 7 loops in the block. First, close 7 loops of the first block. Then we close the loops of the second block: in every second row we close 1 time 3 loops, then the second time also 3 loops. Then we close the loops of the third block: in every second row 3 times 2 loops. We close the loops of the fourth block 6 times, 1 loop in every second row.