greetings to all

present:

wonderful guests

and exemplary students

in our lesson!

REPETITION

1.What is a frill?

What fabric is the frill cut from?

Basic;

Finishing;

Lining;

Lace;

What thread is used to cut the frill?

Along the shared thread;

Along an oblique thread;

Along the transverse thread.

What cuts are distinguished in a frill?

Grinding cut

Otletnoy

slice

What is the length of the frill?

Free;

Grinding cut length;

Grinding cut length x 2.

What seams are used when connecting

frills with the main part?

- adjustment with open cut;

- adjustment with closed cut.

The flyaway cut of the frill can be processed: :

Closed hem seam

Zigzag stitch;

Edge stitch;

Double machine

line.

What products are frills used to decorate?

Dresses

Bed linen

Skirts are an integral part of women's clothing; they will never disappear from a woman's wardrobe. Skirt styles may change depending on fashion and over time, but always, skirts will always be popular! The skirt is worn together with a blouse, vest, jacket; it can serve as part of a dress or coat. The shape of the skirt has changed many times over the centuries.

Folk costume of the 16th century. Russian married women wore a poneva over their shirt - a skirt that was not sewn, but wrapped around the figure and secured around the waist with a cord. .

Poneva was often sewn from colorful fabrics and decorated with embroidery or braid.

Over the following centuries, skirts underwent various changes. So in the 16th century it was a massive, motionless structure of several metal circles covered with fabric.

• A panier skirt (French for “basket”) is a skirt that was pulled over wooden hoops or whalebone, flattened at the front and back. Pannier came into fashion in France. The designs of these skirts reached such sizes that ladies could only walk through the door sideways. When getting into a carriage or going into an elevator, the skirts were folded like we fold an umbrella.

In the 17th century, a frame was used for the skirt.

In the 18th century, the petticoat became unusually feminine and flirtatious. The upper petticoat, which is visible from under the dress, is made of silk and decorated with lace.

At the beginning of the 19th century, the skirt changed its shape. Clothes became simpler and higher-waisted.

In the mid-19th century, skirts with crinolines appeared; they were decorated with flounces, braid, lace, velvet trims, and patterned ribbons.

• In the second half of the 19th century, the crinoline was replaced by a petticoat with frills and a pillow - bustle. This artificial emphasizing of that part of the female body, which is not customary to talk about in polite society, was called “artificial” or “Parisian butt”. The skirt was held on a frame made of curved hoops and was richly decorated at the back with flounces, ribbons, fringes, ruffles .

In the Russian village, skirts appeared no earlier than the 19th century.

Skirts were made from straight cloth, gathered thickly on a narrow belt.

Country fashion has always corresponded to the way of peasant life.

Bodily fullness meant health for a peasant girl, and health means working up a sweat. Therefore, girls of marriageable age put on several skirts to appear fatter - for them, being plump was the same as beauty.

For plump girls, 2-3 skirts were enough; for those who were thin, they pulled on 4-5 skirts at once.

• By design, there are three main cuts of skirts: straight, wedge and conical.
• According to the silhouette of the skirt there are: straight, narrowed downwards and widened.

Straight skirts

• As a rule, they consist of two parts: a front and a rear panel. A straight-cut skirt fits tightly to the figure; it can have slits, various folds, gathers, yokes, pockets, etc.
• When modeling, it can be made both very narrow and quite wide.

Wedge skirts

• They consist of several identical wedges that widen downwards. The number of wedges can be either even or odd.
• This skirt fits tightly to the figure from the waist to the hips, and uniform tails are formed below the hip line.
• The fastener is located in the side seam if the number of wedges is even, and is located at the back if the number of wedges is odd.

Conical Skirts

A tapered skirt typically has no darts and can usually be one-seam or two-seam in design, depending on the width of the fabric used and the design.

Depending on the degree of expansion, they are divided into flares, bells, “sun” and “half-sun”.

If the skirt will be worn in the summer season, then the following fabrics will be suitable for it:

• Chiffon

• Satin

• Atlas

For the cold season, skirts are made from “warm” fabrics:

• Wool

• Cashmere

• Boucle

• Velours

There are certain requirements for ready-made clothing, including skirts:

• hygienic
• operational
• aesthetic

Hygienic requirements

• Clothing should provide a person with freedom of movement, not wrinkle, and be easy to put on and take off. The hygiene of clothing is expressed in its ability to absorb moisture - hygroscopicity; let air through - breathability; retain body heat - thermal protection.

Operational Requirements

• During wear, clothing experiences various deformations and loads: some areas of the clothing stretch, others shrink, rub, etc. One of the important operational requirements is duration of wear clothing (wear resistance). The service life depends on the wearing conditions of the product, the properties of the fabric, its quality and type of processing.

Aesthetic requirements

• All clothes should be beautiful and in keeping with fashion. You should strive to ensure that the color, style and overall style of clothing create a harmonious appearance.
• When creating clothes in general, and skirts in particular, you need to take into account the characteristics of a person’s physique and appearance, and his age.

Using reference words, select the appropriate meanings for the classification of skirts

Purpose of skirts

Silhouette (shape) of skirts

Cut the skirts

Words for reference : straight, sporty, tapered, tapered, casual, shaped, wedge, tapered, extended.

• How are clothes divided according to how they are worn?

• What are the basic requirements for clothing?

• How are skirts divided by cut?

• How can you divide skirts by silhouette?

What details does a straight skirt have?

Front panel;

Rear panel;

“Determine the cut and silhouettes of skirts”

Conical, expanded

Klinevaya,

extended

Klinevaya,

extended

extended

Klinevaya,

extended.

Today you learned to distinguish the designs of skirts by cut and silhouette, continued to get acquainted with the requirements for clothing, completed individual and collective tasks, we touched on historical facts and just played.

And I hope that today’s entire lesson was held under the motto:

“Fashion is an amazing game, the goal of which is to dress tastefully and beautifully!”

Spanish verdugado skirt XVI century

Aristocratic ladies developed a passion for dome-shaped skirts, which were arranged in several tiers or supported by horsehair. They were very heavy, and there was nothing left to do but stretch the fabric over a frame of hoops. Since the hoop is “verdugos” in Spanish, the skirt was also called “verdugado”. It turned into some kind of complex architectural structure. It was placed on the floor to fit into the skirt and fasten to the corset. Verdugados covered with brocade were very expensive. But no one except the queen was allowed to wear such a skirt.

Skirt with frame, XVIII century

WITH XVIII centuries, ladies' hearts turned to pannier (French for “basket”) on a frame. Its version - the “screamer” skirt - swayed when walking, the hem rose, which awakened the imagination of the gentlemen. The metal and wooden parts of the frame, connected by oilcloth, creaked and sang... The church considered the “screamer” a challenge to public morality and anathematized it. The sides of the skirts were widened and raised using whalebone and wire.

Skirt with bustle, France 1880s.

The court milliner Rose Bertin created a fancy model of a skirt with a cotton pad from the back, below the waist. Fashion again showed its tough character: it was difficult to move and live in a skirt. In the 1880s, the bustle-roller came into fashion again, S -shaped silhouette of the female figure of recent decades XIX century, bringing back the fashion of a hundred years ago.

Coco Chanel style skirt 1920s

In the 20s, the great Coco Chanel dressed young women and girls in straight, elegant skirts that did not interfere with movement. The boyish type “a la garçon” won.

Pants, Germany, 1930s

Skirts and trousers became a tribute to new tastes. Comfortable and practical in every way.

Times of perestroika, Russia, 1980s

First place for the best solution to the theme dedicated to the 70th anniversary of the October Revolution at the Tallinn Fashion Days competition was awarded to a series of models under the motto “Perestroika”.

XX VEC

Frills, ruffles, folds, maxi, mini, midi……..

XXI century, cocktail of different styles

A thin jacket with padding polyester, “country” stockings in a diamond pattern, combined with a skirt made of crinkled fabric.

Chiffon skirt combined with a quilted jacket. Ideal for those who love layered outfits .

But a classic for everything time !

• In the Russian village, skirts appeared no earlier than the mid-19th century. Before this, clothing was a long canvas shirt and sundress. Skirts were made from straight cloth, gathered thickly on a narrow belt. Wealth was measured by the number of skirts. Don Cossack women had 15–20 skirts.
• The oldest skirts in Rus' were the Poneva. In essence, it was also a skirt, only its flaps, as a rule, were not sewn together. The ponya was held on by a rope or cord. It was made from homespun wool. And ponevs were divided into bruises and red ones. Poneva most resembles our straight skirts.

• St– half waist circumference; Sat– semi-circumference of the hips; DTS– back length to waist; Di- length of the product.

Instruction card: Taking measurements to draw a skirt drawing

St – half waist circumference (measured horizontally at the waist line);

Sat – half hip circumference (measured horizontally through the protruding points of the abdomen and buttocks);

Lts – back length to waist (measured from the seventh cervical vertebra to the waist line);

Di – product length (measure from waistline to desired length).

Clothes were not immediately divided into men's and women's. In ancient civilizations, an apron, something like a skirt, had almost no differences by gender and age. And only in the Middle Ages, men's clothing began to differ significantly from women's. But the evolution of everyday life, moral, ethical and religious ideas gradually changed attitudes towards clothing. For young people it remained short, for older, more revered and noble people it became longer and richly decorated. SKIRT is one of the most ancient types of clothing. In Ancient Egypt, clothing was a loincloth - the prototype of a modern skirt. In ancient Greece and Rome, clothing consisted of a chiton, tunic and cloak. And only in the Middle Ages did men begin to wear pants. Clothes were not immediately divided into men's and women's. In ancient civilizations, an apron, something like a skirt, had almost no differences by gender and age. And only in the Middle Ages, men's clothing began to differ significantly from women's. But the evolution of everyday life, moral, ethical and religious ideas gradually changed attitudes towards clothing. For young people it remained short, for older, more revered and noble people it became longer and richly decorated. SKIRT is one of the most ancient types of clothing. In Ancient Egypt, clothing was a loincloth - the prototype of a modern skirt. In ancient Greece and Rome, clothing consisted of a chiton, tunic and cloak. And only in the Middle Ages did men begin to wear pants

Verdugado is the Spanish name for the Basquine crinoline - a Spanish flared skirt with a frame made of hoops, open at the front. In the 16th century, when the leadership in fashion passed to Spain, the ambitions of noble ladies were expressed in the unusual width of skirts, which were arranged in several tiers. Skirts became so heavy that women could not wear them. And then they came up with a frame made of hoops for skirts. In Spanish, hoop is verdugo, and therefore skirts with a frame began to be called verdugado

Verdugado - a skirt of those times. This is a whole structure. Having installed it on the floor, they simply “entered” it, and then fastened it to a corset. The French, who dressed their ladies in such skirts, called them spinners. Once in France, the vertugardans became somewhat lighter and acquired rounded shapes. The effect of immense hips was created by a special hip pad in the form of a cotton pretzel. Spanish fashion French fashion

In the 17th century, the time came for comfortable clothing. Noble ladies liked what laundresses did when working with their skirts. While working, they unceremoniously tucked the hem of their skirt into their belt. The “washerwoman’s skirt” came into fashion. Now it was not a sin to show legs, and at the same time beautiful petticoats.

Rococo era. (y.g). The appearance of this style of clothing dates back to the first years of the 18th century. And its heyday ends with the reign of Louis XV. This style is characterized by lush, elegant outfits. Lace, decorations, light, airy fabrics and magnificent hairstyles - Rococo-shell