Hello my Reader!
In Joint tailoring No. 10 “We sew backpacks for schoolchildren and students!” in all three versions of the backpacks, overhead bulky pockets are sewn on the front wall of the backpack.
Despite the fact that even a beginner can cope with the sequence of stitching the details of backpacks according to the finished description, the lack of experience and skills in processing some knots needs to be compensated for with more accurate tips and recommendations.
These are exactly the “little things” that are usually not talked about on videos or in master classes, since usually the main goal is to show and tell the technological sequence of stitching.
These “little things” are developed with experience, altering one knot several times, and provided that the craftswoman knows how to quickly draw conclusions and look for new solutions to the problem.
I want to save your nerves, time and give you the opportunity to get the most out of the process of sewing backpacks and bags for your loved ones.
Recently, varieties of voluminous patch pockets have become popular among manufacturers of bags and backpacks and handbag craftsmen. I am no exception.
There are several reasons for this:
- no need to cut the details of the walls and think about how to process the cuts so that it is neat so as not to stretch the frame;
- you do not have to select the fabric for turning by tone;
- not always mortise pockets to the place on the model or a certain fabric, and sometimes some additional detail is asked to the fore;
— a mortise pocket with a zipper and a large pocket differ in design and are used in different ways.
The processing technology of different pockets has its own characteristics, and this variety also has them.
It is not difficult to assemble the pocket itself, but its neat, symmetrical stitching to the front wall causes certain difficulties for many craftsmen at first.
1. When assembling a pocket, use the technology that produces as few thickenings as possible along the edge of the pocket's attachment to the main part of the product. The edge of the pocket that is sewn on should be as thin as possible.
2. Mark the shape of the pocket on the front wall with washable ink, crayon or pencil.
3. Place a center mark, at least the top and bottom edges, and even better, have them on all sides. The same marks should be on the prepared pocket. This will help not to stretch or bend the workpiece. Stitching each side, you will see where your marks should converge.
4. Start stitching a couple of centimeters to the left of the center of the top edge. When you reach the center of the bottom edge, finish the stitching with a bartack and return to the top, stitching the second side of the pocket.
5. When sewing a pocket, lay a line, stepping back from the edge by 1-2 mm.
Remember the main thing! Without experience and practice, there will be no experience and skills. Dreaming and putting it off for later, collecting it in a piggy bank and not using what you have accumulated, you will not learn how to sew bags and backpacks. All this will remain in dreams and unfulfilled desires that will tear your creative soul apart with regret and guilt.
How much more you will get when you sew a finished product with a piece of your soul with your own hands.
Wear it with pride or give it to a loved one.
Even with crooked lines, a slightly oblique pocket, your backpack will bring joy, delight from the fact that you CAN, overcame doubts. Take it and sew it yourself!
Join us and sew one of the three backpacks in the joint tailoring "We sew backpacks for schoolchildren and students!".
Sincerely, Vilena Malaya.
Earlier we published patterns of two types of voluminous briefcase pockets, today we offer another option.
Everything said earlier about briefcase pockets fully applies to this model. The briefcase pocket can be used wherever it is appropriate: on trousers, jackets, skirts, bags and, with appropriate processing, as a separate accessory.
This is a medium sized briefcase pocket pattern. If necessary, you can reduce or increase it yourself by proportionally changing all its parameters.
Sequence of processing pocket briefcase model 3:
- We process the upper cut of the pocket. We bend the allowance, iron it and lay the line. The cut itself is pre-overcast or folded by 0.5-0.7 cm.
- We grind the corners of the barrels from the wrong side.
- We iron the pocket along the line dividing the plane of the pocket from the side parts and the bottom part and lay a line along facial side.
- We iron the fold along the line of the middle of the fold and lay a line with internal side of the pocket. This stitch secures the crease.
- We notice the allowance for the hem of the edge of the pocket: the side and lower outer edge of the fold, iron it.
- The final stage - we adjust the pocket to the detail of the product.
Advice: As a variant of the processing sequence: you can first iron all the corners of the folds with an iron and only after that proceed to machine work. In this case, make sure that when sewing the barrels of the pocket, the corners of the folds match exactly.
The upper corners of the pocket can be fixed with buttons or just a bartack, or you can not fasten it.
This pocket can be either with or without a flap.
The pattern is given in actual size. with seam allowances.
Pocket dimensions:
pocket width 20 cm;
pocket height 22 cm
Seam allowances 1.5 cm.
Print the pattern sheets on the printer, connect them according to the diagram and cut them out.
Be sure to check the scale. On a printed sheet with a depicted square of 10x10 cm, the sides of 10 cm should correspond to exactly 10 centimeters.
Experiment and have fun. Good luck!
If you have not yet built a base pattern for yourself, you can use our
So I'm ready to create a master class! When I cut a new bag, the question always arises of what type of pockets to make. With the internal, everything is more and less clear, but there are a great many external, decorative ones. Today I will show you how to sew a voluminous briefcase pocket.
I apologize in advance for the quality of the photos - it's been cloudy for 2 weeks now and it's simply impossible to take pictures in natural light (((
Well, let's start!
We cut out a full-size valve for a pocket from paper, always taking into account the increase in stitching and stitching - I have 1.5 cm.
We make on paper (it’s convenient for me in a cage) a pattern of our future pocket. We take paper of any size (you can use a double notebook sheet). We mark the middle of the pocket on paper, then draw 2 parallel lines at a distance of the planned fold width. My crease will be 1.5 cm.
We lay future folds on paper.
We draw on top an increase for the hem of the pocket, about 1.5-2.5 cm.
We attach the valve and outline the width of the pocket. From the line of the side edge we make an increase, the amount depends on how deep the pocket you want. We draw and cut off the excess - I also have an increase of 1.5 cm.
We bend the top and side increases, apply the valve and see how long we want the pocket, draw and cut off the excess.
Cut corners equal to the depth of the pocket. In the process of sewing, this will help us lay out the pocket without any problems. I have 1.5 * 1.5 cm. The finished pattern looks like this:
Cut out the valve. If the fabric is loose or stretches, we glue it with interlining. We connect the parts as in the picture. We make notches on roundings.
We turn the valve inside out, sweep it (if it is a soft sliding fabric) or sew through a damp cloth, make stitching and fastening from above so that the details do not fidget.
We transfer the pattern to the fabric, making allowances for the seams on all sides except those marked. We draw lines of folds and top hem on the fabric. Overlay the sides and bottom.
Attached is our paper pattern. It should turn out like this:
We iron the top hem on the wrong side and iron the folds.
I usually iron the folds with one of these two options, which give the pocket volume. Today I use the first option.
We sew on at a distance of 1.5 cm. Lapel of the pocket. We iron. We lay our folds, fasten with pins and iron again.
According to the drawn markings, we iron the side hem and allowances. We iron the bottom allowance. The picture is clearer
We fold the part vertically in half face to face and make stitches along the fold line. Approximately 1.5-2 cm along the upper part and 1.5-2 + 1 cm along the lower part. allowance.
We pin the pocket to the main part and sew along the line of the lower fold.
We turn away, we look at what we got)) I laid a line on the sides so that the pocket stood rigidly, like a "briefcase". We pin with a small (1-2mm.) overlap in the lower part. We outline the sides of the pocket and a little bit the upper part. Like this:
Now you need to sew the pocket to the main fabric. To do this, unfold the side accordion of the pocket, the upper corner of the sidewall, bent along the allowance line, just falls into the drawn corner and sew 0.1 cm from the edge.
We detach the bottom of the pocket by 0.5 cm from the edge. We mark where we will have a valve, apply it to the markup with the front side and sew it 0.1 cm from the edge.
We bend the valve and scribble 0.5 from the edge. We iron everything through a damp cloth. Ready!
Such a pocket can be made on a button, Velcro or button. The decorative stitching of the pocket can be made double. And you can do without the central fold - then you get a simpler version. Lots of options!
Something like this)) This is my first master class, so if you have any questions, I will be happy to answer them!
Good mood to you all!)))
This is a trendy, sporty version of the patch pocket. Ordinary patch pockets can be easily converted into briefcase pockets. For rounded pockets, this effect is achieved by using two slats to match the shape of the pocket, and for rectangular pockets, by using one single piece for pleats or one rectangular strip of fabric.
Rounded briefcase pocket
On the paper pocket pattern, draw a placket line along the outer edge of the pocket and at a distance of approx. 4 cm from it (1). Remove the bar from the pocket part as a separate part. Cut out the pocket and the strap from the fabric with allowances for seams along all sections: cut out the pocket once, and the strap twice.
Overcast the allowance along the upper cut of the pocket and each strap, iron it inside out and topstitch. Overcast the allowance along the outer cut of one plank and iron it on the wrong side. Lay the planks face to face and grind the inside edges. Overcast seam allowances together (2).
Pin the bar with the raw outer cut to the pocket face to face. Stitch. Cut the seam allowances close to the stitching, notch in the fillet areas (3). Sweep the plank to the wrong side. Iron the edge and stitch to the edge. If desired, the edge can be stitched additionally at a greater distance, without grabbing the bar with the ironed outer edge.
Pin the pocket to the product and stitch only the bar lying below to the edge. If desired, the lower bar can be adjusted additionally at a greater distance. Sew the bottom bar on each side of the top edge along the inside seam to a length of approx. 3 cm. Then stitch the side edges of the pocket from the top edge to a length of approx. 3 cm exactly in the seam (4).
Rectangular briefcase pocket with one-piece pleat detail
The pattern design of this pocket is a little more complicated.
Transfer the main pocket pattern to a large sheet of paper. The lateral edges and the bottom edge form the line of the outer fold of the fold. At equal distances, which corresponds to the desired pleat width, draw two lines from the bottom and side edges of the pocket. The middle is the line of the inner fold of the fold.
Connect the vertices of the corners with a dotted line. Through the top of the inner corner at right angles to the dotted line, draw a line that intersects the line of the inner crease at two points. From these intersection points, draw straight lines parallel to the dotted line until they intersect with the outer (third) line (5). Cut out the corners along the drawn solid lines. The pattern is ready.
Cut out the pocket with allowances for seams along all sections. Overcast all cuts. Iron the allowance along the top edge of the pocket to the wrong side and topstitch. Sweep the allowances along the side and bottom edges to the wrong side. Iron (6).
Then iron the creases. To do this, first turn the side and bottom edges to the front side along the lines of the inner folds of the folds with the right side to the front side. Iron the folds. Then iron the folds to the wrong side along the lines of the outer folds (7).
To sew the corners of the pocket, spread out the folds again. Fold the pocket, combining first one side edge, then the other with the bottom edge (8). Stitch the corners along the marked seam lines. Notch the top of each corner close to the line (8a). Lay out the seam allowances. Re-fold the pocket folds along the fold lines. Sew the outer fold of the fold to the edge. Then pin the pocket to the product and stitch the bottom of the pleat to the edge. From the top edge, stitch the pocket along the inside fold line to a length of approx. 3 cm. Then stitch the upper edges of the fold to a length of approx. 8 cm (9).
Briefcase pocket with sewn-in straight detail for pleats
This is the easiest way to make a briefcase pocket from a regular rounded or rectangular pocket. For the pleated part, you will need a rectangular strip of fabric that is twice the width of the desired pleat width and a length equal to the length of the pocket side seams plus the length of the bottom pocket seam. Cut out the pocket and the detail for the folds with allowances for seams 1 cm wide along all sections.
Transfer the pocket alignment lines to the right side of the fabric with running stitches or draw these lines on the right side of the fabric using a “magic” tailor's chalk.
How to sew a briefcase pocket
Rectangular briefcase pocket
For details for folds, iron the allowance for one longitudinal section on the wrong side. Pin the other lengthwise cut of the pleat piece to the pocket from the top cut along one side cut, right side to the right side. Sew the pleat part to the width of the seam allowance (1 cm), not reaching 1 cm to the bottom edge of the pocket. Bartack at the beginning and end of the seam. Notch the seam allowance of the part for the pleats close to the last stitch of the stitch (1).
Pin the pleat piece from the notch to the bottom edge of the pocket and sew, starting the line exactly at the last stitch of the side seam and ending it, not reaching 1 cm to the corner. Bartack at the beginning and end of the seam. Notch the seam allowance of the part for the folds close to the last stitch of the stitch (2). Then stitch the part for the folds from the corner to the other side cut of the pocket.
Turn the pleat piece to the front. Iron the seam allowances onto the pocket. Sew the pleat piece along the stitching seams close to the seams. Tuck in the allowance for the upper edge of the pocket and the details for the folds. Then iron the one-piece facing along the entrance to the pocket to the wrong side and topstitch it to the edge. (3).
Pin the part for the folds to the product along the alignment lines, laying it in folds at the corners (4). Sew the side and bottom edges of the fold part to the edge. Pin the edges of the pocket and the edges of the pleat piece (5). Iron on. Sew the upper corners of the pocket in the form of triangles (6), grabbing the ends of the details for folds.
Rounded briefcase pocket
Iron the allowance along the top edge of the pocket inside out, tuck it in and topstitch. On a strip of fabric (bar), iron the allowance along one longitudinal section inside out. Pin the other longitudinal section of the strap to the pocket along the side and bottom sections face to face. Tuck the short sections of the strap at the top edge of the pocket. Sew the strap to the pocket. Cut the seam allowances close to the seam, notch in the fillet areas (7).
Turn the plank inside out. Sweep and iron the edges (8). If desired, topstitch the bar to the edge. Pin the edges of the plank to the product along the alignment lines and sew to the edge (9). Pin off the edges of the pocket and strap. Iron. Sew the side edges of the pocket from the top edge to the edge for a length of approx. 1 cm
Girls, have a nice day everyone!)))) I did the promised MK for my pocket-portfolio. My camera is working worse and worse, it's time to retire it, but I think the essence will be clear even with not very high-quality photos. The fabric is all streaked - I decided to recycle a piece for tildes, which I unsuccessfully managed to tint with tea. Do not disappear good.))))
Well, now read on.
We will need a pocket template made of whatman paper or cardboard. We start by measuring the length of the three sides of the pocket, placing a centimeter on the edge. I got 37 cm.
Croim. On the lining, trace the outline of the pocket and add allowances. The top edge of the pocket does not need an allowance. We also need to draw them. In general, it must be said that in these pockets the accuracy of the allowances is very important. Therefore, I made myself a template for allowances 1 cm wide out of cardboard. Now everything should match up to a millimeter.
We also circle the pocket on the main fabric, add a hem allowance along the top (I have 3 cm). On the sides we draw the same allowances as on the lining.
Cut out the top and lining. We cut the sidewall of the pocket: it is a rectangle. Its length is equal to the perimeter of the three sides of the pocket + 2 widths of the allowance; width - 2 widths of the sidewall of the pocket + 2 widths of the allowance. my pocket perimeter is 37 cm + 2 cm allowances, the total length of the rectangle is 39 cm. I want to make the sidewall of the pocket 2.5 cm wide, which means the width of the rectangle will be 2.5 cm x 2 and plus 2 cm. allowances. Total 7 cm. The rectangle turned out to be 39x7 cm.
Fold the rectangle lengthwise facing inward and stitch short sections exactly to the width of the allowance. We twist, straighten and iron.
We apply our rectangle to the front side of the pocket, aligning the short side with the top of the pocket (not the allowance, but the pocket itself) and aligning the cuts.
And we start pinning around the perimeter. In the roundings at the corners, cut the sidewall allowances to fit better.
Wrap the hem allowance on the sidewall and bend the centimeter up, as in the photo.
Put the lining on top of everything inside out and pin in several places.
Sew through all layers, strictly observing the width of the allowances.
Cut the allowances by half a centimeter and cut into rounds. Turn through the pocket hem allowance and iron. Get this result. View from the inside.
And from the face.
Sew the pocket hem allowance, I do not capture the sides, only the middle part of the pocket.
Bend the side panel to the wrong side and stitch to the edge at a distance of 1 mm.
From the face it will be like this.
And this is from the inside out. Everything is clean and tidy. You can sew the pocket in place.
On things we circle the place of sewing the pocket according to the template. Cross strokes mark the place of the beginning and end of the line.
And we pin the sidewall, strictly combining the edge with the stitching line.
If you strictly observed the width of the allowances, then everything should match up to a millimeter. I matched.))))
Sew to the edge at a distance of 1 mm. from the edge.
In the corner we scribble more slowly so that the line does not run away.
Straighten the side panel, placing it under the middle part of the pocket, and iron.
We get such a beautiful pocket. At this stage, you can make the bartacks in the corners through all the layers, but I don’t like them and therefore I don’t do them, it’s more convenient to use the pocket. And you can fix the corners by putting holnitens.
Now we sew the valve. Reinforce the upper part with interlining or dublerin, fold it face to face with the unreinforced bottom and draw the outline of the flap using our pocket template. The same rounding on the pocket and the valve will look harmonious, and the width will thus be the same.
Sew along the contour and trim the allowances. Turn out, straighten and iron. Cut the open cut to evenness.
Now fold the flap along the stitching line and secure the edge with pins along the fold so that the flap can be unfolded for further work with it. Why is it necessary? See how the slices have shifted relative to each other? if you do not bend it like that, then due to this displacement, the valve will bulge outward. At this stage, you can sew loops if the pocket closes with buttons.
Unfold the valve, cut off the excess along the pins, leaving only 1-1.5 cm and pin, aligning the cut with the pocket entrance.
Sew and cut the seam allowance to 3 mm.
Turn the valve back to the correct position. iron and stitch at a distance of 5 mm. from the edge. Don't forget the bartacks at the beginning and end of the stitch. The pocket is ready. You can put buttons or sew on buttons.
If you turn the pocket inside out, we will see that there is not a single open cut, everything is clean and tidy.
We love the finished result!
Good luck to everyone and warm, roomy and neat pockets!)))
