When cutting along the edge and without the edge of the right and left parts of the front in shirts made of dense non-shrinking fabrics, processing is carried out without interlining materials. Slices of allowances for the fastener (when cutting without an edge) are overcast. The allowance for the fastener is ironed along the notches on the press or with an iron.

In shirts made of crumbling fabrics, the fastener of the shelves is processed with liners made of coarse calico or Madapolam. On the allowance of the left side of the front, a braid or a strip of cotton fabric is sewn on a two-needle machine. At the same time, the bending of the sections of the strip and the allowance of 5-6 mm is carried out using a device. The distance from the line to the folded edge of the front is 2 mm, between the lines - 25 mm; from the inside line to the edge of the lining or braid - 2 mm.

When processing the fastener of a shirt with lace (Fig. 54, a), the allowance for the fastener of the right and left parts of the front is ironed on the front side along the notches. The sections are folded over by 6 mm and stitched on a stitching machine at a distance of 1 mm from the folded edge, inserting lace (Fig. 54, b). The location of the laces is determined by the model. If there is lace on the front of the shirt in several rows, the lace is sewn on a stitching machine with a straight or zigzag stitch.

The sections of lace in the upper part of the shirt are fixed in the seams of the collar with the neck and in the shoulder seams, in the lower (Fig. 54, c) - the sections of lace are folded towards the inside of the lace, equalizing them with the edge, and secured with a stitching line.

Elegant shirts are treated with finishing overlays (Fig. 55). Sections of the lateral and lower sides of the overlays are ironed. The overlays are adjusted to the front of the shirt on a sewing machine, placing the line 1 mm from the folded edges.

Along the fastener line, the overlay is fixed with a line when adjusting the allowance for the fastener. The configuration of such overlays is determined by the model.

The fastener of the left part of the front can be processed with finishing tucks or small folds (Fig. 56).

In shirts with a fastener to the bottom, the fastener of the left and right parts of the front is processed with stitched trims and selections from the main or finishing fabrics (Fig. 57, a, b). The width of the bar is determined by the model. The slats are pre-ironed along the notches, then they are sewn to the cut of the front parts on a sewing machine from the side of the slats or connected on an overcasting machine. The seams are folded towards the slats. The strips are adjusted on the front side with a seam with a width according to the technical description.

The inner edges of the bands are overcast. The pick-up is folded with the bar with the front side inward and connected from the side of the bar.

The upper corners are turned to notches. The pick-up is turned on the front side, the turning seam is straightened and ironed. The presence and width of the finishing line is determined by the technical description for the model. The finishing line should not reach the upper end of the bar by 100-120 mm.

When processing the fastener of the left side of the front with a tuning bar (Fig. 57, c), the latter is ironed along the notches, then stitched, folding the front side of the bar with the wrong side of the front. The seam is straightened and bent, forming an edging from the bar. The bar is adjusted on the front side according to the model.

In fasteners with a finishing strip, the allowance of the left side of the shelf is ironed on the front side to the width of the strip and taking into account 5-7 mm of the seam width. The lining is adjusted in the middle of the allowance from the wrong side.

The section of the fastener is fixed with a line, thus forming a fold (Fig. 58, a), on which, according to the marking, loops are overcast. The fixed allowance with a gasket is unscrewed to the edge of the fastener and ironed (Fig. 58, b).

Admin 2012-05-17 at 5:28 pm

Hello, friends.

The processing of a sleeve with a cuff usually begins with the processing of a cut for threading the arm - slots.

On men's shirts, the fastener can be located in the seam of the sleeve.

And if the sleeve is one-piece, then the incision is processed.

In sewing technology, perhaps, cuffs in a men's shirt are the most difficult among other products. Therefore, today we will process a slot in a sleeve with a cuff of a men's shirt.

Necessary additional cut details:

Top bar

bottom bar

Adhesive top and bottom rails

The adhesive pad may not be used if the fabric is dense and well obeyed. For example, cotton or linen.

If the shirt is sewn from silk, then the duplication of the straps can be partial - half the width of the strap. As in our case.

What is the bottom bar? (Figure 3)

This is a rectangle of fabric, the share thread is located along the part.

The size depends on the length of the clasp itself.

In order to calculate the size of the length of the lower bar, it is necessary to add: the length of the fastener in finished form is 12 cm + the processing allowance for the upper cut of the bar is 0.7 cm + the allowance for the lower cut for ease of processing is 1 cm.

Total: 13.7 cm.

Figure 3 shows a diagram of the calculation of the lower bar.

The finished placket width in our case is 1.4 cm. When calculating the placket width, you need to take into account which fastener - on buttons or buttons and take into account the diameter of the button.

The width of the lower bar in the cut is equal to twice the width of the finished bar.

2.8 cm + 0.7 cm seam allowances on both sides. The total width of the part for the plank is 4.2 cm.

The upper part of the lower bar is duplicated with an adhesive pad (Fig. 3).

The upper strap of the sleeve fastener (Fig. 4).

It is slightly more complex in form. The share thread can run both along the part and diagonally. Depends on the pattern of the fabric and on the chosen model.

The upper part of the plank is longer than the bottom by the value of the cape with which the plank ends. The length of the lower part of the upper strap is equal to the length of the lower strap of the sleeve fastener.

The scheme for calculating the dimensions of the upper bar is given in Fig. 4. The total width is 6.2 cm. The upper part of the upper bar is duplicated with an adhesive pad, in this example, partially (Fig. 4).

Marking the location of the fastener on the sleeve.

Figure 5 shows how to mark the location of the fastener on the sleeve from the wrong side.

Cut out the part of the fastener in the form of a rectangle.

But this parameter may vary depending on the width of the fastener straps, on the width of the processing allowances, on the location of the upper and lower straps relative to each other.

Processing of the lower strap of the sleeve fastener.

Lay an auxiliary line with a seam 0.6 cm wide along the lateral (longitudinal) cut of the upper part of the lower bar (line No. 1 in Fig. 6).

Iron the plank in half, aligning the side cuts of the part.

Iron the side cut of the upper part of the lower bar by 0.7 cm along the auxiliary line.

Top plate processing.

Iron the top bar in half, aligning the side cuts of the part.

Iron the side cut of the upper part of the top bar by 0.7 cm, iron the side cuts of the top bar in the cape area by 0.7 cm according to the template.

Pre-notch the cape allowance to the fold line of the bar (Fig. 7).

Attaching straps to sleeves.

Stitch the lower parts of the slats to the sleeve, aligning the front side of the slats with the wrong side of the sleeve, with a seam 0.7 wide (lines 2 and 3 in Fig. 1, 2, 8).

The stitching lines do not reach the upper cuts of the slats by 0.7 cm. Notch the sleeve allowance at the top of the fastener at an angle to the stitching lines of the slats, not reaching the lines of 0.1-0.2 cm.

Sew the upper part of the lower bar onto the main part along the ironed edge with a seam 0.1-0.2 cm wide (line 4 in Fig. 1,2,8).

Fasten the upper allowances of the sleeve fastener with a through stitch, grinding off the notched section of the main part, two parts of the lower bar and the lower part of the upper bar.

The fastening line must be laid along the lower part of the upper bar from the wrong side with a seam 0.7 cm wide (line 5 in Fig. 8). Iron the knot.

Mark the position of the horizontal line on the front side of the upper part of the upper bar (Fig. 2). It should be located 0.2-0.3 cm below line 5 (Fig. 8).

Lay a line along the fold of the upper strap of the fastener (line 6 in Fig. 1.2) with a seam 0.1-0.2 cm wide to the level of the horizontal line (up to the * icon in Fig. 1.2).

Sew the upper part of the upper bar to the main part, closing the stitching seam of the bar and the seam of fastening the bars at the top of the fastener.

Stitch: along the ironed side edge, along the cape of the strap to the level of the horizontal line, then unfold the product on the needle and lay a horizontal line.

Lay the stitching line with a seam 0.1-0.2 cm wide (line 7 in Fig. 1.2), lay the horizontal line along the outlined line (from the * icon to line 7 in Fig. 1.2).

Pull the ends of the threads of the line to the wrong side, tie in knots, fill. Iron the cuff of the sleeve. Next, the cuff is processed.

The described method of processing fasteners is also used in the processing of children's products - the neck of shirts and in women's products when processing the bodice.

There are many ways making a cut or slots on the sleeve. If it is very narrow, you need such an incision so that the hand can pass through. However, the slit and vent can be a decoration or a style element - for example, on the sleeve of a classic jacket. A sleeve with a wide cuff always has a slit. But before making a cut or slot, you need to check the length of the sleeve.

Clean cut cut

This incision is made on sleeves with cuffs in cases where the edges of the incision do not overlap and the cuff has an allowance for the fastener (1). To process the incision, you will need a strip of fabric (= facing), cut along the equity thread, 4 cm wide and 4 cm longer than the finished incision. Lay a running thread on the sleeve along the line marked CUT. Pin the piping to the sleeve over the cut mark right side to the right side (2). From the wrong side of the sleeve, lay along the line on both sides of the marking close to it, lay 2-3 transverse stitches at the upper end.

Make a cut between the stitches, at the end of the cut into the corners make oblique notches (3). Sweep the facing on the wrong side. Iron the edges of the cut, stitch to the edge (4). Sew over the edges of the facing with a zigzag stitch or, tucking it, pin it and stitch it to the edge.

INTERESTING OPTION

The facing simultaneously acts as a plank. To do this, stitch the facing with the front side to the wrong side of the sleeve, make a cut, unscrew the facing to the front side, fold and stitch (5).

Obtachny cut

This type of incision is most often performed on the sleeves of blouses and shirts. The edges of the cuff coincide with the edges of the incision (6).

To process the cut, you will need a strip of fabric 2 times longer than the cut and 4 times wider than the finished facing.

For soft, thin fabrics, cut the strip in the direction of the grain thread, and for dense, thick fabrics, such as poplin or flannel, cut the strip along the bias.

Cut the sleeve along the cut line. Lay the edges of the cut in a straight line and stitch to the facing right side to the right side close to the cut. In this case, at the end of the cut, marked with an arrow, lay a line almost at the cut (7). Iron the seam allowances on the facing. Iron the other longitudinal section of the facing so that the distance from the fold to the stitching seam is twice the width of the finished facing (8). Fold the seam in half wrong side inside and pin to the sewing seam (9). Sew the piping by hand or sew on the right side of the sleeve close to the seam, while grabbing the inner half of the piping. At the top end of the slit, stitch the piping diagonally, like a small tuck. At the front edge of the cut - this is the edge located further from the side cut of the sleeve - turn the facing to the wrong side, pin (10). At the rear edge of the cut, the facing acts as an allowance for the fastener.

Classic slit sleeve men's shirt

In such slots, the edges of the cuff coincide with the edges of the slots (11). Its peculiarity is that the slots of the right and left sleeves are symmetrical. For this slot, the basic rule applies: the edge of the slot, which lies closer to the seam of the sleeve, serves as an allowance for the fastener.

Cut out a strip of fabric for facing in the direction of the shared thread: twice as wide as the finished facing, plus allowances for the seams and 5 cm longer than the marked line of the slots.

Cut the sleeve along the marked line of the slots, for the allowance for the fastener, make oblique notches at the end of the slots to a depth of 0.5 cm. Fold the facing along the right side inward. Stitch the upper sections to the desired width of the facing, then sew the longitudinal sections with a single line for a length of 3 cm. Pin at the end of the seam.

Notch the seam allowance close to the last stitch, cut the seam allowance close to stitch (13). Turn the trim inside out and iron.

Sew the fold to the edge from the bottom up, not reaching 3 cm to the end of the facing. Sew the outer half of the facing close to the front raw edge of the slots right side to the right side (14). Notch the seam allowance of the sleeve at the end of the seam close to the last stitch. Iron the seam allowances on the facing. Turn the inner half of the facing over and baste it to the stitching seam (15). On the right side of the sleeve, stitch the piping along the joining seam close to the seam, while topstitching the inner half of the piping. Next, continuing the line, sew the upper end of the facing to the sleeve. Then, at the end of the slots, stitch the piping crosswise (16).

IMPORTANT: the illustrations show the slot of the right sleeve. On the left sleeve, make a slot in a mirror image.

Fake slot, or slot made with a steering wheel

This is the easiest and fastest way to make splines (17). It is performed on short sleeves and 3/4 length sleeves, as well as on sleeves with figured cuffs.

The slot is processed without a cut. Cut the allowance along the lower cut of the sleeve twice in the area of ​​the slots close to the marked seam line (18). The distance between notches is approx. 4-5 cm. Iron the allowance between the notches on the wrong side, tuck and stitch to the edge (19) or sew by hand. When sewing off the cuff, grab the narrow edges of the slot allowances.

Sleeve slit

When the lower edge of a long sleeve with a longitudinal tuck is not wide enough for the arm to pass through, then an incision is made in the tuck. This slit fastens with a zipper or buttons with air loops.

ZIP PIECE

Mark the beginning of the cut on the tuck with a cross mark. Fold the sleeve with the right side inward so that the lines of the tuck line up. Baste the tuck, while also basting the edges of the cut like a seam.

Stitch the tuck from the cross mark to the top. Bartack at the beginning and end of the seam. Notch the tuck 1 cm above the mark almost to the line and cut in the middle from the bottom to the notch (1). Iron the seam allowances, iron the tuck flat. Trim the seam allowances to a width of approx. 1.5-2 cm (2), overcast.

Remove the running thread from the incision. Cover the edges of the cut. Sew the zipper under the edges of the cut from the marked line of the bottom edge.

Sew the ends of the zip fasteners to the tuck. Fold along the bottom of the sleeve. Sew the allowance to the straps of the zipper (3).

AIR LOOP FASTENING

Sew the loops to the front edge of the slit - the one that is further from the sleeve seam. For the front edge of the incision, you will need to cut out a facing (strip of fabric) in the direction of the lobar thread with a width of approx. 3 cm and 2 cm longer than the cut. For air loops, cut a strip of fabric along the bias. How to perform air loops, you can read in a separate article. In addition, you will also need two strips of non-woven interlining, cut along the bias, approx. 2 cm and a length equal to the length of the incision.

On the right and left sleeves is performed symmetrically.

Mark the length of the cut on the tuck. Cut the tuck from the bottom to the cut mark to a depth of 0.5 cm from the front line of the tuck. For the closure allowance, draw another line from the end of the cut to the bottom of the sleeve at the same distance to the other line of the tuck. Make a cut along this line. At the top to the middle of the allowance for the fastener, make a transverse notch. From the right side of the sleeve, iron the interlining strips along the front edge of the slit over the marked seam line, for a closure allowance along the tuck line (4).

Baste chain loops to the front edge of the opening, right side to the right side.

Pin the facing over the loops right side to the right side, stitch from the cut mark (5). Turn the top edge of the facing down, pin (6). Stitch the tuck from the cut mark. Bartack (7) at the beginning and end of the seam. Unscrew the facing to the wrong side. Baste the edge of the cut.

For the closure allowance, fold the back edge of the slit to the wrong side at a distance of 1 cm from the intended tuck line. Iron the edges, iron the tuck to the front cut of the sleeve (8).

Sew the seam of the sleeve. Remove running threads from the incision. Hem the bottom of the sleeve.

Peel off the slit and sew a tuck at the top end of the slit. Sew the buttons to the closure allowance.

Double seam sleeve

This vent is made on the sleeves of blazers, jackets and suit jackets. There are two options for slots in a two-seam sleeve: classic, in which a real slot is made, and fake, in which the slot is only a decorative detail.

CLASSIC SLEEVE SLEEVE

Open vent at the bottom of the sleeve. The upper part of the sleeve is cut together with the facing of the slots, the lower part of the sleeve is cut with an allowance for the slot with the facing.

Sew the front seam of the sleeve first. Iron the seam allowances. Iron the interlining to the lower cut of the sleeve (hem) and to the facings.

Baste the elbow sections of the sleeve, at the same time sweep the slot. Sew a seam from the top to the slot mark. Bartack at the beginning and end of the seam. Leave the slot sour cream (1). Notch the seam allowance of the bottom of the sleeve into the corner obliquely close to the stitching line (2). Iron the seam allowances from above to the notch. Iron the seam allowances towards the top of the sleeve. On the allowance for the slot, iron the piping (3).

Remove the running threads from the slots. Perform a hem along the lower cut of the sleeve, while at the ends of the slots, process the corners with an “envelope”. At the top end of the vent, stitch the allowance under the vent to the facing of the upper part of the sleeve (4). Sew on the buttons, while grabbing the allowance under the slot.

IMPORTANT: if loops are provided on the sleeve, they are performed on the upper part of the sleeve before the allowance for the slot is sewn to the facing.

In this case, the facing of the sleeve should be wide enough so that it can be grabbed when sewing buttonholes. Stitches are sewn before sewing the lower sections of the sleeve (= elbow seam).

Sleeves are closed at the bottom. The upper part of the sleeve is cut along with the facing, the lower part of the sleeve is cut along with the allowance for the slot.

Baste the elbow sections of the sleeve, sweep the slot. Sew the seam of the sleeve from the top to the slot mark. Bartack at the beginning and end of the seam. Leave the slot sour cream for now.

Sew the top and side cuts of the allowance for the slot and facing. Cut the seam allowance of the lower part of the sleeve into the corner close to the stitching line (5). Iron the seam allowances from above to the notch, iron the slots allowance onto the upper part of the sleeve. Iron the seam allowances. Fold along the bottom of the sleeve.

Remove the running threads from the slots. At the bottom edge of the sleeve, sew the edges of the slots (6). Sew on the buttons, grabbing the seam allowance.

For cuffs that do not fasten well around the wrist, an incision is made in the lower part of the sleeve so that the arm passes freely. It is very easy to bend or veneer the cuts on the cuffs with slats. Processing with a long placket running along both sides of the slit gives the sleeve a very neat look; the slit is not visible when the sleeve is buttoned up. The most difficult in tailoring is the cut, which is processed by a curly bar - in particular, such cuffs are made on men's shirts. Cuffs with this type of slit are usually combined with other tailored details - epaulettes, fastener strips, etc.

Sleeve slits

Turned sleeve slit

A very narrowly folded slit can be used to fasten cuffs cut from two or one piece.

Long placket at sleeve slit

Such a plank is cut obliquely. It is trimmed with cuts for the fastener of the cuffs, cut from two or one piece.

Figured placket on the cut of the sleeve

A plank with a figured corner can be tailored from one piece or from two - top and bottom. When the cuff is buttoned, the sharp end of the bar is visible from the front side.

Sleeve hem

The most commonly used type of incision processing for any cuff, including.

Both sides of such a cut are processed with a narrow double hem, coming to naught. The hem is scribbled on a typewriter, processing can be done very quickly. The hemmed front edge of the incision is folded over to the wrong side before sewing on the cuff. When the sleeve is buttoned up, one side of the slit covers the other, hiding the machine stitching.

Hemming the sleeve cut with a rectangular bar is the easiest way to process. The cut edges of the strap can be folded over and stitched to the sleeve after the cut has already been processed. The edges of the strap are also processed with a hem or "zigzag" after cutting it out, and then stitched to the cut. In this case, there are no extra lines of stitching on the front side of the sleeve.

1. Bend inside out 6 mm each from two long and one short edges of a rectangular strip for facing and baste. Pin the placket over the cut line of the sleeve with the right side inward and mark the location of the cut on it with chalk or a basting.
2. Start stitching from the edge of the sleeve, from the bottom, stitch 3 mm from the intended cut line, bevel at a cone 2 cm from the top point of the cut (corner). Turn in the opposite direction, making one stitch across the corner. Turn back and sew along the other side of the slit.
3. Make a cut between the two stitch lines. Turn the plank inside out. Slightly shift the seam to the wrong side and iron it with an iron. Pin across the edge of the placket to the sleeve.
4. Sew the edges of the placket to the sleeve very close to the hem. Turn around at each corner and remove all pins as you go. When finished, remove the basting and iron.

Accurate processing of the cut with a long, cut along an oblique, narrow bar is used on the sleeves of clothes made of any fabrics, including transparent ones. Only on products made of thick bulky fabrics is it better not to use such processing due to the fact that the cut will turn out to be too dense and the bar will bristle.

1. For the placket, cut a strip of fabric 3 cm wide and twice the length of the cut. Bend 6 mm along the long sections of the strip.
2. With a line with small stitches, sew 6 mm from the line of the future cut, beveling at a cone 2 cm from its upper point (corner). Turn back and stitch across the corner. Turn in the opposite direction, stitch along the other side of the cut. Make a cut with scissors to the very corner.
3. Unfold one ironed side of the plank and pin to the edge of the cut with right sides together. Align the reinforcing stitch with the ironed fold line of the plank. Baste manually. Machine stitch along the outside of the reinforcement stitch.

Or long sleeve, long sleeve and cuffs, what do these products have in common?

One of the common features of all these products is the processing of the cut of the sleeve.

The cuts of the sleeves can be processed in different ways - facing, oblique trim, two facing, placket, etc.

Beautiful processing of the cut of the sleeve will undoubtedly draw attention to your product.

Consider the processing of the cut of the sleeves using an acute-angled bar. This is not the easiest way, but the cut processed with such a bar looks great.

To cut the sleeve, you must first prepare the bottom of the sleeve and the details of the strap.

For this you need:

1. Mark the seam lines along the bottom line of the sleeve;
2. Mark the lines of stitching and matching the strap;
3. Outline the cut lines;
4. As well as lines of folds (if they are on the model).
5. On the placket of the sleeves, contours and fold lines should be noted. It is better to outline the lines using

For edging the rear edges of the incision, you need to cut out two 2.5-3.0 cm wide and about 4-5 cm long longer than the incision mark.

The sequence of processing the cut of the sleeves with an acute-angled bar.

1. On the bar, iron the allowances along the cuts of the acute-angled end to the wrong side.
2. Fold the bar along the fold line, wrong side inward and iron the allowances to the top
3. Unfold the plank again. On the allowance, make a notch in the corner close to the marked seam line.
   
   
4. Press seam allowances along the top crosscut and along the short side seam on the wrong side. The plank is ready. (Fig. 1, 2)
5. Cut the sleeve along the cut mark.
6. Pin the edging trim to the back edge of the cut (closer to the side cut of the sleeve) with the right side to the front side, stitch at a distance of 0.7 cm. At the same time, finish the line at the top by 0.7 cm. above the end of the cut. Bartack at the beginning and end of the seam. (Fig. 3)
   
7. Run a notch from the wrong side of the sleeve from the end of the cut to the last stitch obliquely, without grabbing the edging trim. (Fig. 4)
8. Iron the seam allowances on the inlay. Iron the open longitudinal section of the inlay on the wrong side, to a width of 0.7 cm. (Fig. 5)
9. Fold the edging trim in half, pin over the stitching seam, sew to the edge. (Fig. 6)
   
10. Pin the bar to the front edge of the cut (corresponding to the place where the bar was attached) right side to the front side, stitch. (Fig. 7)
11. On the sleeve, make a notch from the wrong side from the end of the cut up obliquely, without grabbing the bar. (Fig. 8)
    
    
12. Turn the seam allowances at the upper end of the cut to the front side of the sleeve. Turn the top edge of the edging inlay to the front side as well. (Fig. 9)
13. Iron the bar above the stitching seam and pin the upper end along the markings. (Fig. 10)
    
14. Fold the plank along the fold line, pin above the stitching seam, stitch the plank along the seam close to the seam, while grabbing the inner half of the plank. (Fig. 11)
    
15. Sew the upper end of the strap along the marked transverse line. (fig.12)

This processing method is not the easiest, but the cut of the sleeve, processed with an acute-angled bar, looks impressive.