National clothes and national cuisine, which have developed over the centuries, can tell much more about the material and spiritual culture of any country than all history textbooks combined.

Chinese civilization is one of the five oldest civilizations on the planet, originated in 2-3 thousand BC, and for a long time this country lived in isolation from its neighbors and did not experience other people's influence. This left its original imprint on the development of the culture of the Celestial Empire and was reflected in the national costume. Some countries of the world have completely abandoned their national costumes, and they can only be seen in ethnographic museums. But in China, even today, national motifs that have come from time immemorial prevail in the clothes of the population.

The clothes of Chinese citizens are not influenced by fashion and modernity. She lives her original and unique life outside of time and space.

Of course, social status and material well-being have had an impact on clothing since antiquity. So, for example, powerful, rich and noble people in ancient China wore multi-layered, bright clothes made of silks of various textures.

The middle strata of the population wore no more than two layers of clothing, while the poor wore cotton trousers and shirts, both men and women.

Likewise for color scheme: the upper strata of the population wore clothes of bright, eye-catching colors, while the lower ones chose dark, nondescript colors.

Chinese men's national clothes

Men's national clothing for men in China was an undershirt without fasteners and wide trousers. They were sewn from hemp, cotton or silk fabric, it depended on the wealth of the owner. It was considered indecent to show bottom pants, so outerwear was very long, and the so-called trousers were put on the legs - legs, which were attached to the sash with ribbons. In Northern China, due to the severe cold, they wore quilted trousers and cotton-lined legs.

Double-breasted robes or wadded sweaters without any fasteners with a smell on the right side were put on top. The Chinese considered the left side unlucky and those who wrap their clothes to the left were called barbarians. The width of the sleeves attracted attention: the higher the social status of a person, the wider the sleeves of his clothes (sometimes they reached 3 meters). During work, such sleeves were tied with special ribbons and crossed under the chest.

In winter, the Chinese wore wadded robes (even a few) or wadded dresses. Wealthy people could afford coats made of dog, monkey or goat fur. The very rich afforded fur coats made of sable or silver fox, but the most valuable were fur coats made of golden astrakhan fur. Over fur coats, special painted silk robes of bright scarlet color were worn.

According to Chinese customs, it is indecent to show one's lower limbs, so a wide piece of fabric, the so-called "shan", was tied around the belt. It was attached to the belt with a wide sash, which also served as a waist bag. Items important for every person were kept in it: flint and steel, a knife, an archery ring, etc.

Color also played an important role in the costume. red-black colors were considered truly masculine. The emperor and mandarins (his ministers) could wear yellow and orange robes, symbolizing power and wealth.

On clothes with the help of colored ink, hieroglyphs in an ornament of bats were applied, most often “longevity” and “happiness”.

Women's Chinese national costume

The women's national costume in China largely repeats the men's. The underwear also consists of pants and a shirt, dressing gowns or sweaters are put on top. In the Tang era, wide skirts appeared, which were held on the hips with brightly colored sashes. But women's clothing distinguished by exquisite embroideries and patterns. These patterns were highly symbolic. Various flowers and plants personified different seasons, the image of a butterfly symbolized the family hearth and marital love, a pair of mandarin ducks - eternal marital fidelity. Sometimes especially skilled craftswomen could embroider entire plot pictures on their clothes.

National headdresses of China

A Chinese costume would not be considered complete without a headdress or elaborate hairstyle for both men and women. Since ancient times, it was considered indecent in China not to take care of one's appearance and, in particular, hair. Both women and men carefully lubricated their hair with perfume oils and essences, sprinkled it with colored powder, smeared it with wax and varnish.

Women wove bird feathers, flowers and leaves, threads of beads and pearls into their hair, men used dark braided cords to strengthen their hair.

According to the rules of etiquette, a man's head must be covered with a headdress. Young men wore small metal caps until they came of age, young people from wealthy families could afford caps made of precious metals, decorated with gems. At the age of twenty (in China, the age of majority) they performed a ceremony - putting on a hat, when the cap was replaced by an adult headdress.

The emperor himself and other noble people wore a complex headdress, consisting of several layers, which was called "Mian".

The poor, on the other hand, wore wide-brimmed cone-shaped straw hats.

Noble Chinese women did not wear headdresses, they were replaced by complex hairstyles with wooden patterned hairpins crosswise. Elderly noble ladies could afford wigs.

Even today in the 21st century China is an original country with a unique culture and religion; the Chinese sacredly observe the traditions and customs of their ancestors. The national dress of China breaks all stereotypes, it is not subject to the fashion trends of Europe and America, it lives according to its own laws, only subject to it. And today on the streets of the largest cities of this country you can meet people in national clothes, decorated with a complex bright ornament with fans in her hands and in wooden sandals. This does not surprise anyone and does not cause excessive curiosity.

China has lived in isolation from other countries for so long that even today its culture does not lend itself to any new trends. The people of China are true patriots, sacredly guarding the heritage of their ancestors, they cherish their spiritual culture and their historical traditions.

Chinese fashion

Hanfu ( 漢服 ) - Chinese traditional costumes. However, in China itself, it is worn only during solemn ceremonies or used in historical films. But there are also cultural societies in China and abroad that devote their energies to the revival of Hanfu, this phenomenon is called "Hanfu Fuxing" (漢服復興 ).

Classic hanfu is a knee-length overshirt "AND" ( 衣 ) with wide or narrow sleeves, and a skirt that widens to the bottom "Chan" ( 裳 ) . Under "I" put on underwearZhongyi (中衣 ) And Zhongchang ( 中 裳 ) from cotton or silk.

The male version is called "Shenyi" ( 深衣 ) or " Zhiju" ( 直裾 ) , and female "Quju" ( 曲裾 ). It was this costume that served as the prototype of the Japanese kimono.

The ancient Chinese did not cut their hair, but collected it in a tight knot - "zi" - and laid it on the crown of the head, securing it with a hairpin.

The waist was wrapped with a piece of "shan" cloth. The shan was fastened at the waist with a cloth belt ("nude") or leather ("gedai"), and a "show" was attached to the side or back - colored cords with jade decorations tied into a net. In ancient times, the belt was considered the most important attribute of the Chinese national costume. Strictly defined objects were hung from it: a knife, a steel, an archery ring, a needle for unraveling the memorable knots of the show. Later, these items were turned into jewelry, to which decorative jade pendants "peiyu" were added.

Qunchang ( 裙 裳 ) - a kind of hanfuof silk or damask, including Bisi ( 蔽膝 ) - a cape in the form of an apron.

General characteristics of the hanfu: cross collar (交領 ) and right lapel (右衽 , wrapping clothes to the right). It was believed that only barbarians plowed on the left side. The sleeves were wide (the average sleeve width was 240 centimeters). During work, the sleeves were tied with a special ribbon that crossed over the chest.

During the Zhou Dynasty, there was a strict hierarchical order, and clothing became an indicator of social status: people differed by the width of their sleeves., skirt length and embellishment.

The colors in the costume were also regulated by rank: the imperial family - yellow, soldiers - white, red; young warriors - blue, dignitaries - brown.

Women's outfits differed from men's mainly in the exceptional beauty of embroidered color patterns. Usually these patterns were enclosed in decorative circles - "tuan". All images in "tuan" were deeply symbolic.The largest place in China was given to the image of a peach - a symbol of longevity, the hieroglyph of an orchid - a symbol of learning, a peony flower - a symbol of wealth. Flowers also symbolized the seasons and could take place on seasonal clothes: wild plum - winter, peony - spring, lotus - summer, chrysanthemum - autumn.

Bright blue was considered a talisman against black magic and the evil eye.

The green color is associated with the tree and the east - the birthplace of a young day.

Men's jackets and robes were often decorated with the hieroglyphs "longevity". Often such a hieroglyph was bordered by a ring of five bats: the words " bat" and "happiness" sound the same in Chinese.

Ruqun ( 襦裙 ) - a short jacket with a long skirt (above the chest). Looks like a dress for a woman, like a sundress with long sleeves and a cape-scarf or a light robe.

There is a subspecies of Zhutsun, both with and without a jacket, with additional fitting, has many options:

Shangqun (衫裙 ) - long to the waist jacket with a skirt. The skirt can be both wide and narrow.

There are many options for the top shirt:

In northern China, fur coats "qiu" made of goat, dog or monkey fur protected from the cold. Fur coats for the nobility were made of sable or fox fur, and silk embroidered robes were put on top. Fur coats made of karakul were most valued.

Long shirt/shirt-robe, with narrow sleeves, is called "Pao" ( 袍 ). He painted very richly for the nobility. The light version may not have had a collar.

In winter, the Chinese wore several robes or lined clothes at once - "Jiapao" or "Mianpao" wadded robe.

Changshan (Chengsam) ( 長衫 ) - a wide dress based on the pao, completely hiding the figure and leaving only the head, palms and toes of the shoes visible. In 1636, an imperial decree was issued, according to which all Chinese women belonging to this estate were to wear it. In 1644, the Manchus relaxed this requirement, but the Changshan had already become popular. (You can see this dress in "Kill Bill" at the closest friend of Oren Ishii).

Chinese clothing style

East is a delicate matter.

Since ancient times, or more precisely, before19th century China was the cultural center of East Asia. Its influence on the development of mankind is colossal - it was in China that paper first appeared, and they learned how to print books. But this is not the end of the track record of Chinese craftsmen, they managed to invent gunpowder and create a compass.

But let's not go too deep into the history of this beautiful country with centuries of experience and moral values, let's rather talk about the traditions that have come down to our time from time immemorial, and which we can apply in the modern world.

The topical issue of people at all times has been their appearance. Clothing can be an indicator of social status and material well-being. And as the proverb says, “They meet by clothes ...”

Let's "meet" the image of a Chinese woman and try it on ourselves. Everything will be very simple, read carefully and imagine.

Let's start with the sensations: , light, smooth and flowing. Most often, it is made from high-quality natural fabrics, such as silk, satin, chiffon and the like. After all, both dresses that emphasize every curve of the figure, and loose blouses with skirts, sewn from these fabrics, attract admiring glances.

Represented? Then let's continue, consider which styles of clothing define the Chinese style. I have little doubt that each of you, when in question about China represents a girl in ... no, no, do not confuse, the kimono is from Japan, and we are talking about China! So here is a girl dressed in a silk dress with short sleeves, charming slits on the sides, high stand-up collar, buttoned slightly on the side of the neck. In addition to this image, representatives of the Chinese style can wear fitted straight jackets with a familiar collar, skinny ankle-length silk trousers with traditional side slits; long straight wrap skirts and more. The main stylistic difference of such clothes is the maximum integrity of the cut, as well as the absence of uncomfortable and non-functional pockets, buttons, ruffles, frills and other things. Chinese style combines true beauty, convenience and simplicity. It is also worth noting that the colors for clothes traditionally prefer bright, vibrant, and very naturally combined with each other. But do not think that there are no "decorations" on these clothes.

Let's go back to what everyone associates with China. bright flowers, dragons, bonsai, butterflies and the invariable interweaving of the 4 elements. It is these motifs that are present in traditional Chinese ornaments. The airy loops and stunning embroideries are perfectly combined with each other, creating an indescribable feeling of beauty and sophistication of the Chinese style.

Each state has its own characteristics, traditions and culture. The visiting card of any country is national clothes. The traditional Chinese costume can be safely called an extravaganza of celebration and celebration, but now you rarely see it on a modern resident of China.

Story

The time of birth of Chinese clothing can be safely called the period when the civilization of China appeared. Each dynasty contributed to the history of the Chinese state and changed the style of clothing in its own way, making its own adjustments. In today's rhythm of life, it is almost impossible to imagine a Chinese or a Chinese woman in a traditional costume, as he feels more comfortable in a modern way.

Chinese costume in all eras was distinguished by its luxury, brightness of colors, and rich decor. Until the 17th-18th century, the people of China did not have any specific direction in clothing.

During the reign of the Han Dynasty, the Chinese hanfu outfit began to exist. Already during the Shang Dynasty, this outfit was transformed into classic version. Under the Zhou Dynasty, clothing changed a lot and became an indicator of social status.

After the Xinhai Revolution, the tradition of dressing in traditional costumes was lost and the Chinese began to prefer European style. Over time, among the younger generation, the Chinese costume began to revive, but solely for the sake of the interest of the culture of their people.

Features of the national Chinese costume

The traditional costume of China has unique style features. It is distinguished by its simple cut. He must have a strong collar.

Male

The men's folk costume consisted of "ku" trousers and a shirt. Pants had to be tucked under clothing. The cut was wide and baggy. With the help of a sash, they were tied at the waist. The material for the trousers was hemp fabric. Leggings were worn over the top.

If the cold came, the male population would wear a warm option - quilted trousers, and put on cotton leggings on top.

Female

At folk costume had long sleeves and a cape. He differed only in the length and style of the skirt. An obligatory part of it was "ruqun" - a blouse with a skirt. Women wore fur coats made of goats and dogs. wore sable, fox and astrakhan fur coats.

Men's clothing

Chinese men wore multiple clothes due to the constant change of cold and heat. There were severe frosts in the northern part, so there should be a lot of clothes to keep warm.

shirts

Chinese ancient shirts are popular not only in China. It appeared during the Tang Dynasty and was called Tangzhuang. They are strict in cut and original. Most often, shirts were sewn from natural materials.

Summer option - short shirts that are not tucked into trousers.

Chinese national clothes are impossible without a variety of accessories and shoes. Each element has a special meaning.

Noble women of China made complex hairstyles, which were threaded with wooden hairpins crosswise. Older women were often seen wearing wigs. Jewelry made from minerals and organics was very popular. Jewelry was used in men's and women's outfits.

Women wore:

• rings;
• beads;
• amulets;
• bracelets;
• scallops;
• earrings.

Shoes were worn by both women and men. Usually these were black textile platform shoes, without a heel. Wealthy Chinese wore shoes made of a noble material - silk. The villagers wore ordinary woven sandals. For the wealthy, patent leather shoes with wooden soles were made.

Fabrics and patterns

China is the birthplace of an amazingly beautiful material - silk. How beautiful women's outfits sewn from this noble fabric look.

Important! If you wear silk clothes, you can be cured of many diseases.

Silk is one of the main fabrics from which clothes were sewn. In addition to it, less noble fabrics were used, such as hemp, linen, cotton, bamboo fibers.

Each country has its own symbolism, and China has its own, embodied in unique patterns that adorn clothes.

Important! The Chinese people believe that appliqué, a pattern embroidered on clothes, serves as protection from the evil thoughts of enemies.

Drawing bamboo on clothes meant stamina, a butterfly with open wings is a symbol of immortality, a turtle meant long life. Among all the drawings, the lotus flower was considered the most sacred.

Color palette

The color scheme of outfits to this day plays a huge role. Each color had its own symbolism.

Red fiery color - symbolizes the solar and fiery power. On holidays and solemn days, the Chinese dressed in outfits, the main color of which was this particular color.

All blue shades - promised misfortune and trouble. They dressed in clothes in white colors in mournful and sad moments. Yellow was considered the color of power, it symbolized peace and tranquility. Black dresses promised wisdom. Green - was the spring and vital color.

Wealthy Chinese wore bright colors, which the poor could not do.

Modern models

Today you can see that many fashion designers and designers use in their models some of the elements of the traditional costume in modern images. have been very popular for a long time Men's shirts, ideally emphasizing the figure of men. Girls pay attention to elegant dresses - qipao, which perfectly fit a slender figure.

Chinese traditional dresses amaze with their sophistication, beauty and magnificence. The modern generation, although it has moved away from the canons of walking in a traditional way, but in everyone's wardrobe there is an element of ancient clothing.

The national dress of China is hanfu, which means clothes of the Han Dynasty. For formal and very important events, they used a Hanfu outfit made of red and black fabrics, white was considered mourning and was used very rarely, gold and yellow worn by emperors, his family and entourage.

Since the mid-30s of the last century, when the Chinese monarchy ceased to exist, qipao has become a typical example of national Chinese clothing for women. In English-speaking countries, qipao is better known as cheongsam, which translates as a shirt. The first qipao robes were sewn quite simply. They consisted of a piece of fabric with two seams and a stand-up collar, had five buttons and a slit in the front.

National Chinese clothes and traditions

Chinese women's national clothes were made from various fabrics - it depended on wealth. Cotton and hemp fabrics were used by the middle-class population, silk fabrics were used by local aristocrats. Pants sewn without zippers or buttons and having an oblique seam on the stomach have become traditional clothes for pregnant women. It was believed that such attire helped not to penetrate evil spirits in the belly of a pregnant woman. In China, it is believed that a woman's small foot is very beautiful. In order for the leg not to grow, from early childhood, shoes were put on girls. This procedure caused severe pain, leg disease, and in some cases even disability.

National clothes of China are in fashion today. On the streets of the city, in offices, you can meet a woman in qipao. You can add short blouses, jackets and sweaters to national clothes. The main difference between traditional Chinese clothing is the softness and elegance of the cut, traditional embroidery, knot buttons and braid.