20.11.2022

Women's perfume. Perfume concentration - what is the difference and which is better What French perfumes are made of


Women's perfume is a perfume product, the composition of which consists of a combination of several fragrances. The composition includes components such as water, alcohol, essential oils and various extracts.

Perfumes are characterized by high odor resistance: the concentration of aromatic substances is in the range of 15-30%, while in eau de parfum this figure does not exceed 20%, and in 10%.

Types, aromas and composition of women's perfumes

By appointment:

  • day;
  • everyday;
  • evening.

By the quality of the extracts included in the composition:

  • Luxury perfumes. Contains only natural ingredients.
  • Class "A". The use of synthetic or synthesized ingredients within 10% is allowed.
  • Class "B". Semi-synthetic or synthetic raw materials are used for the manufacture of licensed copies of luxury perfumes, which are produced by Turkey and Syria, the United Arab Emirates, Russia and Canada, Ukraine and Sweden.
  • Class "C". Inexpensive synthetic extracts are used.

Floral

To create floral perfumes, extracts are used:

  • violets,
  • roses,
  • carnations,
  • lilies,
  • lily of the valley
  • mimosa,
  • gardenia;
  • daffodil,
  • jasmine, etc.

Flower extracts give the perfume freshness and sweetness, floral perfume can be used throughout the year.

Citrus

To create citrus aromatic compositions, pomace is used:

  • lime,
  • orange,
  • grapefruit,
  • lemon,
  • tangerine,
  • bergamot.

Citrus perfumes are characterized by lightness and freshness. It is appropriate to use such perfumes both in winter and in summer, for solemn events.

Chypre

The basis of chypre spirits are:

  • patchouli;
  • bergamot;
  • sage;
  • oak moss;
  • resin;
  • incense.

Chypre women's perfume This is a winter perfume. The fragrance combines revitalizing freshness and a delicate note of sweetness.

Greens

Green perfume contains essential oils of leaves and herbal plants combined with notes of bergamot, lavender, lemon, coumarin, juniper. Characterized by an invigorating, cool aroma.

Wine glass

Fougère aroma compositions are distinguished by astringency and the presence of a slight bitterness. The dominant substance is synthesized coumarin. Complementary compositional components are:

  • geranium,
  • lavender,
  • tree moss,
  • bergamot.

floriental

The floral oriental perfume family is a subspecies of floral compositions. At the head of the composition is the smell of sandalwood, amber, musk, apricot, combined with exotic floral notes of jasmine, osmanthus, gardenia, freesia, orange blossom.

fruity

The key component of the perfume is the essence of fruits. To create fruit perfumes, extracts from pineapples, apricots, apples, papaya, citrus fruits are used. The composition of the perfume may include notes of wild berries - blackberries, strawberries, as well as floral scents.

Marine

Synthetic fragrances imitating the smell of the sea, mountain air, ocean breeze. Sea spirits give a feeling of coolness.

Amber

Amber or oriental perfumes contain exotic notes, characterized by a thick sweet smell. Suitable for temperamental women. Amber perfumes are based on resinous substances, essential oils and oriental spices.

Spicy

At the heart of the spicy composition:

  • ginger;
  • carnation;
  • cardamom;
  • cinnamon;
  • pepper.

Spicy perfumes are appropriate to use in the cool season, the aromatic agent gives a feeling of tenderness and warmth.

Aldehyde

Aldehydes, which are the basis for perfumes of the aldehyde family, are synthesized odors created exclusively with the help of chemical compounds. When heated, aldehydes open and intensify aromas, making the smell more intense and bright.

Leather

The composition of leather perfumes includes birch bark extract, juniper oil, tobacco notes. Perfume recreates the smell of leather, suede, tobacco smoke and burnt wood.

woody

The woody family includes scents based on essential oils of musk, cedar wood, iris, rose bush, and myrtle. Wood spirits are characterized by astringency and sharpness. Suitable for women who love men's perfumes.

The main benefits of perfume are:

  • high concentration of aromatic oils and extracts;
  • odor resistance;
  • economical consumption (it is enough to apply a couple of drops of perfume on the skin).

The only drawback of perfume, in comparison with other types of perfume products for women, is the high cost.

How to choose women's perfume

The aroma of any perfume consists of three notes:

  • primary;
  • cardiac;
  • basic.

The top note is the smell that is felt immediately after the scented liquid is applied to the skin.

The top smell of a perfume consists of rapidly evaporating components and is usually felt for no more than 10 minutes.

The note "heart" is revealed in 10-15 minutes after applying the perfume and is heard for one to two hours.

The base notes are the final smell of the perfume, which appears after contact of the composition with the skin and is felt for several hours. When choosing a perfume, do not rush, it is better to wait until the perfume reveals the base notes.

To correctly assess the smell of perfume:

  • Spray your favorite perfume on the blotter, wait a couple of minutes and inhale the fragrance.
  • If you like the aroma composition of the perfume, sprinkle a couple of drops on your wrist, wait a while and inhale the scent again.
  • For one trip to the store, you should not smell more than three perfumes.

A bottle of perfume can serve as a kind of hint for women when choosing a perfume. Lovers of herbal and marine aromatic compositions should pay attention to transparent bottles of a bluish or greenish tint.

Flower-fruity compositions are often sold in pink, yellow, red or lilac bottles. Dark-colored containers tend to contain woody, bitter aromas.

Before buying women's perfume, carefully study the packaging:

  • packaging of high-quality perfumes is made of thick white cardboard;
  • cellophane wrapper should not be damaged or wrinkled;
  • perfume packaging must contain information about the country of origin and a barcode;
  • The expiration date of the perfume must be indicated on the packaging.

When choosing perfume products, it is important to consider:

  • woman age,
  • season,
  • purpose of perfume.

Fragrance selection by age:

  • The best choice for young girls under the age of 25 are simple floral-fruity scents with citrus notes.
  • For women of the middle age group from 25 to 45, perfumes of the chypre family are ideal - sweetish aroma compositions based on patchouli, rosewood, sage.
  • An ideal choice for mature ladies - tart and rich aromas of the aldehyde family.

Choice by time of year:

  • Summer - light, refreshing aroma compositions with fruity, floral or citrus notes will serve as the best choice.
  • Autumn - rich tart aromas with spicy notes of spices and citrus.
  • Winter - warm sweet smells with bitterness, belonging to the oriental group.
  • Spring - invigorating and refreshing fruit and flower compositions with green notes will be the best option.

Choice by destination:

  • The best option for everyday use is a light, unobtrusive and fresh fragrance.
  • Ideal daytime fragrances contain floral scents, citrus notes and a slight vanilla scent.
  • Evening perfume should be distinguished by a rich sweetish plume aroma.

How to use

  • Spray perfume on a clean body after taking a warm shower. Moisturized skin will retain the smell of perfume longer.
  • If the perfume product is equipped with a sprayer, then to apply the perfume, move the bottle away from the body by 1-2 centimeters.

In the absence of a sprayer, press your finger to the neck and turn the bottle upside down, remove a few drops from the container and apply to the skin with light movements, do not rub the perfume into the skin.

  • Do not abuse perfume, apply perfume in the morning, if necessary, add a couple of drops of perfume to the skin throughout the day.
  • Do not apply perfume under the armpits to mask the smell of sweat.

To make the smell last longer, apply perfume to certain areas of the body:

  • on elbow bends;
  • on the pulsating vein on the wrist;
  • on the neck;
  • by the ears;
  • on the chest;
  • under the knees.

It is enough to choose two places for applying perfume.

  • Perfumes should be stored at room temperature.
  • Avoid direct sunlight on the vial.
  • Do not store perfume near heat sources - electrical appliances.
  • The condition of the perfume is negatively affected by high humidity, so you should not store perfume in the bathroom.
  • Perfumes can only be stored in an upright position.
  • Make sure that the lid of the perfume is tightly closed.
  • If perfume is used extremely rarely, store the product in .
  • Do not use a spoiled perfume product, such perfume can cause allergic reactions. The following factors serve as a sign that the perfume has become unusable: the color of the perfume has changed, the perfume has thickened, sediment has appeared at the bottom of the bottle.

Manufacturers of women's perfumes

Armand Basi perfumes contain woody ingredients and notes of Mediterranean freshness. To create collections, Armand Basi developers use natural aromatic components.

Perfume is sold in stylish bottles and packaging, which are distinguished by clear geometric lines. A characteristic feature of the Armand Basi brand is the paired release of perfumes - for women and men.

British tailoring company outerwear, launched the production of perfumery products in 1981. Perfumes for women contain flower and fruit compositions.

The individuality of Burberry perfume products is also emphasized by the design of the bottles. All bottles contain the famous cage, which indicates belonging to the famous British brand.

Today, the Burberry perfume line includes more than 30 fragrances, the most famous products are:

  • Burberry Weekend - evening perfume is ideal for women aged 20-26 and 35-45 years. Top notes are a floral composition of hyacinth, cyclamen, mignonette, framed by mandarin and sage.

The heart notes of the perfume are a fruity-floral combination of peach, nectarine, iris and rosehip. The base notes reveal sandalwood, cedarwood and musk.

  • Burberry Touch - the product belongs to the family of floral-green fragrances, it is a warm winter perfume. Top notes include blackberry, cranberry, blackcurrant and orange combined with rose oil and red pepper.

Heart notes are peony, lily, raspberry, jasmine, lily of the valley, peach and tuberose. Base notes are green almond, oak moss, vanilla, tonka bean and white cedar.

  • Burberry Brit is a floral-fruity fragrance. The top of the perfume pyramid is represented by the aroma of mandarin and pineapple leaves, yuzu and lychee.

Heart notes are peach blossom, peony and pear. The base of the pyramid is represented by scents of white musk and light woods.

The Bvlgari line of women's perfumes includes five series:

  • Goldea is a perfume series with an oriental floral composition, the main note of the perfume is musk, complemented by the freshness of bergamot, the sweetness of raspberries, the astringency of jasmine and the spice of ylang-ylang.

The composition of the Goldea series is complemented by notes of patchouli and Egyptian papyrus.

  • Jasmin Noir - ambery aroma compositions with floral and woody notes, created on the basis of the jasmine flower.
  • Omnia is a series of exotic feminine fragrances, the composition includes a cocktail of various components - nutmeg, cinnamon, cardamom, saffron, cloves and other spices, white chocolate, pepper and sandalwood, lotus flowers and tangerine.
  • Aqwa Divina is a series of fresh fragrances filled with the smell of sea salt crystals combined with notes of bergamot, magnolia, red ginger, beeswax.
  • The Сlassics is a series of classic floral perfumes.

The Chanel brand is a legendary French company with a century of history. Today, the catalog of the world-famous brand contains more than a hundred fragrant compositions. One of the most popular products of the Chanel fashion house is perfume number five.

Chanel No. 5 - aldehyde perfume with floral notes of jasmine, lily of the valley and rose, the fragrant composition also includes sandalwood, vanilla, lemon, bergamot and amber.

No less popular perfume products of the brand:

  • Coco Mademoiselle is a floral composition of May rose, jasmine and Florentine iris.
  • Chanel Chance is a perfume that first appeared in the product line of the Chanel brand in 2003. The compositions are based on white musk, amber patchouli, pink pepper and iris, jasmine, vetiver, vanilla and hyacinth, pineapple and citrus, cedar.

Today there are three modifications of Chanel Chance perfumes - Classic, Fraiche and Tendre. Chanel Classic is a light, refreshing fragrance designed for women under the age of 30.

Chanel Fraiche - perfume for respectable business women. Chanel Tendre is a delicate fruity-floral fragrance.

  • Chanel Allure is an aromatic product based on citron and mandarin, diluted with oriental notes of magnolia, jasmine, honeysuckle, water lily and May rose, combined with notes of vanilla and vetiver.

Today, Christian Dior perfume products rank fourth in the world in terms of the number of sales in the designated segment. The company's line includes more than 100 fragrances.

The Dior fragrance collection contains perfumes for sophisticated ladies as well as young girls. Perfume of a well-known brand is characterized by a persistent, memorable smell.

The catalog of the Christian Dior perfume house includes several series of women's perfumes:

  • Dior Cruise Collection - a group of fougere fragrances;
  • Dior Addict Collection - a collection of oriental floral compositions;
  • Dior Passage Collection - a series of perfumes of the floral family;
  • Dior J`Adore Collection - a group of fruit and flower aroma compositions;
  • Les Creations de Monsieur Dior is a collection of floral arrangements.

The company is the founder of the fashion for mono-flavors. Perfume Demeter Fragrance Library has a well-defined scent.

The collection of the American company has more than 200 extraordinary fragrances: perfume with the smell of strawberry ice cream, laundry, earth, thunderstorms, coffee, waffles, dust, funeral home, green grass and more.

Demeter Fragrance Library uses environmentally friendly natural ingredients to produce mono-flavors. Perfumes do not use artificial colors, synthetic binders and emulsifiers.

Escada, a company that specializes in tailoring high-quality and sophisticated yet affordable clothing, launched its first fragrance in 1990. Today, the Escada perfume line includes several series of perforated and eau de toilette:

  • Escada Magnetism is a sensual and sophisticated fragrance of blackcurrant, rose, coconut and caramel.
  • Especially Escada is a bright perfume with a floral hue, the base component is musk, diluted with rose and pear aromas.
  • Escada Joyful is a light feminine fragrance based on honeycomb, pink peony and blackcurrant sherbet.

Givenchy is a company known in the world of fashion, cosmetics and perfumery. The Givenchy fashion house released the first perfume for women in 1957. Today, the line of women's fragrances is represented in the company's catalog by six collections:

  • L`atelier de Givenchy - the collection consists of ten bright exotic fragrances that evoke an association with the fashion creations of the Givenchy fashion house.
  • Play - consists of two floral-woody perfumes with fruity notes.
  • Eaudemoiselle is one of the new perfumes in the Givenchy line, created in 2010. Today, the Eaudemoiselle collection is represented by one fruity-floral fragrance.

  • Dahlia - the series includes the floral fragrance Dahlia Noir, the floral-chypre Dahlia Divin, the woody-floral Dahlia Noir Eau de Toilette and the floral-oriental Dahlia Divin Le Nectar de Parfum.
  • Very Irresistible is a series of romantic sweet floral-fruity fragrances.
  • Ange ou Demon is a legendary collection of chypre floral fragrances.

The French trading house Hermes launched its first fragrance in 1950. The debut perfume in the unisex style became a new milestone in the history of the company. Today, the Hermes brand's women's perfume line includes more than thirty fragrances.

The most prominent representatives of the perfume collection of the Hermes trading house are:

  • Hermes 24 Faubourg - the product appeared in the Hermes line in 1995 and received wide recognition among women, the rich floral-chypre fragrance was awarded five perfumery Oscars.
  • Eau des Merveilles is a light fragrance for young romantic women, based on orange and lemon combined with Indonesian and pink pepper, cedar, vetiver, resin, oak extract and amber.

A feature of the fragrance is the 100% absence of floral components.

  • Hermes Amazone is a perfume created in 1974 and has not lost its popularity today. Hermes Amazone belongs to the group of aldehyde fragrances, the composition contains floral, woody and fruity notes.

Perfumes from the eminent brand Hugo Boss have been on the perfume market since 1997. The line of women's fragrances from Hugo Boss includes several series:

  • Hugo Woman are sophisticated and elegant fragrances belonging to the fruity-floral family. The composition is based on jasmine, lily, melon, green apple, cyclamen and papaya, base notes are vanilla and sandalwood.
  • Runway Edition is a series of floral plume fragrances, which consists of three perfumes - classic evening Nuit, light everyday Jour and spring-summer Ma Vie.
  • Boss Orange - floral-oriental bewitching aromas.

The fruity note of the perfume is represented by sweet apple, combined with musk, the floral composition is formed by jasmine and neroli, the base composition consists of sandalwood, vanilla and olive wood.

  • Boss Nuit is a delicate and elegant fragrance that harmoniously combines the fruity sweetness of peach, aldehyde, the fragrance of jasmine, violet and white roses, woody notes of sandalwood and oak moss.

Kenzo

The Japanese company Kenzo opened the production of perfume products in 1987, today the perfume line includes more than a hundred fragrances for women and men. The Kenzo women's collection is represented by the following fragrances:

  • Madli Kenzo is an incredible combination of orange blossom and pink pepper, complemented by the fragrance of rose and heliotrope, vanilla, musk and cedar. Incense brings a magical mysterious charm to the aroma composition.
  • Kenzo Amour is a floral and fruity romantic fragrance.
  • Kenzo Jungle is a spicy aroma bouquet for self-confident women, the aromatic composition is represented by a combination of such components as mandarin and patchouli, cumin, cardamom and exotic mango.

  • Kenzo Flower is a series of floral fragrant compositions, in the line of perfumes, flowers of rose, peony, lilac, cherry, pear, freesia, jasmine are used as heart notes.
  • L`eau Kenzo is an invigorating and refreshing aromatic composition created by combining a white lotus flower with a juicy peach, wrapped in notes of white musk and cedar.

The perfume line of the French brand Lacoste includes more than twenty products.

Each scent has its own individual character. French Lacoste brand perfumers use sandalwood, hibiscus, freesia or jasmine flowers, and white musk to create the basis of compositions.

Lacoste perfumes for women are characterized by a persistent smell, invigorating and sensual aroma. Most of the collection of women's perfumes belong to the floral-fruity group of fragrances.

The French company Lancome specializes in the production of luxury perfumes.

The first line of perfumes was released in 1935, the collection consisted of five fragrances, today the Lancome perfume series includes a wide selection of fragrant compositions for women of different ages.

The company's products can be recognized by the characteristic logo in the form of a rose, which adorns all bottles of women's perfumes.

Popular products of the Lancome perfume series are:

  • Miracle Lancome flower collection;
  • Tresor Lancome collection of oriental gourmet fragrances;
  • women's perfume with oriental floral notes Magie Lancome;
  • A floral green fragrance by Climat Lancome.

Versace is an Italian company founded in 1978, specializing in the creation of fashion collections of clothes, exquisite accessories, luxury perfumes and other luxury goods.

Today, the line of products for women from the fashion house Versace is represented by the following perfumes:

  • Versace Bright Crystal is a floral-fruity composition with hints of musk.
  • Versace Bright Crystal Absolu is an updated version of the previous perfume, enriched with the smell of raspberry, lotus flower and peony.
  • Versace Wellov Diamont is a Mediterranean aromatic bouquet composed of musk, benzoin, pear sorbet, osmanthus and jasmine.

  • Versace Wellov Diamont Intense is an improved version of Yellow Diamond perfume.
  • Versace Eros Pour Femme is a delicious aromatic bouquet woven from a combination of lemon and jasmine with forest aromas, complemented by the taste of pomegranate, bergamot, peony petals.
  • Versace Oud Oriental is an oriental spicy bouquet of bitter orange, spicy black pepper, neroli, patchouli, saffron and cardamom framed with notes of incense.
  • Versace Couture is a haute couture perfume line consisting of four fragrances.


The world of modern perfumery is so diverse and attractive that many women are at a loss when choosing. Let's try to understand the gradation of perfumery by concentration. This will help you understand how they differ from each other and what is better - perfumes, eau de toilette, eau de parfum and cologne. What is important to know and what does concentration affect?

Composition of perfumery

All perfumes consist of the same components: alcohol, water and perfume composition. Volume concentration - the amount of perfume composition added per unit volume of the bottle. The higher the percentage added by manufacturers, the higher the concentration of the final product. Consider in the table what% of fragrant components have different types perfumes.

Cologne

Eau de Cologne is at the "lowest" level in terms of fragrant content. If you associate cologne with the brutal "Chipr", you are deeply mistaken.

Initially, this product appeared as a lighter version of women's famous fragrances after the perfume revolution at the end of the 19th century. Then perfumers began to use synthetic ingredients, which made it possible to significantly reduce the cost of fragrances.

Encouraged by the growth in demand, manufacturers began to produce light versions of the best perfumes with a concentration of up to 5%. At the same time, the main formula in the fragrance remained the same. Today, colognes are inferior to other types of perfumes only in durability, but for the summer this may be the best option.

Eau de Toilette

Once upon a time, toilet water was the only budgetary remedy that women could afford to smell good. The concentration of fragrant components of Eau de Toilette rarely exceeds 10%, but many famous brands prefer to produce products in this form. It is especially appreciated for its lightness, unobtrusiveness, reasonable cost. Available in different volumes: from 30 to 100 ml.

The disadvantages include low durability. This shortcoming can be easily corrected if you purchase a small bottle and keep it with you in your purse. By the way, you can maintain the fragrance of toilet water with deodorants, body creams, lotions and inexpensive skin care products with a lower concentration of perfume composition.

Eau de parfum

The product with the best combination of price and quality. Eau de parfum is an intermediate option between perfume and eau de toilette. Concentration up to 20%. Some manufacturers prefer to produce just this type of perfume, gradually replacing traditional perfumes.

Advantages of Eau de Parfum:

  • intense sound,
  • good durability.

The quality of eau de parfum is as close as possible to perfume, but it is easier to use due to a spray bottle, and a small bottle is convenient to carry with you.

Eau de toilette differs from eau de toilette in durability: if the first lasts only 2-3 hours, then Parfum de Toilette remains on the skin for up to 5 hours.

Another important difference is in the original formula. Eau de toilette can be fundamentally different from perfume water, and sound in a new way, if the concentration is made saturated. For example, a fragrance that sounds like light in the form of eau de toilette can open up differently in perfume water: it will fade into the background, and floral notes will come to the fore.

Perfume

Real jewels in the world of perfumery. Initially, all fragrances were produced in the form of perfumes, and later perfumers began to dilute the extracts, reducing the concentration. Eau de toilette was the first from diluted perfumes.

Perfume is not just the most expensive product, but also the most concentrated - the amount of fragrant substances in them is 20-30%. The difference between the extracts is in the density of the aroma and persistence - it opens slowly, but lasts for a long time. It happens that one drop applied to the wrist is felt for several days in a row.

Extrait is not available in large bottles - rarely, when the volume of the vial exceeds 15 ml. The price of perfumes is an order of magnitude higher than other types of perfumes, they are considered the most expensive products in the fragrance industry. Although many modern women prefer eau de parfum to perfume. It is more versatile in use and the fragrance is not as active.

Other types of concentration

Today, there are more and more so-called "side" products that manufacturers produce as an alternative to the usual perfumes:

  • Esprit de Parfum belongs to the rare category of perfumery. The concentration of aromatic oils is almost 30% - a cross between perfume and eau de parfum.
  • Eau de Parfum Intense - Eau de parfum with increased intensity. They contain from 12 to 25% fragrant components.
  • Rerfume Mist is a perfumed mist. Light version of perfumery, made without alcohol. The amount of aromatic substances does not exceed 3-8%.
  • Eau - the name of the label translates as water and means a very light aroma. Concentration 3%.
  • Deo Parfum or deodorant is a hygiene product with an aromatic effect. The amount of fragrant oils 3-5%. Considered a good option for hot summer days.
  • Lotion is a skin care product with a low concentration of odorous substances from 2 to 4%.

Perfume manufacturers are constantly expanding their line of light products, trying to anticipate the desires of customers as much as possible. You can find a care product for any exit from the house: to the beach, playing sports, to work in the office and going out, and always be surrounded by a halo of your favorite smell.

Endurance and concentration: do they depend on each other?

It is generally accepted that the higher the concentration, the more intense the effect of the perfume and the higher the durability. But there is another point of view. Chemists say that the main thing is not the amount of fragrant substances, but the chemical composition of the ingredients that perfumers use to create a fragrance.

Each element of a perfume composition is unique and contributes to the smell. The bergamot evaporates faster and the musk leaves a long aftertaste on the skin. An important role is played by the balance of ingredients: if the creator "overdoes" with individual components, the perfume smells sharp and repulsive. Conversely, a harmonious ensemble, even at low concentration, can be gentle and noble.

In addition, one cannot ignore the individual susceptibility of a person. The impact on durability can always have:

  • Skin type - it has been proven that the fatter the skin structure, the longer it retains the smell.
  • Air temperature - in summer, odors open faster, but also quickly evaporate. In winter, resistance is higher.
  • Smell - there are people who quickly get used to new smells and stop perceiving even the most intense perfumes within a day after purchase.

In any case, you should not try to compensate for quantity with quality. It is better to carry a bottle with your favorite scent with you, use products with a low concentration in order to correct its “aura” from time to time.

Let's summarize. In most cases, it is the concentration that becomes the guideline when choosing a fragrance. But, it is worth understanding that the amount of fragrant substances in the bottle is far from always a guarantee that the aroma will suit your taste.

See that the fragrance is harmonious and pleasant, listen to your heart and buy from stores you trust. Sooner or later you will find your fragrance and you will definitely feel the pleasure of the world of pleasant smells.




Aroma is a very subtle matter. Smell, the only one of our five senses, depends on the part of the brain in which emotions are born. We use metaphors to describe smells. Based on these ephemeral concepts, a powerful industry has grown - perfumery. How are perfumes made?

perfume base

Musk

An odorous secret obtained from the glands of the male musk deer - an animal of the roe deer family that lives on the high plateaus of Asia. Hunting for musk deer is prohibited, and the export of musk is strictly regulated. It is removed without killing the animal. Natural musk is a substance with a strong ammoniacal suffocating smell, and only after maturation in the form of an alcohol infusion, the smell acquires an unusual animal sensual note. Now perfumers have replaced natural musk with cheaper synthetic analogues.

Ambergris

A fragrant product that is formed in the intestines of sperm whales and regurgitated by them. After the ban on whale hunting, ambergris sometimes gets to perfumers from fishermen who find it in their nets. It is clear that this is a very rare ingredient that is used only in expensive perfumes.

Rose. rose oil

The rose oil with which Aphrodite anointed Hector's body is first mentioned by Homer. Rose petals are now treated with water vapor to extract the essential oil, or with solvents to obtain the absolute oil. Roses are harvested only at dawn, because the main enemy of the fragrance is the midday sun. Despite the success of the synthesis, it has not yet been possible to completely copy the complex smell of rose oil, therefore, as a rule, a natural product is included in the composition of perfumes.

Jasmine

Of the white flowers in perfumery, jasmine is most often used. But its production is constantly falling - it is very difficult to grow and collect these fragile flowers. Like the rose, jasmine is harvested before sunrise to prevent dew and heat from spoiling the precious flowers.

Lavender

With a wide and original range of fragrances, lavender has an unfair fate. Inextricably linked with the smell of clean linen, it is rarely used in perfumery. Today lavender is used in men's toilet water for the initial note of the smell, giving freshness to the composition.

Iris

The smell of oil from the rhizome is different from the smell of the flower and, oddly enough, resembles the scent of violets. Three years pass from the moment of planting the rhizome to harvest. It takes another three years to dry it. From one ton of orris root, 2 kg of a very expensive essential oil is obtained with a delicate and strong aroma that creates persistent floral and woody notes.

sandalwood

The list of perfumes using sandalwood oil is long. The tree and roots of Santalum album are steam distilled to produce an essential oil with a warm and mild scent.

Moss

Oak and tree moss allows you to obtain absolute oils by extraction - the necessary components of compositions with the smell of chypre and greenery.

Citrus

Due to their high water content, fruits cannot be used in perfumery. Only citrus fruits are used - the fruits are dried, and odorous oils are extracted from the peel, the notes of which are present in all colognes and refreshing waters.

Synthetics

Without synthetic components, the existence of modern perfumery is unthinkable. Without them, neither Chanel No. 5, nor Eau Sauvage, nor Opium would have been created! Until the 30s of the XIX century, perfumes were made only from the gifts of nature. Production was very expensive, and perfumes were considered a luxury item for the privileged sections of society. But in 1830, French chemists began experimenting with natural fragrances. Using synthesis, they created their counterparts based on individual components derived from essential oils. The success prompted scientists to try to obtain aromatic substances based on fossil raw materials, oil or coal. The experiments ended successfully, and now hundreds of new scents are being synthesized, which, mixed with classic natural scents, allow creating unique compositions.

smelling

To extract fragrant oils from products that do not decompose under the influence of high temperature, distillation is used. The distillation apparatus is similar to moonshine and works on the same principle. Flowers, herbs and roots are immersed in a pot of boiling water. The fragrant vapor passes through the coil into the refrigerator, where the fragrant essence condenses.


In order to obtain, for example, 1 liter of lavender oil in this way, it is necessary to process 200 kg of lavender, and to produce 1 liter of rose oil, 5 tons of roses are required.

Dissolution (extraction)
For plants that cannot tolerate treatment at high temperatures, a method has been developed to extract the fragrant extract from the source material using solvents - the so-called extraction. Previously, benzene was used as a solvent, now it is being replaced by less toxic hexane. The result is an absolute - the base of spirits. It is literally a gem. It takes 750 kg or 8 million flowers to produce 1 liter of absolute jasmine oil. In the 1930s, some perfumes contained up to 10% absolute jasmine oil, today at best 1-2%.

Pressing

Now a special press is used to squeeze out oils from the peel of citrus fruits, but back in the last century it was done manually. In Sicily and Calabria, for example, bergamot and lemon were treated with a special leather glove, on which small stone fragments were glued. The oil was collected on a sponge and squeezed into a bucket.

The art of the creator-perfumer

"Noses" is the name given to perfumers who create fragrances. They are not as famous as their works. Who, apart from specialists, remembers today Ernest Beau, the author of Chanel No. 5, or Edmond Rudnitska, the creator of Diorissimo? But their fragrances remain at the height of fashion for decades.

There are very few "noses" capable of creating a bestseller: there are hardly two dozen all over the world. These are creators who know how to mix aromatic essences so that outstanding perfumes are obtained. They distinguish and remember the smallest nuances of smells, of which there are more than 4000 in perfumery, and find their brilliant combinations; feel their connection with visual images and colors, have a taste and a sense of beauty.

As a rule, the "nose" works together with an assistant. He develops formulas, she weighs the concentrates and mixes them in the right proportion. Then he sniffs what happened. To create a composition, you have to smell several tens, or even hundreds of samples. When the ideal, according to the creator, proportion is found, a perfume composition is obtained - the basis for creating perfumes.


Then the composition, similar to vegetable oil, is dissolved in the highest purity alcohol without color and odor in a concentration of 2 to 40%.

Products with a high concentration have a more persistent flavor and, accordingly, are more expensive. The following classification is usually used:

  • cologne (2-3%);
  • toilet water (5-12%);
  • perfumed water (12-18%);
  • perfumes or extracts (from 18 to 40%).

The mixture is infused for several weeks - during this time, the aroma, mixing with alcohol, gains strength and matures.

Finally, the mixture is cooled to precipitate out, then brought to room temperature and filtered.

In one composition can be used from ten to hundreds of fragrant components - natural oils and artificially synthesized substances.

Fragrant families

Perfume can be divided into three main groups: floral, oriental and chypre.

Floral fragrances - light, cheerful and romantic - account for two-thirds of all existing perfumes. Rose and jasmine, tuberose and iris, violet and carnation can play with completely unexpected notes in different combinations. The freshest of them are green, with the aroma of freshly cut grass and young foliage.

Oriental fragrances are strong and heavy. They are made for seduction. It's more of an evening and winter perfume. They are warm, sweet and spicy, dominated by musk, oriental spices, resins and amber.

Chypre fragrances appeared in 1917, when François Coty created the perfume Chypre (“Chypre”) - this is the French name for the island of Cyprus. Moss grows there, the smell of which formed the basis of this fragrance. Fresh, sensual and dynamic, it became the progenitor of one of the three great perfume families.

In terms of chemical composition, perfume is a mixture of esters, aldehydes, alcohols and a range of other aromatics. And for every woman, perfume is one of the manifestations of her individuality, character and taste.

The history of the creation of aromatic compositions begins in ancient times. The smells of jasmine, lavender, rose and bergamot have been used since ancient times to stimulate mental activity, and mint and lily of the valley - to focus attention. Hippocrates and Avicenna, ancient Greek physicians, widely used aromatherapy for medical purposes. And in the Middle Ages, plague was treated with herbs. Currently, the benefits of essential oils for the body have been proven by in-depth scientific research.

Along with aromatherapy, another industry has developed since ancient times - perfumery. Its first products were ancient Egyptian incense, ointments, oils, consisting of 3-4 ingredients. Modern perfumers use more than 6 thousand fragrances to create unique compositions. Among them, an honorable place is occupied by essential oils obtained from vegetable raw materials.

The most valuable and widely used in perfumery is jasmine. This plant is native to Persia and Kashmir. Jasmine extract is usually included in perfumes only of the highest class. No less expensive flower oil is rose, especially if it is produced in France or Bulgaria. The unique aroma of freshness gives the perfume the smell of lavender, but oriental notes are often due to the presence of patchouli. Almost no sweetish rich composition is complete without orange blossom, obtained from the flowers of the orange tree. A green, woody note is most often attached to perfumes Cedar oil, which is also widely used for fragrance fixation. The same applies to sandalwood with its exotic scent included in many compositions. Many people know clove as a spice, but its oil is an important ingredient for making oriental perfumes. Cumin, mint, anise and others are also often used.

Oils of animal origin play an equally important role in creating the aroma. Their main function, in addition, is to establish harmony between the smell of perfume and the smell of human skin. Examples are musk, prepared from the glands of the musk ox - musk deer, ambergris - a special waxy substance, previously obtained only by cutting sperm whales, and cibet - secretions from the glands of a civet cat that lives in North Africa.

It is known that any oil dissolves with great difficulty in water, but perfectly - in alcohol. Due to this property, alcohols, aldehydes and esters are used in large quantities in perfumery. As many perfumers say, the further development of the fragrance industry is impossible without close cooperation with the chemical industry. Without the introduction of her products, many wonderful perfumes, such as Soir de Paris and Chanel No. 5, would not even see the light of day. modern science has reached such a level of development that it can recreate a variety of smells of nature. The cost of perfumery products is reduced, and the need for a complex process of obtaining oils from natural raw materials is eliminated.

Do you know that...

    More than 6,000 raw materials are used in modern perfumery. These components are not easy to obtain. For example, to extract one kilogram of rose oil, you need to collect tons of petals, and to squeeze the oil of iris, you need to tan its roots for two years.

    Aldehydes are compounds that smell like rancid fat. By itself, this smell is terrible, but in combination with other components, amazing compositions are obtained. The classic example here was, is and will be the perfume "Chanel No. 5".

    Joy by Patou was born in 1930, after the collapse of the New York Stock Exchange and the start of the Great Depression. Joy was a consolation gift from Jean Patou, who decided to create a fragrance of the highest quality, regardless of the cost of raw materials. Perfumer Henri Alméras created a perfume that requires 28 dozen Bulgarian roses and 10,400 jasmine flowers per ounce, making it the most expensive perfume in the world.

    Extracts of substances of animal origin - ambergris, castoreum and musk - are used as perfume fixatives. By themselves, musk, amber and castoreum have an extremely sharp, unpleasant, but very persistent smell. Natural fixatives are exotic and expensive - to get them, you have to catch sperm whales, beavers and roe deer. For example, 1 kg of musk deer costs 60,000 dollars. Accordingly, such components are introduced only into expensive perfumes.

    One perfume can contain up to 300 substances. The price of a perfume composition is traditionally associated with the number of ingredients: the more there are, the more expensive the perfume. For example, Chanel No. 5 consists of 80 aromatic components.

    Leading in curly mint and coriander is the smell of lily of the valley, and in geranium - roses.

    Fragrant branches of mistletoe in ancient times were credited with extraordinary witchcraft power. It was believed that with the help of mistletoe you can find the most secret treasure. Double leaves and fruits of this plant were used to increase male potency.

    There are flowers that do not have any smell at all, for example, poppies. The white locust does not have its own smell, its main aroma is the aroma of orange tree flowers with the addition of an accord of almond, rose, lilac, lily of the valley and jasmine aromas.

    The famous aroma of hay depends on one simple blade of grass, this blade of grass is a fragrant spikelet, oregano, containing an odorous substance - coumarin.

    Iris is one of the most expensive perfume ingredients. Its market value reaches 40,000 euros per 1 kg.

    Pairs of rue seeds in the East and Central Asia were considered a sure remedy for the evil eye. The grains were placed on a hot frying pan and fumigated with odorous smoke of a person whom they wanted to protect from evil.

    According to Herotodes, houses and buildings were fumigated with fragrant juniper to protect them from lightning strikes.

    The cleanest, and, therefore, the most expensive is considered rose oil, produced in Bulgaria: its cost is over 5,000 dollars per kilogram. And in order to get 1 kg of essential oil, about 5000 kg of petals are required. The fragrant crop is harvested by hand for only 30 days a year. The best time for this is the pre-dawn hours: with the first rays of the sun, the flowers lose their valuable oil. Incidentally, the chemists who imitate other odors with such success have never learned to adequately reproduce the intoxicating aroma of the rose.

    With a blossoming branch of a peach, shamans expelled the spirits of disease and evil from a person.

    To obtain 500 ml of jasmine essential oil, it is necessary to process 2 tons of petals of this flower using a certain technology.

Since ancient times, they have been used to stimulate mental activity, and mint and lily of the valley - to concentrate.

In this section, the leading perfume retailers present four "top" fragrances that can emphasize your individuality and become a successful addition to your modern image:

If any of the perfumes seems worthy of your attention, you can get more detailed information about it and its promotional price by clicking on the appropriate link...

Hippocrates and Avicenna, ancient Greek physicians, widely used aromatherapy for medical purposes. And in the Middle Ages, plague was treated with herbs. Currently, the benefits of essential oils for the body have been proven by in-depth scientific research.

Along with aromatherapy, another branch has developed since ancient times - perfumery. Its first products were ancient Egyptian incense, ointments and oils, consisting of 3-4 components. Modern perfumers use more than 6,000 ingredients to create their unique compositions. Among them, an honorable place is occupied by essential oils obtained from plant materials.

The most valuable and widely used in perfumery is jasmine. This plant is native to Persia and Kashmir. Jasmine extract is usually included in perfumes only of the highest class. No less expensive flower oil is rose, especially if it is produced in France or Bulgaria. The unique aroma of freshness gives perfumes the smell of lavender, but the oriental notes of oriental fragrances are often due to the presence of patchouli in their composition. Almost no sweetish rich composition is complete without orange blossom, obtained from the flowers of the orange tree. The green, woody note most often comes from cedarwood oil, which is also widely used to fix the fragrance. The same applies to sandalwood with its exotic scent included in many compositions. Many people know clove as a spice, but its oil is an important ingredient for making oriental perfumes. Cumin, mint, anise and others are also often used.

Oils of animal origin play an equally important role in creating the aroma. Their main function, in addition, is to establish harmony between the smell of perfume and the smell of human skin. Examples are musk prepared from the glands of the musk deer - musk deer, ambergris - a special waxy substance previously obtained only by cutting sperm whales, and civet - secretions from the glands of a civet cat that lives in North Africa.



It is known that any oil dissolves with great difficulty in water, but perfectly - in alcohol. Due to this property, alcohols, aldehydes and esters are used in large quantities in perfumery. As many perfumers say, the further development of the fragrance industry is impossible without close cooperation with the chemical industry. Without the introduction of her products, many wonderful perfumes, such as Bourjois Soir de Paris and Chanel 5, would not even see the light of day. Modern science has reached such a level of development that it can recreate the most diverse smells of nature. The cost of perfumery products is reduced, and the need for a complex process of obtaining oils from natural raw materials is eliminated.

● Modern perfumery uses more than 6,000 raw materials. These components are not easy to obtain. For example, to extract one kilogram of rose oil, you need to collect tons of petals, and to squeeze the oil of iris, you need to tan its roots for two years.

● Aldehydes - compounds that smell like rancid fat. By itself, this smell is terrible, but in combination with other components, amazing compositions are obtained. The classic example here was, is and will be the perfume "Chanel 5".

● Patou Joy was born in 1930, after the collapse of the New York Stock Exchange and the start of the Great Depression. "Joy" was a consolation gift from Jean Patou, who decided to create a fragrance of the highest quality, regardless of the cost of raw materials. Perfumer Henri Alméras created a perfume that requires 28 dozen Bulgarian roses and 10,400 jasmine flowers per ounce, making it the most expensive perfume in the world.

● Extracts of substances of animal origin - ambergris, castoreum and musk - are used as perfume fixatives. By themselves, musk, amber and castoreum have an extremely sharp, unpleasant, but very persistent smell. Natural fixatives are exotic and expensive - to get them, you have to catch sperm whales, beavers and roe deer. For example, 1 kilogram of musk deer costs $60,000. Accordingly, such components are introduced only into very expensive perfumes.

● One perfume can contain up to 300 substances. The price of a perfume composition is traditionally associated with the number of ingredients: the more there are, the more expensive the perfume. For example, "Chanel 5" consists of 80 aromatic components.

● Leading in curly mint and coriander is the smell of lily of the valley, and in geranium - roses.



● In order to keep the smell, fixatives are used: cedar oil, cloves, mint and oakmoss, the main exporter of which is Russia. Canadian beaver sperm is recognized as the best fixative.

● Fragrant branches of mistletoe in ancient times were credited with extraordinary witchcraft power. It was believed that with the help of mistletoe you can find the most secret treasure. Double leaves and fruits of this plant were used to increase male potency.

● There are flowers that do not have any smell at all, such as poppies. The white locust does not have its own smell, its main aroma is the aroma of orange tree flowers with the addition of an accord of almond, rose, lilac, lily of the valley and jasmine aromas.

● The famous aroma of hay depends on one simple blade of grass, this blade of grass is a fragrant spikelet, oregano, containing an odorous substance - coumarin.

● Iris is one of the most expensive perfume components. Its market value reaches 40,000 euros per 1 kilogram.

● Pairs of rue seeds in the East and Central Asia were considered a sure remedy for the evil eye. The grains were placed on a hot frying pan and fumigated with odorous smoke of a person whom they wanted to protect from evil.

● According to Herotodes, the house and buildings were fumigated with fragrant juniper to protect them from lightning strikes.

● The purest, and therefore the most expensive, is the rose oil produced in Bulgaria: its cost is over 5,000 dollars per kilogram. And in order to get 1 kilogram of essential oil, about 5000 kilograms of petals are required. The fragrant crop is harvested by hand for only 30 days a year. The best time for this is the pre-dawn hours: with the first rays of the sun, the flowers lose their valuable oil. Incidentally, the chemists who imitate other odors with such success have never learned to adequately reproduce the intoxicating aroma of the rose.

● With a peach blossom branch, shamans expelled the spirits of disease and evil from a person.

● To obtain 500 milliliters of jasmine essential oil, it is necessary to process 2 tons of petals of this flower using a certain technology.