Admin 2017-02-25 at 10:59 pm

In this section, I published ready-made women's patterns that were used in my work. They are tested and I hope they will be useful to you too. When I sewed to order, I accumulated a huge number of patterns. I began to digitize them to save space in the apartment. And now I'm sharing some patterns with you.

Then I started to build pattern drawings in Valentina, Optitex, AutoCAD, RedCafe, Assol. But in the end I chose the free Valentina program. And now I am building parametric drawings of the bases. Then I change the measurements in the program and print out any basis in 5 minutes. You, too, can make tremendous progress in this matter if you study Valentina. It's free and easy to use.

The basic basis of the dress

Pattern-basis of a dress of an adjacent silhouette with a set-in sleeve. The basis allows you to model a variety of styles of dresses, jackets, shirts. The pattern of a single-seam set-in sleeve is in a separate PDF file. Patterns are designed for figures, the dimensional characteristics of which are indicated below. Before cutting, adjust, if necessary, the pattern to fit your measurements. Also, the base has the necessary allowances for freedom of fitting, used when sewing an adjacent dress.

Total bust increase: 3 cm. Total waist increase: 5 cm. Total hip increase: 5 cm.

Dress length on the back: 100 cm (from the 7th cervical vertebra down)

The main parameters of the pattern:

Cr 42 p = Ob 46. Cr 44 p = Ob 48. Cr 46 p = Ob 50. Cr 48 p = Ob 52. Cr 50 p = Ob 54. Cr 52 p = Ob 54. Cr 54 p = Ob 56. Cr 56 p \u003d About 58. Cr 58 p \u003d About 60. Cr 60 p \u003d About 62.

All patterns are divided into 2 groups - sizes 42-50, sizes 52-60. You need to download a pattern with your size in the group and after gluing the sheets, just cut your own.

Download patterns:

Coat - cape

Blouse

Women's blouse 46 size. Height 168, og-92, from 74, about 98.

Back length approx. 70 cm

You will need: Fabric 2.30 m wide 140 cm; thin adhesive interlining; 10 buttons for sewing. Recommended Fabrics: Double face fabrics only.

Pattern: Print pattern details. Detail 2 reshoot twice. Of these, cut one piece for the right front strap along the drawn seam line. The label of the bottom button is the same for all sizes.

Allowances: On the seams and along the cuts - 1.5 cm, along the cuts of the sides and necks of the shelves - 1 cm, along the cuts of the planks - 1 cm, along the cuts of the collar - 1 cm, for the hem of the bottom - 2 cm.

1- Shelf 2 parts.

2- Plank of the right shelf 1 part

Left shelf plank 1 piece

3-Back with a fold

b) collar frill 87 cm long and 13 cm wide, including allowances;

c) 2 sleeve frills, 60 cm long and 15 cm wide, including allowances;

d) 2 bias tapes for edging sleeve slits 21 cm long and 3 cm wide, including allowances.

Blouse size 44 height-168, og-88, from-70, about-94

Back length approx. 53 cm

You will need: Poplin 1.30 m wide 150 cm; pad flap; 4 flat buttons.

Print pattern details.

Allowances: For seams and cuts - 1.5 cm, for hem hem - 2 cm.

21- Shelf with one-piece collar 2 parts

22- Back with fold 1x a)

2 bias tapes for edging sleeves 44 cm long and 4 cm wide, including allowances.

Gasket: to duplicate the loops on the shelves, iron to the facings along a small seam.

Women's leather jacket, size 46

Measurements: height 168, og-92, from 74, about-98.

Back length approx. 57 cm.

Blouse

size 46: height-168, bust-92, waist-74, hips-98.

size 50: height-168, bust-100, waist-82, hips-106.

Women's jacket

Size 46. Height 168, bust 92 cm, waist 74 cm, hips 98 cm.

Woman coat

size 46: height 168, og-92, from-74 ob- 98.

Back length approx. 85 cm

At first glance, the drawing of the base pattern looks very complicated. Believe me, this is only at first glance. Follow my description of the construction, and step by step we will master it!

The main drawing of women's shoulder clothing with set-in sleeves remains the same for all models, we will only change certain sections of the drawing and additions, in accordance with changes in style. On this basis, you can make not only a pattern for a dress, but also a pattern for a blouse, jacket and coat.

Based on this construction, you can cut the shoulder product into.

To build a base pattern, measurements and increments are needed. Read about how to take measurements correctly in the article about. Increase tables are located.

Measurements (cm)↓

• Ssh = 17.5
• Cr1 = 42
• Cr2 = 46
• Cr3 = 44
• St = 36
• Sat = 48
• Wh = 14
• Dts = 40
• Dtp = 43
• Vg \u003d 26
• Tsg = 8.5
• Vpk = 43
• Ws = 17
• Shn = 12.5
• dr = 55
• Op = 27
• Vprz = 20
• Di = 80

Gains (cm)↓

• Pg = 3.5
• Pshs = 0.7
• Pshp = 0.35
• Ppr = 2.45
• Fri = 1
• Pb = 1.5
• Pshgor = 0.5
• Pdts = 0.5
• Psp = 1.5
• Pop = 3

The increase along the chest line is distributed between the areas of the back, front and armholes↓

Pg \u003d Pshs + Pshp + Ppr.

For products of an adjacent silhouette:
Pshs = 0.2Pg
Pshp = 0.1Pg
Ppr \u003d 0.7Pg

For products of a semi-adjacent silhouette:
Pshs = 0.25Pg
Pshp = 0.15Pg
Ppr \u003d 0.6Pg

For products of a free silhouette:
Pshs = 0.3Pg
Pshp = 0.2Pg
Ppr \u003d 0.5Pg

To facilitate your task, you can use calculator tables for an accurate calculation of the structure or a ready-made parametric pattern. Press plus to open the tab and learn more. ↓

Ready solution:

Table-calculator for calculating the pattern-base of the female shoulder product and sleeve

You enter your measurements, and the program automatically calculates all the formulas. You do not have to count in your head or on a calculator and be afraid to make a mistake in the calculation.

390 rub

Let's start building the drawing, as usual, by building a right angle with the apex at point A. Draw a vertical line down, which will serve as the middle of the back (back half of the dress), to the right - a horizontal line, which will serve as the base of the top of the neck of the back.

1. From point A to the right horizontally, lay off the segment Aa1, equal to the width of the product along the chest line with an increase. Aa1 = Cr3 + Pg. Aa1 = 44 + 3.5 = 47.5. Draw a vertical line down from point A, which will be the line of the middle of the back. Draw a vertical line down from point a1, which will be the line of the middle of the shelf (the front half of the dress).

2. From point A down, mark the distance AG. AG \u003d Vprz + Pspr \u003d 20 + 1.5 \u003d 21.5. Draw a horizontal line through point G to the right and at the intersection with the line of the middle of the shelf we put point G1

3. From point A to the right along the line Aa1, we set aside the width of the back Aa, equal to the sum of Wc + Pshs. Aa \u003d 17 + 0.7 \u003d 17.7.

4. We set aside the width of the shelf from point a1 to the left and put point a2. a2a1 \u003d Shg + (Sg2 - Sg1) + Pshp \u003d 14 + (46-42) + 0.35 \u003d 18.4. From points a and a2 we lower the perpendiculars to the line of the chest and put points Г3Г4.

5. The width of the armhole aa2 (or G3G4) we got as a result of construction. aa2 (G3G4) \u003d Aa1-Aa-a2a1, that is, from the width of the product along the chest line, you need to subtract the width of the back and the width of the shelf. G3G4 \u003d 47.5 - 17.7 - 18.4 \u003d 11.5. There is a table approximate armhole width for typical figures. ⇓

Compare the width of the armhole you received with the approximate one. For an adjacent silhouette, it should not be too small, that is, it should not be less than approximate for your size. If you get an armhole width less than the minimum armhole width for your size in the table, then check the Ws and Wg measurements. Perhaps they are exaggerated. For control, compare measurements with for your size.

6. Further from point A downwards vertically, we set aside a segment that determines the level of the waist line. AT \u003d Dts + Pdts \u003d 40 + 0.5 \u003d 40.5. From the point T to the right we draw a horizontal line and at the intersection with the line a1G1 we put the point T1.

7. The distance from the waist line to the hip line TB = 0.5Dts - 2cm = 0.5 × 40 - 2 = 18. Hip line BB1 ​​horizontally.

8. From point A down, set aside the length of the product. AH \u003d Di \u003d 80. From the point H to the right we draw a horizontal line HH1. The drawing grid is built, let's start building the back.

Back construction

9. To the right of point A, set aside the width of the neck of the back - AA2. AA2 \u003d Ssh / 3 + Pshgor \u003d 17.5 / 3 + 0.5 \u003d 6.3.

10. From point A2 we lower down the perpendicular equal to the height of the sprout.

A2A1 \u003d AA2 / 3 \u003d 6.3 / 3 \u003d 2.1. Let's connect point A1 with the middle of the backrest with a horizontal segment and put point A0. Let's draw the neck line of the back by connecting the points A0A2 with a smooth line.

11. The position of the end shoulder point P1 is found using the intersection of two arcs: the first arc from point A2 with a radius equal to the width of the shoulder Shp + the opening of the tuck and the second arc with a radius equal to the measurement of the height of the shoulder oblique Vpk + increase Pdts. A2P1 \u003d Shp + tuck solution \u003d 12.5 + 2 \u003d 14.5. TP1 = Vpk + Pdts = 43 + 0.5 = 43.5. We draw the line of the shoulder seam by connecting points A2 and P1.

12. The size of the tuck solution II1 depends on the posture of the figure and on the structure of the fabric:

13. The location of the A2I tuck on the shoulder seam is also determined depending on the posture of the human figure. For typical figures, the distance from point A2 to point I is 4 - 4.5 cm. If the figure is stooped, then the tuck is located closer to the middle of the shoulder section. We postpone the solution of the tuck from the point And along the line of the shoulder cut and get the point I1. And we postpone the length of the tuck from the point And down vertically and put the point I2. The length of the II2 tuck should be at least 6 cm and not more than 9 cm. The II2 line is straight, the I1I2 line is a smooth curve.

14. To decorate the armhole line of the back, we find auxiliary points P3, c, G2. From the point P1 to the line aG3 we restore the perpendicular and the resulting intersection point is denoted by the point P2. We measure the segment G3P2 in the drawing. Now from the point G3 upwards we set aside a value equal to 1/3 of the distance G3P2 plus 2 cm. G3P3 \u003d G3P2 / 3 + 2 cm.

16. Point G2 is the middle of the armhole, which means G3G2 \u003d 0.5 × 11.5 \u003d 5.7 cm. We connect the points P1, P3, c, G2 with a smooth line - this is the back armhole.

Our back is built, how are you doing? If everything is OK, then we will continue and proceed to the construction of the shoulder product.

© Olga Marizina

A well-chosen dress enhances any figure, for example, a model of a classic dress with a semi-fitted silhouette with sleeves. The semi-fitted silhouette occupies an intermediate position between straight and fitted bases and is a kind of adjacent silhouette. For the pattern of the model of the semi-adjacent style of the product, a lower degree of fit and a soft outline of the shape of the chest, a loose fit along the waistline are characteristic. In general, it repeats the outlines of the figure, without revealing the features that characterize the size and shape of the human body.

On this page, we will consider the phased construction of a classic pattern for the base of a semi-adjacent dress with long sleeves. The length of the product will be cut out a little below the knee. To build a pattern drawing, we take individually taken measurements from a figure of the 44th size.

There are many methods and ways to build a drawing of patterns for the basics of a dress. But how to build a light and ideally sitting on a human figure? One of the easiest options to do it according to the Italian method. This option, at the same time, is the main one for all classic dresses, tight-fitting, tight-fitting and fitted and fitted shoulder products.

List of measurements, their symbols for the base dress of a semi-adjacent silhouette.

The measurement of dimensional features is a process that characterizes the shape of a particular part of the human body. The figure is measured following a certain sequence. The measured must be in a natural position, that is, without unnecessary turns of the figure. The measurement is made with a centimeter tape. The dimensions taken will later be needed to build a drawing of a product pattern.

For accuracy during the measurement, it is necessary to fix the position of the waist, tie the narrowest place on the figure with an elastic band, braid or cord. The correctness of the drawing of the pattern will also depend on how accurately the measurements are taken from the figure.

Measurements must be taken from the person for whom the dress is planned to be sewn. How to measure the figure correctly, you can find out. In addition, in Table 1 on this page there are pictures that show the method and place of body measurement. The values ​​​​that are recorded in table 1 should be replaced with your appropriate ones.

Building the foundation.

This stage is the most important in the further design of various styles of clothing. This process requires adherence to a clear sequence of actions in this manual and care when calculating formulas.

Before building a drawing of a back or front shelf pattern, you need to build a grid of the initial design, that is, with a base grid, which consists of a series of horizontal and vertical straight lines located at a distance corresponding to certain data (measurements) or a series of preliminary calculation calculations (formulas).

The meaning of building the base is that it combines the main lines of the product drawing, which are common to various models of the same cut. These are the lines of the middle of the shelf and back, darts for the formation of bulges, for protruding body shapes (chest, shoulder blades) and upper contour lines.

Base mesh back.

Consists of 4 rectangles (Fig. 1). The construction of the basic grid begins with a vertical line in the middle of the back. On the left side of a sheet of paper, draw a straight vertical line AE, which is ( Di).

AE= Product length ( Di) = 102cm.
On a vertical line AE build the first rectangle with sides AA1 = YG1 And AG = A1G1.
Parallel segments are equal to each other:
AG = A1G1 = 1/2 Dst(Length of back to waist) + 3cm (increase to Dst) = 43cm: 2 + 3cm = 24.5cm.
AA1 = GG1= ((Arc of shoulder) Dp: 2cm + (increase constant)) \u003d 39cm: 2cm + 0.5cm \u003d 20cm.
Next second rectangle with sides GT = G2T1 And GG2 = TT1.
GT = G2T1= back length to waist ( Dst) - AG(from the grid drawing) = 43cm - 24.5cm = 18.5cm.
For control, we recheck the segment from the drawing AT= back length to waist ( Dst)=43cm.
GG2 = TT1= (Half bust 2( Pog 2) + increase): 2cm - 1cm = (47cm + 3cm): 2cm - 1cm = 24cm.
Draw a third rectangle with sides TB = T2B1 and TT2 = BB1.
TB = T2B1 = wb(thigh height) = 19 cm.
TT2 = BB1=(Pob(Half-Hip) + Increase) : 2cm - 1cm = (50cm + 1cm) : 2cm - 1cm = 24.5cm.

We extend the vertical line T2B1 of the previous rectangle to the bottom and build the last fourth rectangle with sides BE = B1E1 And BB1 = EE1.
The result of constructing a drawing of the basic grid of the back, see Figure 1.

The drawing is shown in Figure 2.

Neck.

On the basic grid of the back, we build a rectangle from the point A with the parties AA2 = A3A4 And AA3 = A2A4.
Parties AA3 = A2A4= 2 cm (standard value).
AA2 = A3A4 = (Posh: 3cm) + increase = (19.5 cm: 3 cm) + 0.5 cm = 7 cm.
The neck of the back is formed through points A3 And A2 smooth arcuate concave line, see Figure 2.

Shoulder slope.

A2P, you need from the point A1, which is located on the neckline, retreat to the bottom the standard value used for dresses without shoulder pads (shoulder pads), and mark this place with a beech P.
A1P= 3cm.
A2, P.

Armhole construction.

On the vertical line A1G1 we measure the segments:
G1P1= 0.1 cm × G1P(measured from the drawing) = 0.1cm × 21.5cm = 2.15cm.
G1P2= 0.4 cm × G1P= 0.4cm × 21.5cm = 8.6cm.
From a point P2 on the left side we measure a distance equal to 1.5 cm (standard value) and denote it with a conditional point P3.
P2P3= 1.5 cm.
through dots P, P3, P1, G2 draw a concave armhole line.

General calculation (sum) of tuck solutions ΣВ.

ΣB = (Pob+ increase) - ( Sweat+ increase) \u003d (50 cm + 1 cm) - (37 cm + 2 cm) \u003d 12 cm.

Side cut of the back shelf or side tuck.

Total side tuck width = ΣB× 0.5 = 12 × 0.5 = 6 cm.
The width of the drawing of the back along the waist line or finding the side point T3.
T2T3\u003d (side tuck width): 2 \u003d 6 cm: 2 \u003d 3 cm.
We draw the line of the side cut of the vertical curve through the points G2, T3, B1, E1.

The center of the tail tuck on the back pattern.

We find the location and center of the traveling tuck.
TO = TT3(we measure from the drawing): 2 = 21.5: 2 = 10.75 cm.
Through the dot ABOUT up and down we draw vertical lines until they intersect with the lines of the chest and hips.

The width of the recess on the back.

Opening (width) of the rear tuck В1В2 = ΣВ× 0.3 = 12 × 0.3 = 3.6 cm.
B1O = OB2 = B1B2: 2cm=3.6cm: 2cm=1.8cm.

Finding the length of the back tuck B3, O, B4.

Dart length B3B4(standard for this model) = 29 cm.
On a vertical line passing through a point ABOUT, measure the standard values: up OV3= 16 cm and down OV4= 13 cm.
We build the contour of the tuck through points B1, B3, B2, B4.
See the result in Fig2.

Consists of 4 rectangles (Figure 3).
We start the construction of the drawing from the line of the middle of the front. On the right side of a sheet of paper, draw a straight vertical line AE.
AE= Product length ( Di) +(dpt(front length to waist) - Dst(back length to waist)) = 102cm + (45 cm - 43cm) = 104 cm.
On the segment AE we build the first rectangle with sides that are equal to each other AG = A1G1 and AA1 = GG1.
AG = A1G1 = AG(from the drawing of the grid of the back of Fig. 1) = 24.5 cm.
AA1 = YY1 = AA1(from the drawing of the grid of the back of Fig. 1) = 20cm.
Next we build a second rectangle with sides GT = G2T1 and GG2 = TT1.
GT = G2T1 = dpt(Length front to waist) - AG(from drawing fig. 3) = 45 cm - 24.5 cm = 20.5 cm.
For control, we recheck the segment in the drawing AT= front length to waist ( dpt) = 45 cm.
grizontal YG2 And TT1 = (Pog 2 + increase) : 2cm + 1cm = (47cm + 3cm) : 2cm + 1cm = 26cm.
Third rectangle with sides TB = T2B1 And TT2 = BB1.
Vertical parallel lines TB And T2B1= TB(from the drawing of the grid of the back of Fig. 1) = 19cm.
Horizontal parallel sides TT2 And BB1 = (Pob(Semi-Hip) + Increase) : 2cm + 1cm = (50cm + 1cm) : 2cm + 1cm = 26.5cm.
Fourth rectangle with sides BB1 = EE1 And BE = B1E1.
What should be the result (see Figure 3).

Building a drawing of a front pattern

Drawing in Fig 4.

Neck line.

On the basic grid, the front from the point A build a rectangle with sides AA2 = A3 A4 And AA3 = A2A4.
Horizontal sides AA2 And A3A4 = AA2(from the drawing of the back of Fig. 2) = 7 cm.
vertical AA3 And A2A4 = AA2(from the drawing of the backrest, Fig. 2) + increase = 7cm + 1cm = 8cm.
Draw an arched neck line in front through the dots A2 ,A3.

Shoulder slope.

To build a straight shoulder line A2P. Need from a point A1 down we measure the value with the standard long used for dresses without shoulder pads and mark this place with a beech P.
A1P= 4cm.
On the pattern, the slope of the shoulder line is made straight by connecting the points A2, P.

Armhole construction.

To find points P1, P2 needed from G1 up to retreat the value found by the formula:
G1P1= 0.1 × G1P(we measure from the drawing Fig. 4) = 0.1 × 20.5 cm = 2.05 cm.
G1P2= 0.3 × G1P(we measure from the drawing Fig. 4) = 0.3 × 20.5 cm = 6.15 cm.
Further, from the obtained point P2, to the right we retreat the standard value equal to 2 cm and put the letter P3.
P2P3= 2 cm.
We make the armhole with a smooth concave line through the symbols P, P3, P1, G2(Figure 4).

Side seam and side tuck.

On the front panel along the waist line we find a point T3.
T2T3 = T2T3(from the drawing of the shelf of the back of the dress, Fig. 2) = 3 cm.
The middle of the traveling tuck, indicated by the letter ABOUT, is found in the following way:
from point T to the left we retreat the value found by the formula - TO = Tg(measuring the distance between the centers of the chest): 2 \u003d 20 cm: 2 \u003d 10 cm.
From a point ABOUT up and down we build straight segments until the lines of the neck and hips intersect. We put an end O1 on the neckline.
Find the angle of the side tuck. From O1 down we retreat an amount equal to the measure taken Vg(Chest height) get a point L.
O1L = Vg= 26cm.
points G2 And T3 connect with an auxiliary line. On this line we find points L2, L1.
G2L2 = TO(from the front drawing) = 10cm.
We draw an auxiliary line connecting the points L2L.
L2L1 = dpt(front length to waist) - Dst(back length to waist) = 45cm - 43cm = 2cm.
Side tuck sides L1, 2 cm = 2 cm, L2, building by connecting and equalizing them so that they do not reach the point L 2 cm (standard value for building a pattern with a side tuck).
We draw the line of the side seam with a smooth curved line through the points G2, L1, 2 cm, L2, T3, B1, E1.

Opening (width) of the front tackle recess.

Front tuck solution В1В2 = ΣВ× 0.2 = 12 × 0.2 = 2.4 cm.
from point ABOUT which is located on the waistline TT2 retreat to the right and to the left by an amount equal to:
B2O = OB1= tuck solution B1B2/ 2 \u003d 2.4: 2 \u003d 1.2 cm

Depth and height (length) of the tackle undercut on the front panel.

from point L down we retreat a constant value and put a point AT 3.
LV3= 2 cm.
The depth of the tuck is measured from the point ABOUT, which is located on the waist line. Retreat, put down 8 cm AT 4.
OV4= 8 cm.
We draw the contour (sides) of the tuck through points B2, B3, B1, B4.
As a result, what should happen, see Figure 4.

Note. Due to the relative accuracy of the methods for constructing a drawing, a pattern for the base of a product with a shirt-cut sleeve, the primary drawing of the product must be changed by shifting the shoulder line by 1 cm towards the front half of the pattern (Fig. 5). Accordingly, shift the highest point of the eyelet on the sleeve pattern.

The construction of a base pattern is an important stage in the creation of clothes; it is on its basis that the product is modeled (making it unique). There are various cutting systems and different methods for constructing basic patterns, professionals can use several of them when creating clothes.

In this article, I SHARE MY EXPERIENCE in constructing a pattern for the base of a dress with a straight silhouette on a conditionally standard figure according to the cut system “M. Muller and Son”, this system has stood the test of time and is still popular.

The construction of a dress pattern with a straight silhouette is relatively simple, because. due to the absence of traveling tucks, its construction requires less calculations compared to dress patterns of adjacent silhouettes.

(P, cm),

straight silhouette (with sleeves):

To the height of the armhole at the back (Vpr.z) + 2÷3;

To the width of the back (Ws) + 1.5÷2;

To the width of the armhole (Wpr) + 2.5÷3.5;

To chest width (Wg) + 1.5÷2

(cm), removed from the human figure:

- Chest girth (Og) = 85,

- Waist circumference (From) = 62,

- Hip circumference (Ob) \u003d 95,

- Length of the back to the waist (Dts) = 44,

- Product length (Di) = 100,

- Chest height I (BgI) = 34,

– Waist length in front I (ДтпI) = 56

Estimated measurements (cm),

with Og more than 80 cm:

- Armhole height at the back (Vpr.z) * \u003d Og / 10 + 10.5 \u003d 85/10 + 10.5 \u003d 19,

Vpr.z + P = 19 + 2÷3 = 19 + 2 = 21;

- Hip height (Wb) \u003d Vpr.z + Dts \u003d 19 + 44 \u003d 63;

- Neck width at the back (Wsh.z) \u003d Og / 20 + 2 \u003d 85/20 + 2 \u003d 6.3;

- Breast height II (ВгII) = ВгI - Шш.з = 34 - 6.3 = 27.7;

- Waist length in front II (DtpII) \u003d DtpI - Shsh.z \u003d 56 - 6.3 \u003d 49.7;

- Back width (Ws) * \u003d Og / 8 +5.5 \u003d 85/8 +5.5 \u003d 16, 125,

Shs + P \u003d 16.125 + 1.5 ÷ 2 \u003d 18;

- Armhole width (Wpr) * \u003d Og / 8 - 1.5 \u003d 85/8 - 1.5 \u003d 9.125,

Shpr + P \u003d 9.125 + 2.5 ÷ 3.5 \u003d 12;

- Chest width (Whg) * \u003d Og / 4 - 4 \u003d 85/4 - 4 \u003d 17.25,

Shg + P \u003d 17.25 + 1.5 ÷ 2 \u003d 19

*measurements that are taken during construction with allowances for freedom of fit (P)

CONTROL:[(Vpr.z+P) + (Shs+P) + (Spr+P) + (Sg+P)] should be equal to [Og/2+P] = [Og/2 + 5÷7.5]

Building a drawing of a basic pattern of a dress with a straight silhouette:

Prepare a rectangle of tracing paper, width Og / 2 + 30cm, length Di + 15cm.

1. Base grid. In the upper right corner, stepping back from the top 10 cm, and from the edge 5 cm, put a point O. Draw a vertical line down.

From point O down the line, set aside OG \u003d Vpr.z + P \u003d 21cm; OT=Dts=44cm; OB=Wb=63cm; OH=Di=100cm.

From the points obtained, build horizontal lines to the left: O - top line, G - chest line, T - waist line, B - hip line, H - bottom line.

1. Back center line. Set aside 2 cm from point B to the left, mark point B1. From point through point B1, draw a straight line to the bottom line. Mark its intersection with horizontal lines with dots, as in the drawing.

chest line. From the point G1 to the left, set aside G1G2 \u003d Ws + P \u003d 18cm; then alternately put aside to the left: G2G3 \u003d 2/3 * (Shpr + P) \u003d 8cm; Г3Г4=10÷13cm; G4G5=1/3*(Spr+P)=4cm; G5G6=Wg+P=19cm.

CONTROL: G6G4 + G3G1 \u003d (Og / 2 + P) \u003d 49 cm.

The line of the middle of the shelf. From the marked points, build verticals, as in the drawing. The vertical passing through the point G6 is the line of the middle of the shelf.

At the intersection of lines built from points O and G2, mark point O1.

1. Back neckline. From point O to the left, set aside OO2 = Shsh.z = 6.3 cm. With a large value of Og OO2, you should take = Shsh.z-0.5 cm. From the point O2 upwards, build a perpendicular 2 cm long, mark the point O3. Connect points O and O3 along the pattern with a smooth line.

Back shoulder line. From point O1 down, set aside O1O4 = 1 ÷ 1.5 cm. Draw a straight line from point O3 through point O4. From the point O4 to the left along the line, set aside O4O5 \u003d 1.5 ÷ 2 cm (with a small size); 0÷1cm (for large size); 1 ÷ 1.5 cm (with an average size).

1. Back opening. Divide the segment G2O4 in half, mark the point P1, draw a horizontal line through P1 (line of the shoulder blades), set aside P1P1 '= 1cm to the left. Divide the segment P1G2 in half, mark the point P2. Construct a perpendicular to the left, mark point P4 at its intersection with the vertical from point G5, set aside P2P3 = 1.3 ÷ 1.5 cm to the left of P2 (the smaller the size, the smaller the value). From point O5 through P1'P3 to point G3, build an armhole line, smooth along the pattern, so that its beginning is perpendicular to the shoulder line.

1. On the waistline, mark the points T1 and T2, as shown in the drawing. On the chest line, from the point G6 to the right, we postpone G6G7 \u003d Og / 10 + 0.5 \u003d 9 cm. We draw a vertical line, at its intersection with the waist line, mark the point T4. On the vertical from the point T4 upwards we set aside T4O7 \u003d DshpII \u003d 49.7 cm. From the point O7 vertically down, we lay aside O7G8 \u003d VgII \u003d 27.7 cm.

From the point G5 vertically upwards we set aside G5O6 \u003d G2O4-(1 ÷ 1.5) (we look at the figure, the greater the slope of the shoulder line, the greater the value must be subtracted).

1. From points G8 and G5, through points O7 and O6 we draw arcs with radii G8O7 and G5O6, respectively.

From the point O6 along the arc to the right, we set aside O6O8 \u003d Og / 20- (0.5 ÷ 1) \u003d 3.25 cm. From the point O8 we draw an arc with a radius = O3O5-1 = 14 cm, where 1 cm is climbed for landing, this is the difference between the lengths of the back and front shoulder lines. At the intersection of the arcs, mark the point O9.

Armhole shelves. We connect the points O8 and P4 with a straight line, divide the segment in half, mark the point P5. From the point P5 to the left we build a perpendicular with a length = 1 cm, mark the point P6. From point O8 to point G4 through P6 and P4 we draw a smooth line along the pattern, do not forget that it starts perpendicular to the line of the shoulder.

1. Shelf neck. From the point O7 we build a perpendicular to the line of the middle of the shelf, mark the point O10. From the point O10 along the perpendicular to the right, we set aside O10O11 \u003d Shsh.z \u003d 6.3. At large values ​​of Og, O10O11 = Wsh.z-0.5. From the point O10 vertically down, we set aside O10O12 = Shsh.z + 1 ÷ 2 = 7.5 cm. We connect the points O10 and G5 with a straight line, mark O10O13 \u003d Shsh.z + 0.5 ÷ 0.8 cm. Through the points O12O13O11 we draw a smooth line along the pattern.

1. Shoulder shelf and tuck. From the point O9 we set aside O9O14 \u003d O11O7 \u003d 3cm. We connect O14 and G8 - this is the right side of the tuck. From the point G8 vertically upwards, we postpone G8O15 \u003d G8O14. We connect O11 and O15 with a straight line.

1. Place of tuck on the back. From the point O3 along the line of the back shoulder to the left, we set aside O3O16 = 3 ÷ 5 cm. We draw a perpendicular to the horizontal of the shoulder blades, mark point L at the intersection. With the bulge of the shoulder blades and stoop, the dotted lines are cut and moved apart, as a result of which a tuck is formed, the back lengthens. I don't cut because my pattern is for a figure with a flat back.

1. Control signs for stitching sleeves. On the back, Kc coincides with point P3. On the shelf from the point G5 vertically upwards, lay G5Kp = (Spr + P) / 4 = 3cm.

Side lines. Along the waistline from the point T2 to the left we set aside T2T5=1÷2cm, from the point T3 to the right we set aside T3T6=0.5÷1cm. From points G4 and G3 we draw straight lines through points T6 and T5 to the bottom line. At the intersection with the line of the hips, we mark points B2 and B3. The intersection of the line of the hips with the middle line of the shelf - point B4.

CONTROL:(B4B3+B2B1) should be more (R/2+3cm). Otherwise, you need to increase the expansion of the front and back along the side lines.

1. Bottom line. From point H1 we build a perpendicular to the line of the middle of the back, its intersection with the line of the side of the back is denoted by point H2, from point H2 we draw a horizontal line to the left until it intersects with the side line of the shelf, we mark point H3. We build the line of the bottom of the shelf: a curved smooth line passing from point H3 to a perpendicular to the line of the middle of the shelf.

Offset shoulder line. We raise the line of the back shoulder in parallel by 1 cm. We lower the line of the shoulder of the shelf in parallel by 1 cm.

This is how the pattern looks like the basis of a dress with a straight silhouette, built according to the cut system “M. Muller and Son”.

To check its fit on the figure, it is necessary to transfer the pattern to a simple fabric, sew and try on, more about this in the article.

The individual construction of the pattern of the base of the dress is more accurate. With the correct construction of the drawing, fewer fittings and adjustments will be required. And after tailoring to your own measurements, the finished product will perfectly emphasize the figure, ensuring a perfect fit. The transformation of a standard pattern into the necessary fashionable dress is possible with the help of modeling.

The basis of the dress is built once according to one's own standards, then, with the help of modeling, the detailed features of the product are created. A drawing of an exact pattern will help emphasize the dignity of the figure and hide the flaws.

To create a basic design, it is necessary to remove a certain number of dimensional characteristics from the figure, using a centimeter tape and mathematical calculations, convert them into segments of the desired length, setting them aside on the plane of the paper.

Required dimensions:

In order to visually present the principle of constructing and carrying out calculations, we should consider an example with standard numbers.

In this case, the basic dimensional characteristics of the female size 48:

1. OG=96.
2. SG=48.
3. CG=9.5.
4. FROM=76.
5. ST=38.
6. OB=106.
7. SB=53.
8. SS=36.
9. OR=36.
10. SHP=12.5.
11. DP=13.5.
12. CI=110.
13. DSt=38.
14. DPT=43.

To understand how to build a dress pattern according to your own measurements, you should remember that some measurements are taken using only half the value.

Thus, the pattern of the dress will reflect ½ front and back.

Building the base of the dress is best done on graph paper with a ruler and pencil.

1. The structure of the drawing grid. Point A is placed in the upper left corner, a full size equal to CI or 110 cm is laid down from it, denoting the letter H below. down, a straight guide parallel and equal to AN is drawn, fixing it at the bottom as H1.
2. Basting lines of the chest, waist and hips. From, A in a straight line lay DST corresponding to 38 cm, adding 0.5 cm for freedom of movement. This is the waist line, which is indicated by the point T, a perpendicular BH1 is drawn from it and the sign T1 is put. The direction of the hips is formed according to the same principle 1/2 DSt \u003d 16, fixed with point B by drawing a straight line to the opposite edge of the sheet, put B1.
3. Construction of the armhole mesh. The segment AA1 is 19 cm, that is? ШС-18 cm to which 1 cm is added for freedom of fitting. The value of A1A2 is set aside to the right, this is the SG indicator, which is summed up with an increase in freedom of fitting 0.5 cm. The resulting number is 12.5, this is the width of the armhole of the future sleeve. From A1 and A2 down, you need to draw 2 parallel lines to TT1.
4. Back neck shaping. From A1, 6.5 cm should be set aside, is this? OR =18. From this value, take the 3rd part, which is equal to 6 cm, adding 0.5 cm to the freedom of fitting. Thus, it turns out, A 3 from which a straight line is drawn upwards with a value of 1/10 of the half-girth of the neck, this is 1.8 cm + 0.5 (increase). The resulting point A4, from which a smooth line is drawn connecting A3 and A4 with an arc. The same method is applicable to Karfiati (korfiati) when constructing a pattern for the base of a dress.
5. The line of the shoulder of the back and the construction of the undercut. From A1, an indicator of 2.5 cm is laid down, marking the end of the segment with the letter P. From A4 through point P, a line is drawn whose length is equal to DP (13.5 cm), given the recess on the back of the future dress, this is 2 cm. A4P1 \u003d 15, 5 cm, forming the shoulder of the product. On the same guide from A4, a standard size of 4 cm is laid aside, at the end they put the letter O. The undercut on the back has normalized indicators - this is OO1 = 8 cm, OO2 = 2 cm, O1O3 = 8 cm. It remains to connect the points with straight lines, like O3 P1.
6. Drawing of the armhole back. From the point G, lay up a distance equal to 1/3 of the PG, adding 2 cm for freedom of movement. It turned out the distance from G and P 2 corresponding to 8.3 cm. The point G4 is the middle of the armhole, its value? YY2. When building the base of the dress in a simple way, smoothly, with a curved curve, the obtained points are connected to each other, forming an armhole of the back.
7. Front armhole drawing. From G2 up put off an indicator equal? SG adding an increase of 5 cm. The value is 17, the resulting point is defined as P4. The segment P4 P5 is 1/10 SG, the indicator of which is 4.8 cm. The sleeves are formed due to the point P6, which is found by dividing G2P4 by 3, the indicator G2P6 is 5.7. The distance between P5P6 is divided into 2 parts, setting aside 1 cm towards the front. The bending point of the armhole P7 appears when the angle G2 is divided into two parts, setting aside 2.5 cm G2P7. For the correct outline of the armhole in front, it is necessary to connect P5, P6, P7, G1, as well as the back with a smooth line.
8. The construction of the neck of the front. The distance G3V1 is half the SG with an increase of 1.5 cm, the segment is 25.5 cm. In front, you need to continue the straight line from G2, setting the point B 2. From B1 to the left, you need to set aside the value of the corresponding 6.5, this is 1/3 of the SS and an increase of 0.5 cm. In the value of B1B4, the same indicator is used, only 2 cm is added, where you need to set aside a segment corresponding to 8. The points B3B4 are connected by a line, dividing it into two parts using the angle B1, and put point B5. All the points obtained are combined with a curved one, getting the neck of the front, as in the construction of the basic pattern according to Zlachevskaya.
9. Construction of the line of the shoulder in front and chest undercut. They outline the central part of the chest for this, from G3 to the left, set aside 9.5 cm (CH) and put a point G6. A perpendicular is drawn upwards from it to the intersection with line B, and point B6 is set. The shoulder line is formed by laying 1 cm down from point B6, the resulting B7 is connected to B3. The same straight line is continued to P5, from which the DP is laid off, excluding from it the distance B3B7 corresponding to 3 cm. The resulting point B8 will be part of the chest undercut, P5B8 is equal to 10.5. From the formed point G6, it is necessary to draw a segment through B8, corresponding to the distance G6V7. With the top at point B9, which is connected to P5 forming a shoulder line and a recess.
10. The construction of the side seam and the distribution of undercuts of the warp. On the segment GG4, it is necessary to put a point G5, the value of which is 1/3 ShP 4.2. Draw a straight line vertically at the intersections, put points P, T2, B2, H2. When designing a dress, semi-adjacent or free base, the side line is drawn with this in mind. Considering the pattern of a dress with a straight silhouette for beginners, the guide of the side part without bends. To determine the undercuts of the waist along the side seam, 1 cm is added to ST, the resulting value of 39 cm is subtracted from the distance TT1. The value equal to 14 is the general solution of the tuck. At the same time, the undercut of the front is? part of the whole size is 3.5 cm. The rest goes to the back is 4.2 cm, 6.3 is left on the side.
11. Step-by-step drawing of undercuts on a dress. Dart solutions are located from the chest lines to the hips. Points B2B4 are formed by the fact that 1 cm is laid off from B2 in both directions. T3 and T4 is the calculated margin for the side part 6.3, where T2T3 \u003d T2T4 \u003d 3.2 cm. to B4, as well as from T4 to B3. To build a recess for the back, divide the distance G1G into 2 parts with a point at the top of G8 by drawing a straight line down. This guide will be the middle of the undercut on the line of the hips, point B8, waist T8 should be determined. Distance Т6Т7=Т6Т8=2.1 cm. Which corresponds to half of the undercut solution. G8 and 1 is a distance equal to 1 cm. B8 and 3 the indicator is 3 cm. All the points obtained are combined with straight guides. The undercut of the front is built according to the principle of the back, where the G7 point serves as an axial distributing point through which a straight line is drawn. On it, at the waist, the values ​​\u200b\u200bof the solution of T10 and T11 equal to 3.7 cm are laid. The distance B7 and 4 corresponds to 4 cm, while the distance T9 -4 is the same in the chest region and hips.
12. Construction of the bottom of the product. Depending on the model of the dress and the silhouette base, narrowed flared at the bottom. The H points can change their meaning. Basically, the front is longer than the back, so 3 to 5 cm are laid down from H1 and connected to H2.

Modeling based on a basic pattern

The dress resulting from the construction process - a case of a straight silhouette can be transformed and modeled. A similar designation of points and details on how to make a pattern for beginners can be found in the Mueller method.

Almost all elements of the dress lend themselves to modeling, here are some of them:

• Front neckline, collar construction.
• Transformation of undercuts into detachable coquettes, embossed seams, undercuts.
• Bottom width and length.
• Modeling the sleeves and armholes of the dress, determining the length and features.
• The location of the fastener (zipper, buttons, hooks).

If the basic pattern is built, then you can make any model of a blouse, sweater, jacket and even a coat out of it.

Only allowances for freedom of fit that the masters know and use in the design change. They are necessary to create maximum comfort when walking.

On the basic pattern, the undercuts are located in a standard way, but if desired and in non-standard forms, they can be moved to another place.

So, having, for example, wide hips and a narrow waist, it is necessary to emphasize it.

In this case, you should move the front undercut to the side of the dress.

And with a large chest, the undercut on the front can be divided into 2 parts coming from the shoulder and armhole. This option will make the waist thinner and lift the chest..

Some sewing masters believe that the shoulder tuck on the back is not needed and creates extra volume. But one can argue with this, for example, when forming embossed seams along the back, it is necessary.

In the Italian technique, undercuts are transferred by cutting the main paper structure and fixing it on the fabric.

The dress is modeled on the basis of the pattern directly on the material, and the finishing touches are finalized during the fitting.

The basic pattern is also applicable for children's things when building, for example, a dress for a girl, a raincoat or a coat.

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