Flat collars.

This is one of the types turn-down collars.

Flat-lying collars are characterized by a small stand or its complete absence. This type of collar is mainly used in women's blouses and dresses, as well as in children's clothing, and can come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes.

The drawing of a flat-lying collar is built directly on the drawings of the front and back. First, we determine the model of the dress or blouse, adjust the neckline, i.e. if necessary, we deepen, expand or change the shape.

For convenience, at the time of construction, we close the chest tuck on the shelf, and on the back - the shoulder tuck.

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Then we put the patterns of the back and front on a clean sheet of paper, aligning the shoulder sections so that the points at the base of the neckline (A4 and B3) coincide, and the points at the ends of the shoulder lines (P1 and P5) overlap each other by 1 - 3 cm. The smaller the entry, the lower the height of the rack. With a larger entry, the rise of the rack increases.

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Outlining the outline neck, partially middle seams front and back, and armhole line.
Look at the drawing to get an idea of ​​which drawing lines are involved in the construction.
We remove the patterns of the back and front and continue building the collar itself on a sheet of paper, where we drew the outline.

Attachment line The collar should exactly follow the line of the neckline of the back and front.

collar width in the middle (distance ASh) and at the ends (B4K), the departure line (ShK), as well as the starting point for stitching (K) in the middle of the front is determined by the model of your dress or blouse, i.e. you yourself. The fly-off of the collar is formed by a smooth line connecting the points W and K.
In this case, it should be remembered that the departure line should approach the line of the middle of the back at a right angle.

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Important: When making patterns, you should know the following.
The template of the upper collar along the departure line should be 1-3 mm larger than the template of the lower collar. The thicker the fabric the greater the difference should be. This is done so that when turning the turn-down part from the rack top collar could freely go around the lower collar without puffs and deformations - this is the time. So that in the process of basting the stitching line does not look out from the side of the upper collar, i.e. for the formation of a perekant throughout the flight - these are two. And ultimately, to ensure a good collar fit, and hence the appearance of the entire product.
Therefore, first copy one part of the collar clearly along the line from the main drawing, this will be the collar. And then, on a separate sheet of paper, increase this pattern by adding the required value along the outer contour
This will be the top collar. See Fig.6
Fig6 Cut details.

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The share line basically always corresponds to the fold line. Why in the main? Because you can position the midline obliquely. And if you are sewing a product from a fabric with a pattern (a cage, a strip, a coupon, or just a large pattern), then you are guided by the need to match this pattern.
When copying on the pattern, it is necessary to put marks (notches) that determine the control points for connecting the collar with the neck at the level of the shoulder seam and the middle of the back.
The last step is to copy the collar pattern itself onto a separate sheet of paper. We will end up with two pieces of a cut with a fold. Upper and lower collar or collar.

Ready! You can start cutting. Don't forget to allow for seam allowances when cutting. It is customary to add 0.75 cm along the entire contour of the collar. If you are new to sewing or think that you do not have enough experience, make a pattern with allowances on the seams. In this case, you just have to grind the pattern on the fabric and cut along the stitching line.

After making a pattern, it's best to test it on an inexpensive piece of fabric to make sure it looks exactly the way you intended.

The departure line, and hence the shape of the collar, can have a wide variety of configurations. Figure 6 shows 4 types of flat-lying collars with different configurations of the departure line. You can complete this collection.

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We offer several options for flat collars as an example.
In this example, we deepened the neck somewhat.

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In the following example, we will expand the neck.

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And one more option, in which the starting point for stitching the collar is slightly offset from the center of the front. This option is used if, for example, a ruffle is sewn along the edge of the collar. Or if you intend to attach some kind of decoration (accessory) in the center of the neckline, such as a brooch, bow or flower, etc. Or if you just decided that - just your desire is enough.

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Having mastered the principle of construction, you can design any form of a flat-lying collar on this basis. Starting from school, sailor and ending with an unlimited number of fantasy collars.
Create and enjoy your creations.

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A collar is a functional and decorative element of clothing that borders the bottom of the neckline of shoulder garments. Its usual design is just a strip of fabric. Varieties consist of upper and lower parts, which are usually compacted from the inside. In addition to fabric, knitted, felt and leather, models are lace and knitted.

Before you sew a collar, you need to decide on the cut and style.

Collar types

• One-piece.
• Set-in.
• Removable.

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Basic styles of collars

• Rack.
• Shirt.
• Flat turndown.
• Raised turn-down.
• Shalevy.
• Jabot.
• Collar.
• Designer.

The most common are standard shirt collars on a one-piece or cut-off stand. Such a detail can become part of the patterns of both women's and men's shirts.

Collar tailoring

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Depending on the model and shape of the neckline, the pattern can be one, two or four parts. It is necessary to connect a part that has a fold with other parts of the cut so that its edges meet in the cut. The slit usually accompanies the clasp of the garment. Two parts are sewn from the inside out on three sides, and then turned inside out.

Before transferring the pattern to the fabric, it is recommended to measure the neck. This value should be equal to the length of the paper collar configuration (it is measured by the stitching cut), or exceed it by 0.5-1 cm. If necessary, the patterns are lengthened.

If a collar with a partial stand is sewn, the upper part is made slightly larger than the lower one in length and width - then the part will lie better.

Collar reinforcement

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Almost all fabric models of collars are reinforced from the inside with a special cushioning material. This gives strength to the edges of the collar and hides seam allowances that are sometimes noticeable. Gaskets are made of adhesive seal (for example, non-woven tape), rigid or lightweight materials, fabrics of intermediate density. The cut of the sealing layer must take into account the direction of the lobar thread of the model.

Features of working with a collar

• The reinforcing material is attached to the wrong side of the upper part if we are sewing a turn-down model. A sewn-in hard seal is attached to the necks of products made of light, thin fabrics using a slightly heated iron. Previously, the gasket must be swept to the wrong side of the upper part of the structure.
• If a turn-down collar is used, the seal is placed from the inside of the upper part - where the fold passes.
• The stand-up style is reinforced from the outside. In this case, the seal is cut out for the whole part and attached from the inside, along the fold. Adhesive pads in these models are used only to give density to the upper part, up to the fold line.
• The pattern of the seal usually corresponds to the configuration of the collar details. Gaskets from medium and low density material, as well as adhesive seals, are cut taking into account allowances. They are cut off after applying the line as close as possible to it. On dense pads, excess material is cut off immediately before stitching.

A simple version of the sewn-in collar is the "stand-up". The model on the bar with a lapel is called a collar collar. The bar is attached directly to the seam line of the cutout, around the entire circumference of the product. The sharp corners of the bar on which the incision is usually made can be rounded off.

A pattern of a model from a single piece with a fold is a rectangular canvas.

Processing technology

1. Cut out the part and seal.
2. Turn inside out the seam allowance of the neck of the inner part along the line along which the product will be sewn. Cut off excess, cutting to 6 mm.
3. Fold the product along the fold line inward facing. Make the spare edges of the outer part wider.
4. Cut the corners along the folding line diagonally.
5. Smooth out the seams at the ends of the plank. Wrap the seam edges, guiding them towards the inside of the model. Treat with an iron.
6. Sew the finished collar with the outer part to the neck.

Two-piece stand-up collar

The pattern of a model on a standing bar is made up of external and internal fragments. The ends can be connected in front or behind. In this case, the seal is cut according to the contours of the outer part. To avoid excessive density, excess corners are cut diagonally from the upper edge of the seal.

Bend the neck seam allowance inward along the bottom edge of the product diagonally. Trim excess material to 6 mm.

Align the top cuts of the workpiece and its ends face inward. Sew along the top edges.

Cut the seam, taking into account the stock of material for one more on the outer part.

In places where V-shaped bends are formed, incisions are made. Corners are removed diagonally.

Lay spare material inside the part. Machine stitch along the entire top.

Turn product right side out. Slightly move the top seam inward. Iron and sew to clothes.

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1. The classic model of the collar is a turn-down shirt on the stand. A pattern from a standard fabric for a shirt consists of two main parts and two parts of the supporting base. The stock in both cases is left in the amount of 0.8-1 cm.
2. The collar is not recommended to be raised above 1-1.5 cm above the bar. Its length in this case is equal to the length of the neck of the product itself.
3. An adhesive pad is used as a sealant. Seal patterns are one support part and one turn-down without stock.
4. If the drawings of the rack and base are combined into one configuration, the sewing process will be greatly simplified.

Processing technology

1. Align existing collar pieces with right sides facing inward.
2. Fold the fabric with pins in the corners so that the top part is a couple of millimeters larger than the bottom. This is necessary for a more accurate processing of the outer seam.
3. Go through machine stitch. The stitch size when approaching the corners should be 1.5 mm. After the line reaches the corner, put one stitch across - so the corner will become sharper.
4. In order for the outer seam to be made with high quality, the line is made not along the very border of the lining fabric, but at a distance of 1-1.5 mm from it.
5. Cut the corner stocks of material one above the other (cascade), stepping back 1 mm from the line.
6. Turn the model inside out by hand, without using any tools that can break through the corners. It is important to observe the symmetry of the ends.
7. Place machine stitches of equal size at the same distance from the edge.
8. Sew the bar, bending the allowance.
9. Pin the front side of the outer stand to the face of the bottom main piece. The line should go along the very border between the gasket and the supporting part.
10. In order for the curve of the model to take the shape of the neck, the fold is fixed and connected to the collar along the entire length.
11. On the inside, mark the border of the future plank. The length of this line should be equal to the length of the neck.
12. Attach the right side of the support piece to the wrong side of the shirt. Spare edges should lie on the face of the product. Connect the inner and outer parts of the bar.
13. Form a kink and steam the part.

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The flat turn-down collar lies completely on the shoulders of the product, without rising above them. An example of such a style is the sailor suit.

The model, which implies a front fastener, is one single piece. The back closure version consists of two pieces with excess material and two sealing pieces (no stock as standard).

Processing technology

1. Fasten the seal to the two upper parts of the base.
2. Connect all parts of the model, put a machine seam on the outer edges.
3. Trim allowances. At the place of bends around the entire perimeter of the pattern, make V-shaped cuts. Bevel spare edges and cut corners.
4. Smooth out the spare material to the bottom of the product.
5. Lay a line along the previously applied seam of the face of the lower part, grabbing the allowances.
6. Turn the collar and its corners to the front side.
7. You can manually roll the seam towards the bottom part. The model is processed with an iron.
8. Sew on the collar, inserting it between the garment and the inner lining.

Raised turn-down collar

Raised turn-down collar on a partial rack - a model, the lower part of which imitates a supporting part, and the upper part is folded back. At the back, the bar can be slightly raised. It is used when modeling coats, raincoats, jackets, jackets.

The stand of a raised turn-down collar is sewn to the collar, and not vice versa. The pattern consists of two parts of the upper collar and two parts of the lower supporting base. The lower collar and the upper strap are cut out in one copy.

Processing technology

1. Connect the bottom bar to the bottom of the base. Begin to lay the line from the center of the rack to the edges. In the process of sewing, the main material is pulled off with a free hand.
2. The second edge of the support also begins to be sewn from the center. Connect the bottom bar to the top of the model.
3. Cut out stocks. Reduce the size of the lower collar. To do this, connect the seams along which the rack was previously attached. Form the product so that it repeats the bend of the neck.
4. Cut off the excess on the edge of the lower collar (3-5 mm).
5. Place the pieces facing each other. The top part should be larger than the bottom.
6. Start sewing the model from the centers of the parts to the edges. Having brought the line to the corner, lift it with your free hand so that the stitches merge into an arc. Make sure that the corners are bent towards the lower collar part.
7. Transfer the seam to the lower part by 1-3 mm. The size of the roll increases along with an increase in the density of the fabric.
8. Sew the edges of the product. Connect the seams to the strips.
9. Form a collar and sew it into the product.

Collar in 5 minutes

A false collar is an independent detail of an outfit and an accessory. Sometimes it is a kind of jewelry. The model is not sewn into the product, its manufacture does not require special skills, and sometimes it does not need stitching (holes are made with an awl). It can be done even in 5 minutes.

It is made by cutting off the collar of an old shirt. A fastener in the form of a button or ribbon is attached to the part, in front or behind. Decorated with rhinestones and beads.

They are made according to the measurements of the neck from various types of fabric, as well as from felt or leather. The pattern of a turn-down product for a fastener to the top or to the bottom can be lengthened, making the collar dimensionless.

A few seasons ago, detachable collars of various models came into fashion. They can be separate from the thing with which they are combined, or attached to it with buttons or buttons. As a rule, according to the model, these are flat-lying collars or stand-up collars. With this piece of clothing you can decorate and update your favorite sweater, blouse or dress. ? Today I want to introduce you to the process of sewing a round, flat-lying faux fur collar.

For work, we need the following materials:

Artificial fur

Atlas

Interlining

Lace width no more than 5 cm

Small clasp or hook

This pattern is the basis of a flat-lying collar, you can change the width and shape of the collar if you wish. When you make a paper template, be sure to try it on and adjust it to fit around your neck. Make the neckline as you need it.

We cut out the top of the collar from faux fur. I want to note that fur always has a direction of the pile and it will be more convenient and beautiful if the direction of the pile coincides with the vertical line of the front of the collar, when laid out on the fabric, this is a shared line, i.e. directed along the fabric roll. In the photo, the direction of the lobar is shown by arrows.

We make 4 parts: 2 parts from fur (left and right collar) and 2 from satin fabric, respectively (you can take any suitable color, but not stretchy fabric). We retreat 1 cm from the edge of the template on all sides.

Now we need to glue all the details with interlining. Now there is a large selection of interlinings, choose not very tight, so that the collar does not stand with a stake, but is soft enough. In the photo, the interlining that I used is under the details of the collar. Our collar has a front and back, do not forget to mark them so as not to be confused in the future. I am guided in the direction of share. I remind you that the direction of the share is indicated by the arrows in the photo.

Another important point. I think that you will come across it in the process of working with fur. When connecting the front and back parts of the collar, the fur will need to be put with a pile inside and it will constantly move out. Therefore, by connecting separately the left and right parts with the front sides, first sweep them away.

Now stitch the details leaving the side of the neck open and then cut the fabric 0.5 cm from the edge, a little more in the rounded places so that the finished collar edge lies more evenly.

We turn both halves of our future collar inside out and lay a line along the front side of the lower parts of the collar close to the stitching line, grabbing the allowance that we cut off. We iron both halves. Next, you need to cut off that centimeter along the neck line, which we gave when cutting, since in this model the neck will be processed. If you want to make a collar with an inner seam around the neck, then leave this allowance. Connect the details of both halves along the neck with a stitch.

We combine the centers of the front collar. Now we will sew on lace, which must be stretchy, otherwise you will not be able to lay it out. The width of the lace should be at least 2 cm, the appearance is up to you. We measure the total length of the neck with a centimeter and add another 1 cm. Cut off the lace of the resulting length. Fold the lace right side up in half lengthwise and iron.

Then we turn the edges of the lace inside out and stitch, retreating 0.5 cm from the edge. We turn the lace inside out and pin it to the neck, clasping it on both sides. We make a line on the front side, preferably along the edge of the lace, so as not to disturb the pattern. If the edges of the lace are asymmetrical, then you will not be able to capture two of its sides with one line. It will be necessary to sew on the lace on the inside of the collar with your hands. On the back half of the bottom, I sewed small hooks as a quality. Alternatively, it can be a small flat button with an air loop.

OK it's all over Now! Our collar is ready! Look how he decorated an ordinary blouse. I found 2 brooches in my household, which, in my opinion, came very close to him.

If you have any questions about this master class, write, I will answer.

For those who love detachable collars, I suggest getting acquainted with another interesting creation experience. It will be a great addition to many outfits.

Share interesting information with your friends. I wish you all good luck!

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Find out even more interesting things:

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Drap Drap (French drap “cloth”) is a heavy, dense woolen fabric of complex weave made of hardware (cloth) spinning yarn. Like other types of fabrics made from natural raw materials, drape has a glorious history. Its production became possible after the invention of special looms that allow the production of material, the threads of which are arranged in several rows. To be precise, the drape has one and a half or two layers of weave. This allowed experimentation with weft and warp threads. The easiest option for this is to put exactly the same threads on the ducks and on the warp, on the outer and on the wrong layers. The next step was prompted by worldly logic: to replace the yarn of the inner layer with a cheaper or lower quality one. Further, part of the woolen threads was replaced with cotton or linen and another kind of drape was obtained. By changing the weave pattern, the raw materials, the combination of weft and warp colors, the finish of the front side, about a dozen classic varieties of drape were obtained. With the advent of artificial and synthetic fibers, the range of drapes has expanded and acquired new properties. Drap perfectly keeps the shape of the product, due to the thickness and layering remains warm and windproof. Properly dyed drape does not shed, does not fade in the sun and does not lose color in the rain. It practically does not wrinkle, and accidental creases can be straightened with steam. Varieties and varieties of drape If pure wool yarns of the best spinning are used to produce fabric on the outer and inner layers, a double-sided drape of the highest grade will be obtained. It was from such a drape that a small-town tailor turned his coat over in a well-known song. Indeed, a product from a double-sided drape that has worn out at the seams and bends can be carefully dissolved at the seams and sewn again, on the wrong side. The difference in appearance was insignificant and depended on the way the front side was processed. Drap is considered pure wool if the amount of additives in the yarn does not exceed 15%. By and large, these additives are wool restored by chemical methods. The highest quality drapes belong to this category. But usually in the lining layers, threads of lower quality are used, with the addition of wool recovered from waste. Therefore, the wrong side of such a drape is more loose. This does not affect the appearance of the drape product, but can significantly reduce its weight and overall density. If the wool content is in the range of 30-85%, the drape is considered to be half-woolen. As a rule, it is looser and lighter due to the content of nylon, nitron or viscose fibers. At the same time, they try to make the front layer pure wool. To give such a drape a classic look, the pile has to be pressed in and combed. Excessive friability and softness is the most common drawback of mixed drape. However, it also finds its application. In particular, some types are used in the manufacture of windproof suits and overalls. The processing of the front side of the finished drape is carried out in several stages. The fabric is felted to give extra density. Then it is piled: the pile is given the necessary qualities. Depending on the type of drape, its pile can be fluffy, velor, or pressed. After napping, the structure of the weave of the fabric becomes almost invisible. Classic varieties of drape If two or more colors of thread were used in the production of fabric, a melange drape will be obtained. Its weave pattern is extremely diverse, since it depends both on the weave and on the combination of warp and weft colors. Such varieties of drape are very expensive. They are used to make good, timeless outerwear for wealthy men and women. Classical drapes are pure wool fabrics made from wool of a certain quality in compliance with the necessary technologies for weaving and finishing. For example, the bottle drape should contain 80% merino and 20% tsigay wool (the wool of the tsigay breed sheep), the weave and the thickness of the threads are strictly regulated. The pile of the front side should be thick and dense. Drap velor is made of merino wool and does not contain extraneous additives. The pile of the front side lies freely, but should not roll or fray. There are other varieties that have long become classics. However, due to the great possibilities in the selection of raw materials, its percentage, the method of production and subsequent processing, new, no less interesting varieties of drape are constantly appearing. Pictured: Balenciaga coat

Admin 2015-06-03 at 3:52 am

This new article is devoted to the design features of collars of various types and cuts, methods of their processing and connection with the neck. And with this post, I open a new section on my blog: 100 collars. I will fill it until I describe exactly 100 collars.

I don’t know if I’ll collect so much in my memory - well, there is the Internet - I’ll look there. And you, dear reader, will help, if anything. So send in your models - I like to understand the designs of clothes.

Today I will describe the first collar - this is the plan:

And I will tell you how I used perforated glasses for the first time today to improve my vision.

So, how many designs of collars exist, their shapes, sizes, processing methods and the number of incoming parts?

Studying the varieties of collars from fashion magazines, catalogs and just samples of finished products, I always pay attention to what determines the shape of the collar:

First, I look at the shape of the collar.

Secondly, I decide how it connects to the neck (set-in or one-piece).

Third - how the collar fits to the neck - tightly, at some distance or even flat on the bodice.

And the fourth - how the collar is connected with the clasp - whether there is one at all, the clasp to the top or to the inflection of the lapel.

Structurally, the collar most often consists of a detail of the upper and lower collar, as well as a lining detail.

In total, there are several varieties of cut collars: flat-lying racks with different heights, set-in racks (vertical and inclined), one-piece racks with front and back details, shirt collars, a collar - collar, turn-down collars with a rack in the middle, and collars for products with an open fastener: jacket collars, shawl collars, apache collars.

A lot, right? We will gradually consider all these constructions in the following articles of this new column of mine.

And now let's start with the simplest collars to design, these are:

Turndown flat collars:

This is a collar that completely repeats the shape of the neck and shoulder area of ​​the product - turn-down flat.

A distinctive feature of this collar is the absence of a stand. That is, the collar lies flat on the figure.

The pattern of such a collar is built on the basis of the basic basis of the shelf and back of the product.

The shape of such a collar varies depending on the shape of the neck.

The line of stitching the collar into the neck completely repeats the contour of the neck of the product. The flyaway part of the collar can have a different shape - rounded or pointed edges, different collar widths.

The fastener in products with such collars can be both on the shelf and on the back. Also, there may not be a clasp at all.

Consider the most common model of such a collar - round or, as it is now called "Peter Pen".

The pattern of such a collar is easier to build than all the others - immediately on the basis of the neck of the product.

In the drawing of the shelves, set aside 6 cm along the contour of the neck in order to outline the contours of the collar. The contour of the fly-off of the collar is rounded to the center of the neck in front of a smooth line. The width of the collar is usually the same along the entire contour and varies depending on the model. In a children's dress 4 - 5 cm, in a women's dress or blouse 5 - 6 cm, in a coat 7 - 10 cm or more.

On the back, along the contour of the neck, you also need to set aside the width of the collar, in this case 6 cm. If there is no fastener on the back, then the collar can be with a seam located in the center of the back. If there is a fastener, then the collar on the back is not sewn, but is made out with rounded lines. And thus, two parts of the collar are formed - left and right.

The design of the collar lines on the back must be done with a closed shoulder tuck. This tuck can be temporarily closed and transferred to the armhole, or conditionally considered closed by extending the shoulder seam in a straight line from the point of the neck towards the shoulder.

Of course, there should not be a seam along the shoulder line on the collar.

The contour lines of the collar are copied onto a separate sheet of paper, aligned along the line of the shoulder seam and a collar pattern is obtained.

For the collection, I offer several other forms of neckline, suitable for a flat-shaped turn-down collar, without a stand:

The algorithm for constructing a pattern for such collars is simple - we change the neck line according to the model, then draw the collar lines.

Using the example of an open neckline, I will once again note that the key changes in the neckline are its width and depth. As well as the shape of the neckline on the chest - rounded or U-shaped:

Similarly to the previous model, the neckline of the next dress is formed, but there is also a Y-shaped neckline on the back. The shape of the ends of the collar is also different - they are not rounded, but sharp. The width of the collar is curly and gradually narrows closer to the shoulder.

Detachable collar - decorated with beads and rhinestones.

The neckline is decorated in a boat, the right part of the collar is superimposed on the left, and then sewn into the neck as one piece.

Let's continue the topic of collars in the next article -.

My reader and member of the training group, Tatyana, sent me an interesting letter. Quote:

» Helen, I see you in plus-size glasses. I have a mother - she is over 70 .. she restored her near vision in three months. She has good eyesight. So, she is “not a believing Thomas”, until she checks herself, she will not believe.

I bought her glasses with perforations, like "holes". During this time, she read for an hour a day, looked at something on the Internet, and suddenly once again puts on strong glasses, and they lubricate everything. She went, wiped them, no result.

She put on other glasses, weak, which she had not worn for a hundred years - and immediately began to see! Well, it went further. This is the second little man who, in my presence, began to see well up close - “far-sighted”. And the first grandmother, she is 80 years old, so she restored her eyesight and reads small letters calmly. Witness herself and it all started with her. And I have myopia and I calmly watch movies in them. So if you are wondering, as they say, first-hand such a result.

My eyesight really began to deteriorate - I can’t see well at close range. Without glasses, I can't even see the phone button.

Thanks to Tatyana - I bought these glasses today - they are perforated - these are such small holes on ... I wanted to say, on the glasses. But these are plastic "Glasses". In general, here is a photo of how they look, these glasses:

And now I am reporting on my impressions: (I bought it, by the way, in optics. They cost 890 rubles.) I ask the seller - “How do they work?” She - "Read the instructions." And he asks to put on these perforated glasses and read. I say: "I will not see such small letters." She - "put on your glasses."

Well put on - look and see! Small letters. I see! You can read directly through the perforation and the letters and objects become sharper. But it is unusual, however, - the image seems to be bifurcated and you have to somehow adjust.

Now I am writing these lines in new glasses. And interestingly, when I read this instructions for glasses, I tried to bring the text very close to my eyes - almost end-to-end - 5 cm distance - and you can still see.

I spent a total of about an hour in them today. Then I took it off - and when reading my mail, I could see the text - however, vaguely, but I could read it without glasses at all. Marvelous! Have your eyes rested in these glasses, or what? In general, I am a believer in Thomas, therefore, I will continue to study them.

I'll post the results if you're interested. So n e miss it. And for today I have everything.