Shoulder pads were used back in the 80s of the last century. True, at that time the products were of a rough design and resembled a form for a hockey player. Now the size and appearance of these "pads" have changed, they are almost invisible under a coat or jacket.

Not all women understand why shoulder pads are needed, which is a pity. After all, these small products help to create a more stylish image, giving along with clarity of lines, and they will help to correct the posture of its owner.

A little about the varieties of shoulder pads

Products may vary in shape, foam thickness and size. When choosing one or another thickness, you should rely on fashion trends, look at what silhouette is now popular. Both straight shoulders and sloping, as well as sloping lines can be in fashion. Soft "pillows" on the shoulders will help to make the outfit an actual style. Shoulder width and sleeve cut also play an important role in choosing linings. Some models require raglan shoulder pads, while others require regular pads.

How to make shoulder pads with your own hands?

If you could not buy linings of the required size and shape in the store, you can always sew the “cushions” yourself.

For work you will need:

• scissors;
• foam rubber, thickness not less than 1.2 cm;
• sewing machine;
• fabric for covering the product;
• pencil and ruler.

The foam rubber needs to be laid out on the table and draw triangular-shaped linings on it. Their number will depend on the height of the shoulders. If they are straight, then you can make two-layer "pillows", and if sloping, then 3 layers are needed. The parameters of the foam triangles will be as follows: 3 by 6, 10 by 17, 5 by 10.

Now proceed to the pattern of the shoulder pad so that the middle remains intact. Apply an adhesive to the workpieces from the inside (sold in a specialized store). Now attach a large one to the smallest workpiece, slightly stretching it with handles.

Next, bend the workpiece so that the thin edges are connected, secure the entire structure with a pin. Let the product dry for at least 3 hours, during which time the glue will dry, and the foam rubber will shrink and take the correct shape.

When the time is up, the lining will be ready. For beauty, it can be covered with a cloth, and it is allowed to do this only on one side, the one that will be in contact with the skin. To do this, cut the fabric of the desired shape and stitch it to the foam using a machine with a zigzag seam.

If you are going to sew the product to a jacket or other thing, then attach the shoulder pad so that its upper middle point is aligned with the shoulder seam. In this case, align the thick edge along the armhole.

How to sew raglan shoulder pads with your own hands?

If almost every woman can sew an ordinary lining to her favorite thing, then raglan-shaped shoulder pads often cause difficulties. In fact, attaching such a “cushion” to the right place in the outfit is not so difficult. The main thing is to try once, and then everything will go like clockwork.

To make everything work out neatly and well, follow the simple instructions:

And a few more tips, if you are attaching a “cushion” in clothes with traditional-shaped shoulders, then pin the shoulder pad so that its bulge is located under the shoulder seam. If the garment has an extended shoulder, then fix the lining with a pin from the outside.

Sew the shoulder pad over the seam allowance.

When choosing shoulder pads for your jacket, give preference to products that do not extend beyond your shoulders. The only exception will be ladies with full hands. If you want to create a slightly raised silhouette, then choose thicker linings without changing their width.

If you want to prolong the life of the foam pads, then every time before washing, rip them off from the outfit. In order not to suffer with such manipulations, it is recommended to attach "pillows" to opaque clothes using buttons. Place them not on the sides of the corner, but exactly along the line of the shoulder, fastening on the inside seam.

Another way to fix the foam pad without using buttons and threads is to glue it. To do this, you can purchase a special Velcro or adhesive tape in the store.

Raglan shoulder pad pattern

The shoulder pad consists of two main layers - upper and lower. The pattern of the bottom layer is removed from the shoulder part of the sleeve of the coat pattern.

By increasing the pattern of the lower layer by the thickness of the shoulder pad, we get the pattern of the upper layer. We draw it as a separate detail and put it aside for now, it will be needed at the very end.

Making the bottom layer of the shoulder pad

We use a pattern bottom layer. We press two layers of synthetic winterizer into one with an iron, covering them with a wet iron. The layers of synthetic winterizer, slightly melting, are glued together into a thin plate 1-1.5 mm thick. From it we cut out the details of the shoulder pad.

We reduce the pattern along the outer edge by 0.7 cm. We cut a part from a padding polyester along it, put it on the already pressed parts and press again. We repeat again. As a result, each part consists of four layers with a gradual decrease in the thickness of the outer edge. The staggered arrangement of layers will prevent the shoulder pad from being printed on the front side of the product.

From coarse calico we cut the details of the shoulder pad with an allowance of 1 cm in all sections. We put the molded parts of the shoulder pad on them and quilt all the layers. We grind the shoulder sections, cut off the seam allowances up to 0.7 cm, iron. Stitch the seam with a zigzag to flatten it.

We connect the paper pattern of the shoulder pad along the shoulder line (shelf + back). We mark the lines along which the details have already been reduced (twice 0.7 cm each), and cut off the excess from the pattern. Then we mark the pattern, again reducing the details with a difference of 1 cm. We get three details.

We cut them out of the synthetic winterizer.

We sew all three parts manually to the bottom layer. Large first, then medium, and finally the smallest. Along the way, we close the tucks, combining their edges. Important! We do not tighten the stitches.

When all three layers are sewn, cover the shoulder pad with a damp iron. With an iron, carefully, trying not to press down the synthetic winterizer too much, we compress the layers. We do this so that we get a smooth transition from the edge to the center of the shoulder pad. Along the perimeter, we melt the layers more strongly, and in the center we act carefully to only slightly melt the top layer. As a result, the shoulder pad will turn out to be dense on top, but inside will remain soft, just like a bun with a crust.

Raglan shoulder pad final molding

In this article you will find tailor's tips for those learning to sew. The technology of grinding parts, how to properly rip the seams, how to make coat hangers with your own hands and others.

When opening seams:
a) Use a ripper knife (knife for cutting loops).
b) Cut stitch by stitch, not in a row, but sequentially, after several stitches of the seam. You need to cut the needle thread, then the bobbin thread can be easily pulled out.
c) If the threads are difficult to see on the fabric, rub them with a bar of soap that you use to cut the fabric, the stitches will become clearly visible.
d) To remove thread trimmings from the fabric, use adhesive tape (adhesive tape) or a small brush.
e) When ripping a seam, the ripper should not slide between the layers of fabric, as this can easily damage the threads of the fabric.
f) Iron the parts before re-sewing.

Sewing two parts with different cut shapes

When grinding parts, one of which is a straight cut, and the other is concave, use the following technique:
a) Sew along the allowance of the concave piece next to the seam line (fig. A).
b) Along the entire allowance, make notches that reach the line (but do not cut it). There should be enough notches so that the concave cut can be straightened in a straight line (Fig. B).
c) Fold the parts to be joined with the front sides inward so that the notched part is on top, pin it off and sew, the line on the allowance can serve as a guide (Fig. B).

Sometimes, the edges of the seam allowances form a ledge, visible from the front side of the finished product (when sewing thick fabrics). In this case, it is necessary to perform a stepped trimming of the allowances, that is, cut them to different widths.
The seam allowance that is closer to the right side of the product should be wider.
If the part of the product is processed with a gasket and adhesive cloth, then it is advisable to cut the gasket from the seam allowance to the stitching line, if this is not possible, then the allowance with the gasket should be made wider.

Grinding turning parts

In turning parts with corners, before turning them on the front side, the allowances in the corners should be cut off in order to get a clear, beautiful corner in the finished product. In this case, the following options are possible:
a) The corner is straight, the line goes along two sides of the corner, then the allowance is cut diagonally (Fig. B), when turning out, the remaining allowances fill the corner of the part without excess fabric.
b) The corner is straight, the line goes along one side of the corner, the other side of the corner is formed by a fold of fabric. In this case, the allowance in the corner is not cut off, because when the part is turned out, the allowance fills the corner without excess fabric, forming a clear line (Fig. B).
c) The corner is sharp, the line goes along two sides of the corner, then the allowances are cut to such a size that when turning out they fill the corner without excess fabric (Fig. B).

Sewing rounded parts

In rounded seams:
a) The allowances of the concave seams are notched up to the line (not reaching 0.1 cm) so that the lines are not damaged, then when turning out, the sections of the allowances move apart and lie flat, without tightening the fabric of the top of the product. If this is not done, then in the finished product the seam will be pulled together by a shorter cut of the seam allowance. The greater the curvature of the seam section, the closer the notches should be to each other (Fig. A).
b) The allowances of convex seams are cut out with cloves (not reaching 0.1 cm, so as not to damage the line) so that when turning out there is no excess fabric of the allowances, that is, the allowances on the wrong side lie flat, without waves visible from the front side of the product (Fig. B). It is convenient to do this with scissors with a serrated cutting edge.

How to sew on an elastic knit

Inexperienced tailors usually cut out an elastic trim from knitwear for processing cuts in the transverse direction of the fabric (weft direction). However, professionals in this case have adopted a direction of 5 degrees in relation to the duck, in which such materials are formed.

1. If there is no protractor, you can make a cardboard template to determine 5 ° to the duck. To do this, a segment equal to 15 cm is laid on the cardboard, its ends A and B are marked. From point B perpendicular to the segment AB, 1.5 cm is laid and the point C is marked. Connect A and C - this is the direction 5 ° to the line A B (Fig. . A). Cut out the ABC pattern.
2. Place the template on the canvas so that side AB coincides with the direction of the weft (Fig. B).
3. Draw an AC line on the canvas and continue it to the required length - this will be the direction of 5 degrees to the duck.
4. Mark and cut out strips of the required length and width. If necessary, you can connect their ends with a seam in the shared direction.

Production of a tucked cord with stuffing

An ordinary cord can be used as a stuffing for a tuck-out cord, which will greatly improve the appearance of the latter.

1. Choose the right size acrylic or cotton cord. Take its segment twice as long as the blank of the turned-out part, plus 5 cm.
2. Cut out a bias strip of fabric of the desired length and width so that it can be wrapped around the cord and at the same time allowances of 2.5 cm should remain on both sides.
3. Lay the cord on the strip from the front side in the middle so that it protrudes 2.5 cm at one of the ends of the strip. Sew the cord to the other end, strips with a cross stitch with a bartack.
4. Fold the strip so that the cord is inside it. Using the zipper foot, sew the strip as close to the cord as possible, applying slight tension as you sew.
5. Trim the allowance to 3 mm, and if the fabric is loose - up to 5 mm.
6. Firmly holding the end of the cord protruding from the fabric by 2.5 cm, slide the fabric, pulling it over the other part of the cord and thereby turning the stitched strip on the front side, and the cord, now its other part, is inside the tucked one.
7. Cut off excess cord.

How to make shoulder pads with your own hands

Shoulder pads are better to buy ready-made in the store. But sometimes, with some features of the figure or model of clothing, it is advisable to sew the shoulder pads with your own hands, individually. Consider one of the options for manufacturing shoulder pads.

1. Cut out two squares with a side of 15 cm from the bead, lining fabric or fabric of the product (depending on the required rigidity).
2. Cut out one square with a side of 10 cm from synthetic winterizer or other similar material, fold it diagonally and cut along the fold. To make more voluminous shoulder pads, you can use several of these squares, reducing them in layers, cutting them from the side of short sections.
3. Place a triangle of synthetic winterizer inside a square of fabric. Quilt parallel to the fold in several rows. During stitching, you need to keep the shoulder pad convex.
4. Sew over the cuts or lay a regular stitch, and then cut the fabric with scissors with serrated blades.
Triangular shoulder pads are suitable for set-in sleeves.
For raglan sleeves, kimonos, and dropped shoulders, raglan shoulder pads are required. They are worn on the shoulders like caps and hold a soft, rounded shape.

The second version of the shoulder pad for the set-in sleeve in the shape of the shoulder.
1. Fold the front and back patterns along the shoulder seam. Circle the armhole line between the front and back notches. The shoulder pad should end 1.3 cm short of the neck seam. Draw a shoulder seam line on the shoulder pad pattern. Label the front and back halves (Fig. A).
2. Cut out the base of the shoulder pad from the adhesive canvas or bead according to the pattern. Open the parts from the synthetic winterizer (or thin foam rubber) - four layers, cutting each layer along the rounded edge 2 cm narrower than the previous one. The thickness of the shoulder pad should be 1.3 cm. If a different thickness is required, then add or reduce the number of layers, trimming them accordingly.
3. Sweep layers of synthetic winterizer. While basting, keep the shoulder pad convex (Fig. B).
4. Put a padding pad on top of the pad and glue your adhesive canvas to the upper, widest one (or sew on the bead) (Fig. B).

The thickness of the shoulder pads can vary depending on the requirements of the fashion and the structure of the shoulders. If the shoulders are very sloping, add an additional one or even several layers of synthetic winterizer. If the shoulders are high and spicy, then the shoulder pads are made thinner, up to one layer, quilted with a bead. If one shoulder is higher than the other, then the thickness of the shoulder pads must also be different so that the shoulders are at the same level in the product.

When making a product, the shoulder pads must be ready before the first fitting, since the product must be tried on already with the shoulder pads that will be used in this product, otherwise you will not be able to find the right fit, as it is determined by the shape of the shoulders.

How to make a shoulder pad (raglan)

Raglan shoulder pads are cut in such a way as to ensure a smooth transition from the shoulder line to the sleeve. This can be done by making tucks on an elongated pattern of shoulder pads (oval shape) or by cutting them out of two parts and sewing along the shoulder line.

In cases where untested patterns are used for cutting expensive and easily damaged material (for example, leather), a preliminary layout of the model should be made. It is very convenient to use non-woven material for this purpose - not an adhesive cobweb or non-adhesive interlining. The details of the layout are connected by a machine basting line. They try on the layout, apply all the lines, but with which the cut will be changed. Next, the layout is ripped apart and the main material is cut according to its details.

Production of raglan shoulder pads.
In this case, it is more desirable to use a non-adhesive web than, for example, an old fabric. Because parts made of fabric, especially from an old, worn one, will definitely be deformed in the process of all manipulations: joining, trying on, ripping. Croy on these details may be incorrect.
Non-adhesive gossamer (as well as non-adhesive interlining) retains its shape and does not stretch in certain directions, so details from it can be used as patterns.

Now shoulder pads bear little resemblance to their counterparts from the eighties. In those days, jackets with shoulder pads looked more like hockey equipment than an elegant model. Now the shape and size of the shoulder pads have changed, they have become more delicate and inconspicuous, but nevertheless they have one thing in common: with their help, each model acquires clarity of lines, more style and improves the posture of its owner.

Shoulder pads come in a variety of shapes, sizes and thicknesses. They are chosen depending on which silhouette is in fashion: with straight wide or narrow sloping shoulders. Shoulder pads can also be used to compensate for minor posture defects.

The shape of the shoulder pad depends on the type of sleeve and on the width of the shoulder. For models with set-in sleeves with a high rim, regular shoulder pads (1) are used. Raglan shoulder pads (2) are suitable for heavily flared shoulders and sleeves with a low rim, as well as for raglan sleeves and all one-piece sleeves.

Regular shoulder pads

Such shoulder pads should be put into clothes so that the edge of the shoulder pad extends 1 cm onto the sleeve. If the rounded sides of the shoulder pad are not symmetrical, then the longer side of the rounding is turned towards the back. Pin the shoulder pad to the shoulder seam by inserting a pin from the right side (3). Sew the shoulder pad to the shoulder seam allowances. Attach the ends of the shoulder pad to the seam allowances for sewing in the sleeves using small thread jumpers (4).

Raglan shoulder pads

For models with regular shoulders, pin so that the bulge of the shoulder pad is under the shoulder seam and, accordingly, the sleeve hem.

On models with extended shoulders, pin the shoulder pads so that the rounding of the top seam of the sleeve and the shoulder seam falls on the bulge of the shoulder pad. Pin the shoulder pads to the shoulder seam by inserting a pin from the right side (5). Sew it to the shoulder seam allowances.

Shoulder pads of own production

If you are unable to purchase the right shoulder pads, follow our recommendations and sew the shoulder pads yourself.

Of the materials you will need: a rigid gasket, such as interlining or felt, for the liner - a volumenfliz gasket or batting. You can also use cotton for raglan shoulder pads.

REGULAR SHOULDER PADS ARE SEW SO...

According to scheme A, draw parts 1 and 2 in full size (cell dimensions 2x2 cm). From a stiff pad or felt, cut out two pieces according to these patterns. For the liner, cut out several parts 2 from the volumenfleeze or batting, with each next part being slightly smaller than the previous one along the rounded contour. Then pin 1 layer of the liner to part 1 so that the smaller part is on top. Align straight cuts.

Lastly pin piece 2 of stiff padding or felt (6). When stitching individual layers, hold the shoulder pad in an “arch” and pierce through all layers (7). If the shoulder pads are intended for an unlined dress, blouse or jacket, cover them with a piece of main or lining fabric. Cut out piece 1 from the main or lining fabric, folded in half with the fold aligned with the straight side of the piece.

Leave an allowance of approx. 2 cm. Wrap the padding around the shoulder pad and secure with pins (8). Lay a zigzag stitch close to the cut of the shoulder pad. Trim the seam allowance close to the stitch (9).

AND THIS IS HOW RAGLAN SHOULDER PADS ARE SEWED

Draw the details of pattern 1, 2 and 3 in full size (the dimensions of one cell are 2x2 cm). Cut out four parts 1 and 2, two parts 3 with a fold from a gasket or felt. Stitch parts 1 and 2 according to the reference marks with a zigzag stitch. Then sew the middle seam (10). Reinforce the shoulder pad with batting or cotton wool. Notch the lower part of the shoulder pad (part 3) along the line marked INCUT, and pin it to the shoulder pad from below, while sliding the edges of the notch over each other.

Keeping the shape of the shoulder pad, sew the pieces (11). If the shoulder pad needs to be tightened, cut out parts 1 and 2 from flaps of the main or lining fabric with 1 cm allowances in all sections. Cut out part 3 with 3 cm allowances in all sections. Sew parts 1 and 2 according to the control marks, then sew the middle seam. Pin the parts from the main or lining fabric with the wrong side to the corresponding parts of the shoulder pad, lay a fold on the bottom part over the notch. Stitch the cuts of the skin with a zigzag stitch. Trim the seam allowances close to the stitching.

How to make your own shoulder pads? Over the past few years, artists have been very persistent in offering shoulder pads for fashion items, not only for models with set-in sleeves, but also for raglan and one-piece sleeves. Is there a difference between them, what's new in their manufacturing technology? In the modern volumetric form of things, which is achieved by cutting, shoulder pads also play an important role. They help emphasize this or that shape of the shoulders. At the same time, shoulder pads are distinguished for set-in sleeves, for raglan sleeves, one-piece, and also gathered along the collar. Any of them are easy to do yourself. Shoulder pads for set-in sleeves From the main or lining fabric, cut along the oblique outer details of the shoulder pads in expanded form. Their value depends on the type and size of clothing (1). From batting or thin foam rubber, cut out 3-5 layers of the gasket: the lower and upper layers are the same in size, equal to half of the outer part, and the intermediate ones - each subsequent one is slightly smaller than the previous one (2). Lay the gasket parts one on top of the other, from largest to smallest (3), and cover with the second large part (4) on top. Sweep the folded parts of the gasket and put on the outer part (5). Fold the fabric in half, covering the pad. Fasten all layers of fabric with a pin at the tip of the shoulder pad. Sew the shoulder pad in the direction from the point to the fold, stepping back from the edge 0.7 cm (6). After you give the shoulder pad a convex shape, take the excess fabric on the bottom part into a tuck. Trim the cuts and process with a zigzag stitch. Iron the sections of the shoulder pad through a damp cloth (7). Lay the shoulder pads on the shoulders, as shown in the upper picture. In products made of dense fabrics (jacket, coat), the shoulder pad should protrude 1-1.5 cm beyond the seam. Fasten the shoulder pad in three corners with pins, and then sew from the wrong side of the garment to the seam allowances of the armhole and shoulder seams. Shoulder pads for gathered sleeves These inset shoulder pads are narrower supports that are typically inserted into a gathered or pleated sleeve sleeve. For this, hard material is used, for example, calico or starched calico. Fold a strip of fabric about 40 cm long and 10 cm wide along in half (do not iron the fold) and lay it with soft folds 2-3 cm wide, which then fasten with a longitudinal stitch, placing it closer to the inner cut (8). The length of the finished shoulder tab should not exceed 12 cm. The shoulder tab may not be laid in folds, but in the form of a visor. Sew the tab to the seam of the armhole, as shown in Figure 9. Shoulder pads for one-piece sleeves and raglan sleeves. foam rubber (12). Sew both parts of the upper outer piece (13). Iron the seam. Stitch the darts of the lower outer piece (14) and the gasket pieces (15). Lay the parts of the gasket on top of each other (from largest to smallest) and quilt a little - first in the middle, then with stitches; directed perpendicular to the oval slices. Insert spacer between upper and lower outer pieces (16, 17). Sweep all layers of the shoulder pad along the contour (18), process the sections with a zigzag stitch. If necessary, cover the shoulder pads with main or lining fabric. Sew the shoulder pads as shown in the figure: with the sharp end towards the sleeve.