This article can be titled like this: "Clothes of the Russian village." For many centuries, the vast majority of the population of Russia were peasants. They led a subsistence economy, providing themselves with everything necessary, including clothing. By his very fate, inseparable from the life of the earth, the plowman was part of his native nature, and his costume to the greatest extent corresponded to the peculiarities of the Russian climate.

Festive girl's costume from the Vologda province.
The famous Russian artist I. Bilibin depicted a girl from a northern village. Her attire - a sarafan klinnik and a warming feather are sewn from a purchased damask with a rich pattern. Such fabric was brought from the countries of the East. But the headdress is a crown - Russian gold-embroidered work.

Festive women's costume from the Vologda province.
Again I. Bilibin, and again a Vologda peasant woman. Only this time, a young woman - that was the name of a woman at an early time of marriage, more often before the appearance of her first child. Her richly decorated costume symbolized this flourishing age, as if calling on the future mother the grace of heaven and earth. The sundress and the shower jacket are made of patterned damask, the latter being trimmed with stripes of gold embroidery. The high gold-embroidered kokoshnik is adorned with stones. Tied over it is a silk shawl that has turned into a cape.

Another thing is also important. The peasant only absented himself from his village in extreme need; alien guests were also rare. Therefore, in his clothes, which escaped external influences, the world outlook, customs, character, taste were clearly expressed - inner essence native Russian people. That is why for many centuries, first of all, the peasantry was the custodian of national traditions in costume. Especially after the famous decree of Peter, who obliged everyone, except for the peasants and the clergy, to wear a European-style dress. The townspeople were forced to switch to "German" clothes, and only the villagers continued to wear folk costume.

"Pendants" - an element of the head
girl's dress. Tomsk province.
Late 19th - early 20th century.

What was he like? Finding yourself a hundred years ago at a major fair somewhere in Makaryevo or Irbit, you would be amazed at the variety of outfits, especially for women: you can’t find two identical ones! Indeed, over the centuries, almost every village in vast Russia has developed its own traditions - so that by the color or pattern of clothes it was possible to find out where the hostess came from. The costumes of the northern and southern provinces differed most of all, Siberian women dressed in a peculiar way. Let's talk about these ensembles.

The traditional women's outfit of the Russian North is often called the "word of mouth complex", since its main parts are a shirt and a sundress. Our ancestors have worn the shirt since time immemorial - this is confirmed by many beliefs associated with it. For example, they did not sell their own shirt: it was believed that at the same time you would sell your happiness. Isn't that why the people were so valued by people who are ready to give the last shirt to the needy? It was the main, and sometimes the only clothing: as usual, village boys and girls in the 19th century, in some places, until the very wedding, went in the same shirts, intercepted by a belt.

Festive women's shirt. Olonets province. Beginning of the 19th century.
Decorating the shirt with generous embroidery, the craftswoman used paper, silk and gold threads.
The pattern on the hem is especially interesting: the Tree of Life with birds on the sides.

In the old days, a shirt was sewn from linen or hemp canvas, skipping a single piece of cloth from the collar to the hem. Hence the name - sinker, which existed in the Vologda province. But already in the last century, such clothes are found only as wedding and funeral, at the same time they wear a two-piece shirt. The upper one was called sleeves in the North and was sewn from thinner, even purchased matter, the lower one - camp - from ordinary homespun fabric.

In the Russian village, not all clothes were decorated, but only festive and ritual ones. The richest, annual, was worn three or four times a year, on the most solemn days. She was very cherished, tried not to wash and passed on by inheritance.
Preparing an elegant shirt, village needlewomen showed everything they were capable of. Sleeves, shoulders and collar, not covered with a sundress, were embroidered with red threads. Often decorated with a hem. In special shirts, which were worn with a belt for mowing or harvesting, it was almost completely covered with an embroidered or woven pattern. They went with songs - after all, for the peasants, harvesting is not only hard work, but also a great holiday. In the Olonets province, there was an elegant weeping shirt, or makhavka, with very long and narrow sleeves. The bride put it on on her wedding day and, saying goodbye to her parents, waved the ends of the sleeves around her head and across the floor, lamenting her lost girlhood and her future life in a strange family...

Skirt "skid". Olonets province. Beginning of XX century.
This skirt is amazingly beautiful, almost completely covered with a woven pattern. Looking closer at it, you can see how deer with branched horns walk measuredly around the solar rhombuses. The plot was not chosen by chance. Such a skirt was separated from the shirt of the mower, the hem of which was generously decorated with weaving. On the first pasture of cattle, young women put on two or even three skirts, showing the sun and girlfriends their wealth.

Interestingly, the word "sarafan" is first found in Rus' in the documents of the XIV century in relation to men's clothing. The most ancient type of women's sundress is shushpan with a solid front panel. But already in the last century, elderly peasant women wore it, and young people mastered a swing sundress fastened with openwork metal buttons. Due to the large number of wedges that greatly expand it in the hem, it was called the wedge. However, there were also other names - according to the fabric: kumashnik, naboeshnik, damask - after all, the wedge-makers sewed not only from homespun fabric dyed blue or red, but also from purchased materials. The kumach was extremely popular, which was used for festive clothes. For the most elegant, they took silk fabrics - satin and damask, and in the most prosperous families - brocade. In the second half of the 19th century, the oblique-wedge sarafan was replaced by a straight sundress of five or six panels with narrow straps: lyamoshnik, round, inflate, Muscovite, fur coat.

I remember that not so long ago, wide dresses without a belt were fashionable, supposedly designed “in the Russian style”. But is it? Indeed, in Rus' they never walked with a belt, and the first “clothing” that a newborn received was precisely the belt: it was believed that it protects from troubles. A variety of belts are known: woven, knitted, wicker. Wide - for outerwear and narrower - for the maid, festive and everyday. Patterned belts with lush terry at the ends were woven from garus wool. Many were "with words" - a skillfully woven line of prayer or dedication. And it’s just: “Whom I love, I give”, and the names ...

The outfit seems simple at first. But why is he so eye-catching? Homemade shirt made of bleached canvas embroidered with red threads. It goes well with a sarafan naboeshnik with bright spots of mountain ash and cloves of red braid on the hem. And yellow echoes in color with a headband embroidered with pearls and stones. The ensemble, which creates an image of girlish purity, is completed by a woven belt, an ancient symbol of chastity. Yes, behind the outward simplicity there is a delicate taste and needlework skill, a lot of work and great patience!

Finally, a headdress, without which the costume of a Russian peasant woman is simply unthinkable. Indeed, according to ancient custom, a married woman did not appear in public with a simple hair - this was considered a great sin. Girls could not cover their hair. Hence the difference in dress: a married woman has a deaf cap, a girl has a dressing that leaves the top of her head uncovered.

Gorgeous are the festive kokoshniks of northern women, embroidered with gold thread and river pearls(until the 18th century, Rus' was very rich in them). In their shape they looked like a fluffy chicken, but in some places they had other outlines. For example, Nizhny Novgorod - with a high crest in the form of a crescent or pointed Kostroma. The elegant maiden's coruna really resembled an old royal crown with bizarre teeth, which was echoed by a brocade braid, also trimmed with pearls and embroidery. On weekdays, girls wore a ribbon or scarf.

No wonder the traditional Russian costume is called “multi-layered”: a shirt, a poneva, a cap, a curtain, a kichka, a scarf ... And an abundance of jewelry that is completely unusual for us! Take a straight, like a bag, long pommel. The canvas from which it is cut is not visible - almost all of it is covered with stripes of braid and lace. But what is surprising: an inconceivable excess of clothes and a variegation of colors are incomprehensibly brought into harmony.

What else complemented the main costume? With a rich sundress, they put on a brocade shower warmer for warmth, gathered on the back with beautiful folds. With sleeves - it was called an epanechka, on the straps - a short one. An embroidered apron could also have sleeves, but more often it was worn around the neck or tied over the chest. Well, on a holiday - a beautiful scarf or shawl, say, a Kargopol gold scarf with patterns. Such is the outfit of the peasant women of the Russian North.

The costume of the southern provinces was noticeably different from it. And in terms of composition, this is the so-called “pony complex”. And according to the materials - the local peasants lived poorer and did not buy expensive fabrics. And in style - the South Russian costume is brighter and more colorful, which is the reason for the different climate and the proximity of the steppe peoples.

This is also a resident of southern Rus' - you see how bright the outfit is! Yes, and the composition of the costume is different: its basis is a checkered poneva with blue stitching. On the hem there is a braid and a row of a woven pattern; a woolen belt with the ends from multi-colored beads. From it is a breast decoration. And the figure is crowned with a horned kichka with a gold-embroidered browband and woolen rosettes at the temples.

It is based on an ancient belt poneva. Imagine three sewn panels with a cord threaded through the top - a damper. They are wrapped around the hips and fastened at the waist, and the floors do not converge and the shirt is visible in the gap. This is an old swing poneva. The deaf one appeared later, when they began to close the hole with a cloth of another matter - prdshva.

They usually made poneva from woolen homespun, blue or black, in a large cage. This ornament was supplemented with an embroidered or woven pattern; the young women also sewed on ribbons, tassels, buttons, sequins. The local attire is generally characterized by increased patterning. For example, on the shoulders of a shirt, already saturated with embroidery and weaving, red rectangles were often sewn - raids. The shirt itself is sutselny and very long. It was pulled up to the knees, and a large lap was formed at the belt, which was used as a pocket. Because of this bag, Ryazanka in the old days was often teased as "skant-bellied".

The complete ensemble also included a pommel of an ancient tunic-like cut and an apron covering a tear or seam. You will see all this in the illustrations. But about the headdress of a married woman - kichka should be said especially. This is a whole structure, sometimes consisting of ten parts, and weighing up to seven kilograms. In some places it was called "magpie" - according to the upper part, resembling a bird with wings when unfolded. In front of her, horns often towered. Apparently they are

Zans with some very ancient ideas, for the clay female figurines excavated in Kyiv also have two-horned headdresses. On top of the kichka, they put on a forehead, nape, magpie, headphones embroidered with gold or beads ... Oddly enough, Russian women did not want to part with all this for a long time. I. S. Turgenev tells how one landowner ordered the serfs to replace the “heavy and ugly” kits with a kokoshnik, but the peasants wore it ... over the kits. The fervent ditty is also known: “I will never throw Ryazan horns: I will eat one chaff, but I will not throw my horns! ..”

The ancestors of this woman moved to Siberia with whole families, hence the name - "the family of Transbaikalia." In great purity they carried ancient customs and rituals through the centuries and almost to this day they wear traditional clothes. In the figure we see an ensemble common to Rus': a shirt, a sundress, an apron, a kichka, a shawl. True, all this with details peculiar to the family. For example, the shawl is tied in a special way - like a turban, and on the chest there are several strands of amber beads. Sometimes there were up to twelve of them, and individual ambers were so massive that they were called pound ones.

A kind of Siberian costume. Russian people moved to Siberia from various places in European Russia. Over time, their usual outfits changed in new environmental conditions. Moreover, the settlers borrowed a lot from local peoples, especially warm clothes and shoes. So, in the lower reaches of the Ob, men and women wore a Nenets malitsa made of reindeer fur with wool inside, with a hood and mittens. They also mastered new fabrics, because flax and hemp did not grow everywhere. For example, in Transbaikalia, everyday sundresses were sewn from blue cotton daba, which was brought from China, while oriental silks were widely used for festive ones. However, in general, the traditional costume was preserved in Siberia and even acquired unique features, especially where the settlers lived in large villages, sacredly keeping the customs of their fatherly antiquity.

The composition of men's clothing was the same everywhere. But about the patchwork, from which shirts and ports were sewn along with the canvas, it is worth telling. This is a checkered or striped fabric made from dyed yarn. The colors and patterns are sometimes delightful - it’s not for nothing that the village dandies wore sundresses of motley. The cage went to the shirts, and the stripe to the pants, which were called so - blue-striped.

Peasants all over Russia dressed like this: a shirt, ports and a belt.
On the head is a groshnevik - a widespread headdress made of felted wool.
Sometimes it was decorated with ribbons and flowers.

Finally, shoes. We got used to the idea that in the village everyone wore bast shoes. But they were worn mainly in the Central Black Earth provinces, where serfdom had a stronger effect. Here they even got married and buried in bast shoes. But the steppes, Pomors, Siberians did not know them at all. In the North, bast shoes were woven for work, because they are indispensable for mowing or reaping: they are comfortable, light and you can’t prick your leg. On holidays, they wore leather shoes - boots, half boots, shoes. And also cats with a red trim - something like shoes more spacious, so that the leg in a woolen stocking enters. Both men and women wore knee-length knitted stockings with a patterned description, but with bast shoes - usually white linen or cloth onuchi. It seems to be the most uncomplicated detail of the costume, but how much fiction is there! The upholstery with which shoes were tied to the foot were often woven from black wool - imagine how beautifully they crossed over the festive onuch!

Festive men's shirt. Semipalatinsk province. Late 19th - early 20th century.
The men's clothing of the so-called "Bukhtar-Minsk Old Believers" who lived in the Southern Altai was very colorful. In terms of the richness of the decorations, the shirt you see is not much inferior to the women's one: kumach gores and stripes, embroidery and hemstitching. Preparing a gift for the groom, the bride with special diligence embroidered the top of her chest, where, according to ancient beliefs, the soul lived. The pattern in the form of a lattice located there was called a window and decorated with beads.

Beauty and usefulness have never diverged from meaning in folk art. Let's remember the patterns on shirts, ponevs, aprons: Women with raised hands, the unfading Tree of Life, solar rhombuses with crosses in the middle... Scientists have proved that they all express the idea of ​​mother earth's fertility, which is so close to the farmer's soul. And the upper part of the costume was connected with the idea of ​​the sky. Take, for example, the names of women's headdresses, reminiscent of birds: magpie, chicken (in the old kokoshi), swan (“white swan kitchet”). Thus, dressed in her festive multi-layered outfit, the Russian peasant woman was an image of the whole universe, as people imagined it then. She looked majestic, representative; performed solemnly.

Festive men's ports. Semipalatinsk province. Late 19th - early 20th century.
Having moved to the slopes of Altai in the 18th century, the "Bukhtarma" people were forced to adapt to other living conditions. And over time, new features appeared in their costume. For example, embroideries on men's pants, which are extremely rare in European Russia. Moreover, the ornament often combined Russian and Kazakh motifs. In our example, the traditional Tree of Life will face quite realistic horses, which played such an important role in the lives of the settlers.

It is always very important what stands behind a person. The Russian peasant lived in poverty and was often illiterate. But behind him was his native nature, from which he did not separate himself, a great people with its historical and spiritual experience, the most ancient of cultures - agriculture. The peasant served them, he was their representative. This was expressed with such force in his suit.

Men's and women's suits for winter trips. Central provinces of Russia.
The woman is wearing a sheepskin coat, the peasant is wearing a cloth zipun. The artist modernized it somewhat: the Russians fastened their clothes only on the left side. Fur coats and sheepskin coats were made with a very deep smell, so that the mother could even wrap up the child. On the head of a man is a handy felted hat, a woman has a factory-made shawl over a kokoshnik. Bast shoes with warm onuchs or wire rod, patterned knitted mittens. Whip in hand - and go!

Apron with agricultural calendars - "months". Olonets province. End of the 19th century.
The intricate patterns embroidered on the Kargopol apron are nothing but ancient agricultural calendars. Six petals and six sprouts inside the circle represent 12 months, and the symbols outside are the most important milestones of the annual circle of field work. For example, May 2 - "Boris-Gleb - I sow bread", May 31 - "Fedot will come - the earth will be taken for its kind." Similar calendars were embroidered on the hem of shirts and on towels. You can understand how they valued these things, carefully passing them by inheritance.

A. LEBEDEVA,
Candidate of Historical Sciences
Drawings by N. Vinogradova, G. Voronova

Each nation has its own traditions, customs, history of its development, built up over the centuries, and, accordingly, its own original and unique national costumes.

National costumes, traditions

There is a wonderful tradition: to use the national costume not only for any national holiday, but also during leisure periods, for example, among friends and relatives. Such a bright, colorful and positive moment of life can be observed in Sweden, Germany, America and other countries, which causes respect.

This spectacle is in its own way attractive, bewitching, kind and colorful.

Every person must know the history of his nation. Belonging to certain age-old traditions and customs gives him a sense of significance in life.

The formation of any folk costume with its specific ornament, cut and other features was greatly influenced by environmental factors: climate, lifestyle, geographical location and the main occupations of the nation.

National costumes (photo) of Russia

Russia is inhabited by peoples of various nationalities: Russians, Tatars, Mordovians, Udmurts, Bashkirs, Chuvashs, Kalmyks, etc. Each nation values ​​and carefully preserves its individual and rich culture, especially its folk costumes.

In Rus', all national costumes from ancient times had unique features depending on the region and nation, and, in addition, each nation was divided into everyday and festive ones.

By clothes one could judge a person, where he came from, to which nation and social class he belongs. In all national costumes, especially in their decoration, symbolic information, peculiar only to a certain nation, about customs, gender, occupations and various events has long been embedded.

The cut of clothes, their ornament and details have absorbed the individual feature of all Russian peoples - beauty and diligence.

Russian folk clothes: the history of appearance

The main difference between the Russian national costume is its layering, amazing richness of decoration and a rather simple, almost straight or slightly flared cut of the silhouette. The colors of the clothes were mostly bright and cheerful.

With all the variety of folk clothes in Rus', the bulk women's costume the word-of-mouth sets were presented by North Russian and South Russian (it is more ancient). And the shirt has always and everywhere been an indispensable basis for women's outfits. Usually they were sewn from linen or cotton, but more expensive ones were made from silk fabric.

Almost all Russian national costumes were supplemented beautiful decorations on collars and sleeves of shirts and dresses: embroidery, buttons, braid, sequins, patterns and appliqués. Often, a unique ornament also adorned the breast part of the shirt. Moreover, all these additions in different provinces and regions differed and were individual, special.

In any country and every people, an important part of the image of the nation, state and culture is its own traditional national dress.

Folk costume is a kind of one of the ways to express yourself on a national and even global scale.

November 24, 2011, 03:21 pm

I have always been interested in different costumes. various countries and epochs. In my opinion, through the costumes you can understand a lot about the country and about the time. At all times, women loved to adorn themselves and did it with everyone. possible ways. And of course, clothing played a huge role in any society. I would like to introduce you to the costumes different countries peace... Azerbaijan The simplicity of the cut and the richness of the finish - that's the whole philosophy of the oriental costume. This is exactly how the Azerbaijanis traditionally dressed, the descendants of the ancient Turkic tribes, representatives of one of the largest and most ancient peoples of the Caucasus.
England Although England is a country with rich national traditions, it does not, strictly speaking, have a well-defined national costume. As an example of English folk costume, the costumes of dancers performing the Morris dance are often cited. Argentina There is no national costume in Argentina as such. Argentina is a country of immigrants from Italy, Spain, Germany, Ukraine, etc., who preserve their traditions. Only the clothes of gaucho shepherds and their wives can be attributed to national clothes this South American country. Belarus The Belarusian costume, having common roots with the Ukrainian and Russian national costumes and being formed on the basis of the mutual influence of Lithuanian, Polish, Russian and Ukrainian traditions, nevertheless differs in originality and is an independent phenomenon. Bulgaria The folk Bulgarian costume is very diverse both in the styles of clothes and in its colors. Its form known to us today was formed in the feudal period and developed in subsequent centuries. Butane In Bhutan, men's suits are called "gho" and women's "kira" Hawaii One of the most popular and simple suits Hawaiian
Germany The traditional costume of the Bavarians (Germans) is the well-known trachten (German: Trachten) - both male and female costumes and Dirndl (German: Dirndl) - only the female national costume. The name Trachten came from the era of romanticism, it was in those days that they started talking about national traditions, about how people lived, talked, sang, celebrated and dressed, and what was considered the basis of the culture of the nation. Greece
Georgia In the Georgian tradition. clothes were both for luxurious and refined, for the nobility, and simpler, for artisans and poorer people, there was both a strict elegance of masculinity and a gentle grace of femininity, the character of a person, his occupation, habits were brightly highlighted in it.
Egypt In ancient Egypt, the most common type of clothing was draped clothing, later - overhead, but never swinging. The cut and form of clothing (both male and female) has changed very slowly over the centuries; For a long time, clothes of different classes differed only in the quality of the fabric and in the finish.
India Indian women's clothing varies by region of the country. Traditional Indian clothing, without which it is impossible to imagine an Indian woman, is called a sari. Sari is the national Indian clothing, differ in appearance, materials, embroidery in different regions. Spain The Spanish folk costume, in the form that it became a fact of fine culture, took shape in the 18th-19th centuries. Its formation was facilitated by the culture of majo - the social stratum of the Spanish dandies from the common people, who emphasized their origin. Kazakhstan Previously, there was a deliberate destruction of traditions throughout the 20th century. During the seventy years of the Soviet period, traditions were fought in Kazakhstan as “remnants of the past.” But today, Kazakhstan is confidently embarking on the path of reviving its culture. China The Chinese national costume has a lot of red and golden yellow, which are traditionally considered the colors of wealth and prosperity.
Norway The design of the Norwegian national costume is based on local folk costumes that were on the verge of extinction. UAE - United Arab Emirates Clothing of Bedouin women in ancient times was quite consistent with men's. Portugal Portuguese clothing is dominated by red and black colors, men wear waistcoats with sashes, and women wear wide skirts with aprons. Russia A distinctive feature of the Russian national costume is a large number of outerwear. Clothes cape and oar. The cape was worn over the head, the swing had a slit from top to bottom and was fastened end-to-end with hooks or buttons. Türkiye The traditional costumes of the Turks are the most diverse among the Turkic peoples. Ukraine Ukrainian women's traditional costume has many local variants. The ethnographic features of the historical and cultural regions of Ukraine in clothing manifested themselves in the silhouette, cut, individual parts of clothing, ways of wearing it, color decoration, jewelry. France Women's folk costume consisted of a wide skirt with ruffles, jackets with sleeves, corsage, apron, cap or hat. Men's suit- these are pants, leggings, a shirt, a vest, a jacket (or a wide blouse reaching mid-thigh), a neckerchief and a hat. Czech In the Czech Republic, in areas with traditional geographical divisions, the costumes of the various folk strata have undergone a complex process of development. Japan Since the middle of the 19th century, Kimono has been the Japanese “national costume”. The kimono is also the workwear of geishas and maiko (future geishas).
The end))) I hope you liked it ... it took me more than 2 hours to write this post)))

Russian national costume can be conditionally divided into the costume of Kievan and North-Eastern Rus' of the X-XIV centuries, the costume of Moscow Rus' of the XV-XVII centuries, the folk costume of the XVIII - early XX centuries. In addition, in each time period, one can distinguish a costume traditional for commoners, and outfits of noble people. Before the adoption of Christianity in the clothes of the ancient Slavs, the features of the Scythian costume (shirts, pants) can be traced.

The main materials for clothing during this period were linen and wool. In the 10th century, under the influence of the new faith, silk tunics that came from Byzantium appeared in the costumes of princes and their entourage, cloaks with a red lining, tunics, dalmatics, and draped cloaks appeared in the wardrobe of their wives and daughters. The clothes of noble people were made from expensive imported fabrics and decorated with gold and silver embroidery, jewelry, and furs.

In the Petrine and subsequent eras, the costume of the nobility changes greatly and becomes no longer a Russian national costume, but a kind of European one. Only in the peasant and partly merchant environment are the old traditions preserved. Men still wear shirts, ports, zipuns and caftans, sheepskin coats. The women's costume practically does not change either. The main women's clothing continues to be a shirt and sundress.

In different areas, different colors and ways of cutting sundresses were traditional. In the 18th century they were sewn from canvas and calico red or of blue color and decorated with a central vertical strip of ribbon, lace, a number of buttons, the same ribbon was sewn along the bottom of the hem, at the top of the sundress, and sometimes under the chest. In the 19th century, sundresses were sewn from chintz, calico, satin, satin and other purchased fabrics, often not plain, but patterned, at the top the fabric was gathered into small folds. Such items of clothing as epancha, dushegreya, poneva and apron continue to be an accessory of the women's costume.

The basis of the women's folk costume of the X-XIV centuries was a long shirt with long sleeves, decorated on the neck with embroidery or a strip of fabric in a contrasting color. They never wore a shirt just like that; they put on a poneva, a zapon or a bib on top. Poneva is a skirt below the knees, consisting of three rectangular pieces of fabric connected at the waist with a belt. Ponevs were usually sewn from bright colored fabric.

The zapona was straight dress sleeveless, crew neck, side slits from waist to bottom. The zapon was tied with a cord. The bib is the top Short dress With short sleeves and a round neckline, embellished along the hem and neckline with embroidery or stripes of a fabric of a different color. By the headdress, one could judge the marital status of a woman. unmarried girls they wore bandages or hoops, and the married ones covered their heads with a warrior (something like a scarf) and an ubrus (a piece of long fabric that was tied around the head in a certain way).

In the women's costume of the XV-XVII centuries, some innovations also appear, although it is still based on a straight long shirt. A sundress is now worn over it - a kind of dress with a straight bodice with straps and a flared skirt. Peasant women sew it from linen, and noble girls from silk and brocade. In front of the sundress, in the center from top to bottom, a strip of wide braid or embroidered fabric in a contrasting color was sewn. The sundress was belted under the chest. In addition, the top women's clothing there was a dushegreya - short oar clothes with straps, with or without lining. The soul warmer was sewn from beautiful patterned fabrics and additionally decorated with embroidered braid along the edge.

Merchant and boyar daughters at that time wore a letnik over their shirts - long dress straight cut with wide sleeves, sewn to the elbow like a bell, and then simply hanging down almost to the floor. Several wedges were sewn into the side parts of the dress, due to which the clothes became very wide at the bottom. The collar and hanging sleeves were richly decorated with pearls, embroidered with gold and silk. Warm outerwear was a fur coat with long sleeves. Telogreya was a long swinging garment with folding sleeves, fastened with buttons or ties.

An important element of the women's costume was a headdress. Girls do not cover their heads, but decorate their braids with colored ribbons and beads, put hoops or crowns on their heads. Married women wear "kichki" - headdresses consisting of a hoop, a cloth cover and a decorated backdrop. At the same time, a kokoshnik appeared - a headdress with a dense front part of various shapes, richly decorated with gold and silver embroidery, pearls and precious stones. The kokoshnik was tied at the back with wide ribbons, sometimes precious pendants or beads fell on the forehead and temples in front. Behind the kokoshnik could attach thin beautiful fabrics, which fell in folds to the waist, and even to the floor. In winter, noble ladies wore fur hats, like men's.

Shirts and ports were the traditional everyday wear of commoners in the 10th-14th centuries. Shirts were sewn from linen fabric of various colors or variegated length below the hips with one-piece sleeves. They were worn loose and tied at the waist with a colored cord or a narrow belt. On holidays, the shirt was complemented with embroidered cuffs and round collars.
Ports are men's pants that taper to the bottom and tie at the waist with a drawstring. The traditional shoes of the peasants (both men and women) were bast shoes, instead of socks in those days there were onuchi, strips of fabric that were tied around the feet and ankles. Men wore felt caps on their heads.

In the XV-XVII centuries, the everyday costume of the peasants changes somewhat. So the traditional cut on the neck of a men's shirt moves from the center to the left side, and the shirt itself becomes shorter and gets the name "kosovorotka". Opening clothes appear, fastened with buttons: a zipun and a caftan. The zipun was a cloth dress above the knees, slightly widened at the bottom, with narrow sleeves and a butt closure.

Kaftan is outerwear below the knee length with long sleeves and a high collar. Caftans of noble boyars were usually richly decorated with expensive fabrics, embroidery, braid or galloon. Outerwear for winter was a fur coat, long, with wide sleeves and a large collar lined with sable, fox, hare, arctic fox, squirrel, sheepskin. From above, a fur coat was usually covered with cloth (the peasants used cloth for this, and the boyars used expensive imported fabrics).

During this period, the costumes of the feudal nobility and peasants began to differ more and more, and not only in the quality of fabrics and finishes, but even in the cut of clothes. In the 15th-17th centuries, the wardrobe of noble people included such items of clothing as a feryaz and an okhaben. Feryaz - a caftan of a special cut, floor-length with long sleeves, sewn from silk or velvet fabric. It was customary to put on a feryaz only on one arm, while tightly gathering up the long sleeve, while the second hung freely behind almost to the floor.

Okhaben was also a kind of caftan with a large square collar that hung down the back and long sleeves tied at the back. Such a caftan was worn on the shoulders. Both of these items of clothing were completely unsuitable for performing any work and were intended only to emphasize the class affiliation of their owner.