09.03.2021

Colored hemstitching on white dresses. What is hemstitch in embroidery


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Dress "White hemstitch" with lacing on the back. The dress is knitted from threads "Anna" - 100% mercerized cotton, 100 gr - 530 m, hook No. 1.25. For a size 46 dress, it took about 5 skeins of yarn.

  • interesting selection on the site !!!
  • beautiful fishnet dresses

The dress is knitted by alternating stripes from motifs according to scheme 1 and the main fabric according to scheme 2. The dress is knitted from the bottom up, but I started work from the strip at the bottom of the dress according to scheme 2 and alternated as you see in the photo (the width of the stripes can be made narrower if desired or wider), and then when the dress was knitted, I tied a strip of motifs according to scheme 1 to the bottom, but I tried to make it so that there was a light frill.

The threads "Anna" are very cool, but a little harsh, so if you make a strong shuttlecock, it will bulge ugly. The expansion or narrowing of the canvas, necessary for the pattern, is done by adding or subtracting double crochets in scheme No. 2, but it is necessary to carefully calculate the number of additions or subtractions so as not to disturb the rapport of the pattern. The neck is tied with a single crochet, and the armholes with a single crochet with picot. The bottom of the dress is tied according to scheme 3. For lacing on the back, I tied a “caterpillar” cord and put mother-of-pearl beads under pearls on the ends of the cord. I made the pattern individually for the customer and it is not here, the diagrams are attached.

Dress knitting patterns:




White on white embroidery has become widespread in many countries. In the second half of the 19th century, this smooth surface was famous in Great Britain, France, Belgium, Germany, and Switzerland. In the language of folk symbols in many countries, color in clothes, as well as in embroidery, plays a major role. For example, the white color in Russia has long been associated with the idea of ​​light, of heaven. The perception of white was associated with the meaning of happiness, abundance, purity, innocence and beauty.




Mstyora expanse

The Mstyora surface originated in the village of Mstyora in the Vladimir province in the middle of the 19th century. It is distinguished by its sophistication and miniature floral patterns with white threads on thin white cotton fabric such as voile and batiste. The main technique of this embroidery is a two-sided surface, which is done with stitches closely adjacent to each other, arranging them in the form of a motif from the front and back sides of the fabric. It is usually performed with a thin needle with floss threads in 1-2 additions. In the figure, where a bulge is required, flooring is made from the same threads.


The surface combines various relief elements with and without flooring, with strokes, eyelets and half-loops, stalk suture. The patterns are complemented by openwork lattices, banners, holes, knots and nets. All this creates a decorative embroidery, made in one color. Larger petals are embroidered in bulk.


In the white smooth surface there are motifs made with holes and a slotted smooth surface. Holes are obtained by puncturing with a special bone, wooden or metal stick with a pointed end. If the holes are large, they are made with scissors, cutting the fabric in the future hole vertically and horizontally from both sides (slit stitch). Leaves of an elongated shape are sometimes also made with a slotted satin stitch.


“Banners” are one of the most decorative elements of the white Mstyora surface, although laborious. "Banners" are performed on thin fabrics with plain weave. The needle pulls together a square of fabric in which, for example, three warp threads are intertwined with three weft threads. Before making a banner on a dense fabric, it is necessary to cut one or two warp and weft threads at the edge of the pattern and pull it out. Sometimes the Mstera smooth surface is beautifully combined with hemstitch.


Blouses, collars, handkerchiefs, nightgowns, bed linen, bedspreads, and of course, are decorated with Mstyora smoothness.



English white surface also belongs to approximately the same kind of embroidery, but here all the same, holes and scallops mostly prevail. Almost all motifs are twigs with leaves in the form of holes, sheathed around the satin stitch. This surface is called - English white work - "whitework" or "Broderie Anglaise" - "English embroidery". This embroidery was extremely popular in England in the 19th century, although it is believed that it originated in the 16th century in Eastern Europe.


Embroidery patterns are leaves, vines, stems, made with simple embroidery stitches. Basically, these are small drawings. Holes are made in the same way as in the Mstyora smooth surface, but in some cases, patterns are first embroidered on the fabric, and then holes are cut out with scissors.


From the 1870s, Broderie Anglaise began to be made on a Swiss embroidery machine. Today, Broderie Anglaise is made primarily by machine.


Broderie Anglaise was once popular for women's lingerie and children's clothing. Since the mid-1950s, English embroidery has been used not only for trimming underwear, but also in women's dresses.


Today, both Mstyora satin and English embroidery are popular in many styles of clothing and complement each other perfectly.


Light silk dresses with narrow straps, reminiscent of slips, or white dresses with the most uncomplicated cut, are decorated with beautiful decorative embroidery. The decoration is sometimes frills, embroidered to match the color of the fabric. Most often, these are white, beige and other pastel colors, but black is not canceled.

We make the dress from a rare white fabric, we cut the yoke along an oblique thread. First, on a piece of fabric intended for a coquette, we pull out the threads. Stepping back 7 cm from the edge, we pull out 1 thread of fabric, we tie a skein of floss to the second of blue color and carefully pull it into the fabric. Through 2 threads of fabric, we repeat the same operation and pull through a gray floss. This operation is repeated every 4 cm to the middle of the coquette. In the same sequence, we draw colored threads on the second side of the coquette and proceed to the implementation of the cloves. To do this, we draw 10 threads 3 cm from the edge (the width of the threaded track is 10 mm). We sew the lower edge of the hemstitch with a “tassel” hemstitch with a thin white bobbin thread, taking 6 threads of fabric into a column.

Rice. 113. Dress for a girl, decorated with threaded colored threads and cloves

We sew the upper edge of the hemstitch with a gray floss with a decorative seam (see Fig. 100). Let's start on the right. 3 threads above the edge of the hemstitch, we bring the needle with the working thread to the front side at point 1; grabbing the edge of the hemstitch, we stick the needle inside out at point 2. On the front side, stitch 1-2 is obtained. On the wrong side, we insert the needle through 5 threads of fabric above point 1 to point 3, we go out again to the front side.

By moving from left to right, we pick up the hemstitch column and stick the needle into point 6, which is 6 threads of fabric away from point 3 and lies along the same horizontal thread. We stretch the working thread to the wrong side, tighten the third, fourth, fifth and sixth columns of hemstitch with a cross. After counting 5 threads of fabric on the wrong side, we bring the needle to the front side at point 7 to complete the next stitch.

Having processed the outer edges of the coquette, through 2 threads above the hemstitch we stretch a skein of blue floss, and through 2 threads from it - gray. We bend the hemstitch in half so that the columns are displaced (the lower half of each column should be aligned with the upper half of the adjacent column). We sweep both halves of the hemstitch to secure it in this position.

We baste the yoke to the bodice and attach it on the machine exactly along the threads of the fabric after 7 mm from the upper gray thread. With a “forward needle” seam, we mask the machine stitch. We carry out stitches with a length of 4 threads of fabric with a skein of blue floss from the center of the yoke to the sides.

Dress for a little girl (Fig. 125)

The front is cut along an oblique thread. Colored threads and “tassel” hemstitches 0.5-0.7 cm wide are made in strips alternating every 3 cm along the longitudinal and transverse lines of the fabric.


Rice. 125. Child dress, trimmed with threaded colored threads and hemstitches

edge round yoke underlined with a stitch made with a needle-forward stitch with threads of the same color that are threaded into the fabric.

Dress on a yoke (Fig. 114)

The dress is made of linen yellow color. On the yoke we draw brown and red threads every 4 cm in this sequence.

We pull out 2 adjacent threads from the fabric, tie a skein of brown floss to the third and draw it into the fabric. Through 4 threads of fabric, we again pull out 2 threads, with the help of the third we stretch a skein of red floss. Again, we skip 4 threads, pull out 2, and with the third we draw in a skein of brown floss. After 4 cm from the last brown thread drawn in, we again draw the same group of threads. So we decorate the yoke with horizontal stripes.


Rice. 114. Dress on a yoke, decorated with threaded threads and tassels

We work vertically in a slightly different way. We outline the line of the edge of the coquette, on the right along this line we cut 2 adjacent threads of the fabric and pull them out. After cutting the third one and pulling it up a little, we tie a skein of brown floss to it and thread it into the fabric, leaving a free end 6 cm long from below. After 4 threads to the left of the first laid thread, we again cut 2 adjacent fabric threads and pull them out. With the help of the third trimmed thread, we draw a skein of red floss, leaving a free end also 6 cm long. After another 4 threads to the left, we similarly pull the second skein of brown floss. We perform such groups of delays every 4 cm.

Having bent the resulting tassels inward, we fold the front side of the yoke with the bodice along the line of the edge of the yoke, sweep and sew on the machine so that the sewing line lies 1-2 threads further than the beginning of holding the colored threads. Having stretched out the basting, lay out the details on the front side, straighten the brushes. On the machine, we lay a line on the front side along the colored threads along the very edge of the hold to secure the brushes. And only after that we level all the brushes with scissors to the desired length.

Dress decorated with star hemstitch (Fig. 119)

The same hemstitches are used on the bodice of the dress and sleeves. The sleeves are cut on an oblique thread, due to which the pattern looks different.


Rice. 119. Dress decorated with star, punk and tassel hemstitches


Rice. 120. Embroidery scheme

We carry out from light gray linen fabric. We embroider stars with pink floss in 4 threads, punk and tassel - with light brown floss in 2 threads.

4 cm below the neckline with a cut, we outline a square ABSD with a side of 8 cm (Fig. 120). We divide side AB into three equal parts at points E and P. We pull out one thread from points E and P to the DS line. We do the same on the AD side.

To the right and to the left of the inner lines, we stretch so many threads to make tracks 0.4 cm wide. From point A, we additionally stretch the leftmost thread of the square upwards by 2 cm; in the same way, we lengthen the upper thread of the square to the left from point A. From the points obtained, by cutting one thread at a time, we build a square 1. We perform similar operations at the remaining corners of the square and get small squares 1, 2, 3, 4.

After that, down from the line AB, grabbing the threads lying directly under the lower sides of the small squares 1 and 2, we pull out so many threads to get a threaded strip of fabric 0.4 cm wide. We make the same paths on the other three sides of the large square. 13 small squares are formed, separated by threaded strips of fabric 0.4 cm wide.

We embroider squares 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 with an asterisk hemstitch. On the 6th square we embroider a punk, taking the threads into the first lower row that form the lower left side column of the asterisk hemstitch of the 5th square. We embroider the second row of punks on the threads of the fabric, collected in a column of an asterisk, lying above the first; the third row is the threads of the third column, and so on until the entire 6th square is processed. If the fabric is very dense, to get a beautiful and even stitching, the topmost thread of each asterisk column must be pulled out, but only within the 6th square.

After completing the subline in the 6th square, we embroider an asterisk in the 7th and 9th squares. Then we proceed to perform the subline in the 8th square. Here the rows of punks form the columns of the right side of the 9th square, and the columns of the first and all subsequent rows are the same as the columns of the upper horizontal side of the 5th square. Similarly, the rows of the subline of the 10th square correspond to the horizontal columns of the 9th square, and the columns of the subline coincide with the columns of the 7th square (its upper side). The 11th, 12th and 13th squares are performed sequentially one after the other. The remaining raw edges of the threaded hemstitches are sheathed with a brush and a satin roller.

We perform hemstitching on the sleeves in the same way, but with an additional brush we combine the 1st square with the 2nd and 4th, the 2nd with the 3rd, the 3rd with the 4th (see the dotted line in Fig. 120) .

Having processed the neckline and the edges of the sleeves in the usual way, we sew one row of cloves with brown threads along the hem with a buttonhole seam. The size of one brid is 7 mm. In the middle of the brida we make an air loop.

The same hemstitch can be trimmed with a sundress (Fig. 121).

We perform hemstitching on pockets according to the description. On the top of the bodice and the bottom of the hem, we embroider a track with an asterisk hemstitch. The size of each square is 2x2 cm, the distance between the squares is 2 cm. 0.5 cm above and below the squares, we make strips with a “set” seam. In this case, we embroider an asterisk on a non-threaded fabric.


Rice. 121. Sundress embroidered with hemstitch "asterisk"

Dress (Fig. 122)

An asterisk hemstitch decorated half of the front of the bodice and the hem.

Rice. 122. Dress decorated with star hemstitch

We pull out 1-2 threads of fabric every 4 cm along the entire length of one half of the front of the bodice. We also pull out the transverse threads after 4 cm, but be sure to start from the central thread of the front. Here we cut the necessary threads and pull them out, making sure that there are no puffs of threads on the other half of the bodice. On the finished grid in a checkerboard pattern, we perform the “star” hemstitch.

On the bottom of the skirt we embroider a strip of the same hemstitch squares. Its width is 4-12 cm, that is, 1-3 rows. We arrange the squares on the strip also in a checkerboard pattern. In the center of the empty squares, you can embroider roses using the rococo technique.

If it is made of woolen fabric, the Mode Elegance atelier recommends using silk threads in the color of the fabric for hemstitching.

Dress decorated with shabak hemstitch (Fig. 133)


Rice. 133. Dress trimmed with shabak hemstitch

In this model, the armhole line and hem are decorated with hemstitch.

We make a hemstitch for the bodice on a separate strip of fabric 7.5 cm wide. In the middle of the strip we draw a track 3.5 cm wide and embroider 7 rows of shabak hemstitch on it, using half of the pattern used to finish the previous model (see Fig. 132 ). We tack the embroidered strip to the bodice and sleeves. On the finished dress along the hemstitch with a brown thread, we embroider single crosses 3x3 mm. Each cross is 1 cm apart from the other, and 0.5 cm from the hemstitch.

On the skirt, we perform hemstitching with a width of 6.5 cm (13 rows) on solid fabric, taking into account the hem. At 0.7 cm above the hemstitch, we embroider single crosses with an interval of 1.2-1.5 cm.

Dress decorated with hems and embroidered stalked seam (Fig. 136)

The width of the finishing strip of the hemstitch is 9 cm. We embroider a floss in 4 threads.

Along the left half of the bodice we draw a path 0.5 cm wide, after 2.5 cm - a path 0.3 cm wide, after 0.3 cm another path 0.3 cm wide. Then, leaving 0.7 cm of solid fabric, we pull out a strip 0.3 cm, after 0.3 cm we again draw 0.3 cm and after 2.5 cm the last strip 0.5 cm wide.

We fill the fabric in the hoop, fasten the working thread on three threads of fabric in the middle of the first hemstitch, forming a column, pulled together in the middle. Then we wrap the next columns, capturing 6 threads each time and piercing the needle back through 3 threads back. The working thread lies on the hemstitch freely without knots. It turns out oblique stitches that overlap each other (stem stitch along the hem). We do not sheathe the outer edges of the hemstitch. On both sides of the hemstitch at a distance of 3 threads, we embroider a strip with a set. We pick up 3 threads on the needle, we also skip 3 threads under the needle (Fig. 137).


Rice. 136. Dress trimmed with hems and embroidered stem stitch


Rice. 137. Stem seam along the hemstitch

On narrow strips (0.3 cm wide) we embroider a “punk” hemstitch, taking 4 threads of fabric into a column. Between two punks we embroider crosses 4x4 threads. We perform the second wide hemstitch (0.5 cm) with a stalk seam, like the first one.

On the right half of the bodice we embroider a branch with a stalk seam.

Dress embroidered with simple hems (Fig. 139)

We process the neckline, sleeves and bottom of the dress with scalloped stitches with an orange thread. We put the stitches of the buttonhole seam very tightly to each other. The width of each festoon is 4 mm, the length is 40 mm.


Rice. 139. Dress embroidered with simple hems

On the bodice 13 mm from the line of scallops, framing the slit, we embroider a “column into a split” hemstitch 5 mm wide with a brown floss. After 10 mm from it, we embroider a “flashlight” hemstitch with a width of 22 mm.

For a “flashlight” hemstitch, we pull out the threads in the following sequence: pull out 2 mm, leave 4 mm, pull out 10 mm, leave 4 mm, pull out 2 mm. On solid strips of fabric, we embroider a “punk” hemstitch with an orange thread. We do not process the outer edges of the hemstitch, therefore, in the extreme narrow tracks 2 mm wide, after performing the punk, we get the “tassel” hemstitch. All hems are embroidered with floss in 2 threads. We make a flashlight with a brown floss in 6 threads. After 10 mm from the “flashlight” hemstitch, we embroider the “column into a split” hemstitch with a width of 8 mm with brown floss. This hemstitch is 10 mm shorter than the previous one.

The skirt consists of three flounces. When cutting, we cut off the lower edge of the shuttlecocks along a straight thread, and make the upper one slightly concave.

On the upper shuttlecock, 3 cm from the connecting seam, we perform one strip of hemstitch "column into a split" 8 mm wide with brown threads. On the middle shuttlecock, stepping back 3 cm from the lower connecting seam, we perform a “flashlight” hemstitch and 13 mm higher - “a split column”. On the lower flounce and sleeves, we place the hemstitches in the same way. 20 mm above the scallops, we embroider a “column into a split” hemstitch 8 mm wide with brown floss. After 13 mm from it, we perform a “flashlight” hemstitch with a width of 22 mm, and we embroider the punk with an orange thread, and the flashlight with brown. 13 mm higher from the flashlight, we perform the last hemstitch - “column into a split” 8 mm wide with brown floss.

We finish the neckline with a narrow stand, into which we pull a cord woven from brown threads. At the ends of the lace we make tassels.

The belt is also made of brown threads.

Dress trimmed with connecting hemstitches (Fig. 143)

This dress can be made from linen fabric in three colors, such as white, gray and blue. When cutting, it is necessary to ensure that the edges of the joints lie along the longitudinal thread of the fabric.


Rice. 143. Dress trimmed with connecting hemstitches

We connect the sleeves with the bodice as follows: on the wrong side of the part, we sew it on the machine or manually with stitches “over the edge”, capturing several threads of the fabric of each part. Stepping back 4 mm, on both sides of the seam we draw tracks 3-4 mm wide for hemstitches. We mask the connecting seam with a figure-eight or velvet seam, while separating the threads of the threaded fabric into hemstitch columns. If the sleeves are blue and the bodice is white, we sew the camouflage seam with gray threads. We sew the upper and lower edges of the hemstitches with a skein of floss or one thread of iris with a “tassel” hemstitch, making not inclined stitches, but vertical ones 5 mm high. On a white fabric, we make a brush with blue threads, and on a blue fabric - with white threads.

We also sew the upper (white) and middle (gray) parts of the skirt over the edge. Having stepped back 0.5 cm on both sides of the seam, we pull out tracks 0.4 cm wide, after 0.5 cm - one more track 0.4 cm wide. We sew the outer sides of the hemstitches with a buttonhole stitch with threads of contrasting colors: on white - gray, on gray - white. We mask the connecting seam with a figure-eight seam with thick blue threads. On top of the “figure eight” seam, with even thicker white threads, with a “half-cross” seam, we make a zigzag line, the stitches of which are three times smaller than the stitches of the velvet seam.

Then we sew the middle and lower (blue) part of the skirt. At a distance of 0.5 cm from the seam on both sides, we draw the tracks in the following sequence: pull out 0.4 cm, leave 0.5 cm, pull out 0.4 cm, leave 1 cm, pull out 0.5 cm. Six drawn paths are formed: three on gray fabric and three on blue. We mask the connecting seam with a figure-eight seam with gray threads.

On it with white threads we embroider a zigzag line. On the first strips from the seam (0.5 cm wide) we embroider a punk thin threads in fabric color. On strips 1 cm wide, we make a velvet seam with thick threads: on gray fabric - blue, on blue fabric - gray. When making a seam, we combine the threads of the last threaded track into columns of hemstitch. We sew the outer edges of the last hemstitches with white threads with a buttonhole seam, capturing the columns formed when making a velvet seam. The size of the vertical stitch is 5 mm.

We process the bottom of the sleeve and the neck with cloves. We embroider a “simple column” hemstitch, we carry out sheaves without a central thread on it. We bend the hemstitch in the center of the sheaves and hem.

From gray and blue threads, you can weave a cord with tassels at the ends.

Summer dress trimmed with cross stitching and hemstitches (Fig. 156)

This dress can be sewn from linen fabric. For embroidery, take the threads to match the fabric.

In the center of the bodice, we make a grid square with a side of 6.5 cm. We pull out the threads from the fabric in the following sequence: remove 0.5 cm, leave 1 cm, remove 0.5 cm, leave 1 cm, remove 0.5 cm, leave 1 cm, 0.5 cm is removed, 1 cm is left, 0.5 cm is removed. On the stretched strips, we make a grid.


Rice. 156. Dress trimmed with cross stitching and hemstitching

Above the square at a distance of 1.8 cm in the center we embroider a “bug” hemstitch 0.8 cm wide, 7 cm long. On every second bug we make a spider. On both sides of the “bug” hemstitch, at a distance of 1.6 cm, we perform “column-to-split” hemstitches 0.5 cm wide. After 1 cm from the “column-to-split” hemstitches, we perform grid rectangles 5x6.5 cm. On the short side, we draw 4 tracks , long - 5 tracks. 1 cm above the grid rectangles, we symmetrically embroider two strips of hemstitch “column into a split” 0.5 cm wide.

On the bottom of the dress, we perform grid rectangles in turn and in two rows a “column into a split” hemstitch. We draw 8 strips along the wide side of the grid, 3 strips along the narrow side.

Short set-in sleeve we finish with cloves made with a “bug” hemstitch without a central thread. 2 cm above the teeth, we embroider the same mesh as on the bottom of the dress, and above it we embroider the “bug” and “column into a split” hemstitch.

Linen dress (Fig. 158)

At a distance of 15 cm from the shoulder seam, we draw a triangular mesh 115x65 mm (vertical threaded tracks - 12, horizontal - 7). The width of the drawn paths is 0.5 cm. The dimensions of the lowest step of the grid are given in fig. 158b.

Rice. 158. A dress decorated with a sacral mesh and hemstitch: a - general view; b - scheme of the lower grid step

On both sides of the cutout, at a distance of 1 cm from the grid, we perform a “buckwheat” hemstitch 1 cm wide (the height of the columns is 0.7 cm), at some distance from it - a shorter “single buckwheat” hemstitch 0.8 cm wide (the column height is 0 .5 cm).

On the hem, we place the embroidery in a horizontal direction. In the center of the grid we carry out a strip of hemstitch 1 cm wide, lateral - 0.8 cm.

Neckline and hem short sleeves cut off with teeth. Cut off a transverse strip of fabric 3.5 cm wide; at a distance of 1.2 cm from the edge, we remove the threads in the following sequence: pull out 2 mm, leave 1 mm, pull out 6 mm, leave 1 mm, pull out 2 mm. We carry out a “single buckwheat” hemstitch with threads to match the fabric. We fasten the strip with the hemstitch with the front side to the dress along the neckline and sew on the machine at a distance of 1-2 mm from the edge.

We bend the strip along the sewing line, fold the hemstitch in half so that both halves of the buckwheat columns are aligned and holes form above them, bend the second edge of the strip inward by 5 mm, tack it to the product and attach it on the machine. Then, with an oblique stitch, we mask the machine stitch with dense stitches and fasten the cloves. Similarly, we perform cloves on the sleeves.

Dress decorated with Vologda stitching according to the letter (Fig. 161)

For the dress, we take a fabric with a plain weave. We cut the bodice along the shared thread. We perform embroidery on an insert 21 cm wide (ready-made). Dimensions of the embroidered elements: top width - 20 cm, bottom width - 8 cm, height - 10 cm.


Rice. 161. Dress decorated with Vologda stitching according to the letter

First we embroider a flower (see Fig. 50).


Rice. 50. Vologda line by letter

With a burgundy floss in a whole skein, we crochet a chain stitch. The stitch size of the chain stitch is 2-3 mm. We start by embroidering the inner parts of the flower. Having sheathed all the petals with a chain stitch, we make an overhead grid in the center. We put the threads for the grid at an acute angle to each other. We attach them to the fabric with one horizontal stitch 3 mm long.

Then we perform checkered satin in four side petals. Each checker has 4 stitches 5 mm long. We fill the upper petal of the flower with a fine mesh, placing the threads strictly perpendicular to each other. We attach their intersections to the fabric with inclined stitches 2 mm long. We pierce three holes and sheathe them with a satin roller. Inside the flower we embroider a strip with double-sided stitch.

Having embroidered the flower, we carry out the side petals, decorating them along the field with a zigzag seam and a straight stitch. Lastly, we embroider the leaves and the stem. Inside the stem and small leaves, we make paths with an oblique stitch, big leaves embroider with velvet stitch.

We sew the contours of the trapezoid with a looped seam with a twist or a dense satin roller. On the upper horizontal side, we cut the threads for the grid at the rate of: cut out 3 mm, set aside 2 mm on the column. We stretch them until they intersect with the outline of the flower or with the bottom and sides of the grid and cut them off.

We also cut and remove the threads on one of the sides. We wrap the finished mesh with threads to match the fabric.

In the same way, we perform the other two insert elements.

We connect the bodice and back on the shoulders with three straps 3 cm wide.

On fig. 162 another variant of the use of the Vologda line in writing is given. Instead of a trapezoid, you can make embroidery in the segment, make oval cutouts on the shoulders.


Rice. 162. Dress decorated with Vologda stitching according to the letter

Dress trimmed with colored entanglement (Fig. 166)

For this model, a blue-gray linen fabric is suitable, for embroidery - white, gray, blue and red floss. The ornament (Fig. 167) is performed on the bodice, on both sides of the cut, and on the sleeves. We frame the finished mesh with a “painted” seam and crosses with white threads. In the same way, we emphasize the line of the armhole.


Rice. 166. Dress trimmed with colored entanglement


Rice. 167. Scheme of an ornament for embroidery with colored interweaving

Before starting to embroider, we transfer the drawing completely to paper in a box with colored pencils or felt-tip pens - separately for the front of the bodice and sleeves. We calculate the length of embroidery on the sleeve according to the width of the sleeve. We draw halves of the front ornament with an interval of one cell. This is where the cutting line will be.

Now let's start embroidering on the front of the bodice. First, we outline the rectangle of the future grid and process it with a white floss with a satin roller. Then we draw the grid (the size of the cell is 3x3 mm) and wrap the columns according to the pattern. We wrap the background of the grid with gray threads. We frame the contour of the entwined mesh with a “painted” seam and crosses with white floss. The neckline and columns of the grid, along which a cut will be made along the front of the bodice, are tightly sheathed with a looped seam of a white floss.

Having completed the ornament on the sleeves, we sew the details of the dress. After that, we process the neck of the dress to the end, continuing the “painting” seam along the back, decorate the armholes with the same seam and make a neat cut in the center of the bodice along the buttonhole seam.

Elegant dress, decorated with colored entanglement (Fig. 168)

This dress, made of very thin light fabric, will suit slender women. For a belt and an embroidered insert on the shoulders, we take a denser fabric with a plain weave of threads. Belt width - 10 cm, inserts - 6 cm.


Rice. 168. elegant dress, decorated with colored entanglement

For embroidery, you can use any cross-stitch pattern, reworking it for the color interlace technique.

In the figure for the cross, we circle the borders of the cells filled with ornament with colored felt-tip pens. The vertical sides of the ornament cell correspond to the vertical columns of the embroidery, and the horizontal sides correspond to the horizontal columns. On the border of two colors, it turns out that the same column must be drawn with two different colors. In this case, we give preference to one color, trying not to distort the ornament. It must also be remembered that it is difficult to embroider single columns in a different color, since you have to fasten the working thread twice - at the beginning and at the end of the work. Colored interlacing does not allow any jumps of the working thread on the wrong side, as in blind embroidery, it cannot be hidden in the finished part of the ornament, as in flooring.

Embroidered insert ending with a fringe. The embroidery is made of burgundy, yellow and green floss.

On a piece of fabric, taking into account the fringe, we embroider an ornament (cell size 3x3 mm). Sew the insert along the line of the shoulder seam. The upper edge of the bodice, so that it does not shine through the mesh, is turned 1.5-2 cm inside out, tucked under the fringe to the insert and attached the mesh on the machine along the very edge. Then, in the usual manner, we process the armhole, decorate the neckline with a frill.

Embroidery is an integral part of Ukrainian clothing and household items, which has long become an ornament, a real brand that is of interest all over the world. It has passed through the centuries and still has not lost its relevance. This is a favorite type of folk art.

There are many types and techniques of embroidery, each of which is individual, different in style and purpose. One of the oldest, most interesting and most simple ways embroidery - hemstitch, which has long been a fairly well-known and popular type of needlework in different regions of Ukraine. Openwork and very elegant embroidery looks very elegant, and the products on which it was made are festive and elegant.

On the photo is the work of Lesya Demchuk

Merezhka embroider women's and men's shirts, skirts, children's things, towels, napkins, bed linen, tablecloths, it connects various parts of clothing instead of seams. Hems are sewn mainly with white or light colored threads (gray, pink, blue) on white fabric, and close to the tone if the fabric is colored.

Today, embroidery has not only returned to our lives, has become a fashionable decoration, but has also found its supporters among people of any age and gender. And many are trying to master the interesting technique of sewing hemstitch. Moreover, things decorated with hemstitch are always relevant.

If you are a patient, diligent and careful person, then your hemstitch will certainly turn out beautiful.

Types of hemstitches

A hemstitch is embroidered on a fabric, from which threads are usually removed in one direction (horizontally or vertically), and unstretched threads are combined with each other different ways into bundles that create patterns. They make hemstitches both narrow and simple, and very complex, which turns them almost into thin lace.

Depending on what kind of hemstitch is embroidered, its various types are determined by technique, size and complexity of execution.

One-sided and two-sided hemstitch

One-sided - hemstitching, in which the strips of fabric from which the threads are drawn are processed on only one side. Such embroidery is usually processed on the bottom of clothing.

Double-sided - strips of fabric from which the threads are drawn are processed from opposite sides. There are two types: columns (embroidered on both sides equally) and split (sewn in a checkerboard pattern). It can also be sewn with a rearrangement of columns, which are intertwined in various variations. They can be used as independent decorations of the product, and as an integral part of other hemstitches.

Simple and complex hemstitch

Simple hemstitching is performed in one technique and is taken as the basis for all types of mesh.

Complex is embroidered on two or more strips of fabric, from which the threads are drawn, and between which there is a fabric with undrawn threads. In a complex hemstitch, several of its types can be combined.

Narrow and wide hem

Narrow is a simple hemstitch up to two centimeters wide, for the embroidery of which three to five threads are drawn.

Wide can be up to three centimeters wide. Usually they are performed on a large hoop or frame made of four slats.

Preparatory stage

And you need to start, of course, with the choice of the product that you want to decorate with hemstitch, and the fabric from which the product will be sewn. Since hemstitching is performed by pulling out the threads, the fabric must also be chosen one from which they can be easily removed. Fabrics with intricate weaving are not suitable for hemstitching. It is best to opt for smooth fabrics such as linen, cambric, cotton, silk. You can also learn on canvas or burlap.

Depending on the density of the selected fabric, you need to choose threads. Our great-grandmothers used threads that they pulled out of the fabric on which they embroidered. Modern needlewomen for hemstitching take cotton threads, iris, linen, silk or floss (a floss made up of two, three or four threads, depending on the thickness of the fabric, is best suited). They also sew with ordinary threads on spools (for thin fabrics, threads with high numbers of 60-80 are taken, for coarse ones - with medium ones). The color of the threads can be chosen to your taste, but the pattern looks most impressive when the embroidery is close in color to the fabric.

You also need to have a tapestry needle with a large eye and a blunt tip, small but sharp scissors for cutting threads on fabric and a hoop, especially if you are going to make wide hemstitches.

Beginning of work

Before pulling the threads from the canvas for hemstitching, it is necessary to outline the place where it will be placed, and its size in width and length. The threads that need to be pulled out, cut, wrap the ends inside out and fasten.

"Backtacks" are made in two ways - by rocking or by cutting and restoring fabric threads.

Rocking chairs are columns that are embroidered from three to five threads wide, through one thread of fabric, along the entire height of the hemstitch. Both sides of the hemstitch are sewn with rocking chairs. The threads, fixed with rocking chairs and carefully cut, are pulled out, and the cut ends are bent with a needle towards the main fabric.

Before you fix the threads by cutting and restoring, it is necessary to cut two threads in the middle of the place where the hemstitch will be embroidered. Using a needle, pull one of them 2.5 centimeters further than your planned edge of the hemstitch, bringing the thread inside out. The second thread is pulled to the limit of the hemstitch, threaded through the needle and passed through the hole from the first thread and further along its path. The threads that remain must be carefully trimmed.

Merezhka is always embroidered, moving from the left side to the right, while the work is on the index finger. With the middle and thumb of the left hand, pull the vertical threads of the hemstitch. The knots on the working thread are not used, the end of the thread is pulled into the hemstitch.

When the working thread ends during embroidery, it is secured by bringing it to the reverse side and passed under the hemstitch stitches.

Hemstitching techniques

There are many patterns for hemstitch embroidery. Differences in the technique of making seams and even in names are associated with the region in which they became widespread, with craftswomen who made their own adjustments to existing types of embroidery, thereby enriching them with new types and techniques.

The most common and easy-to-perform hemstitch embroidery techniques are twigs, flooring, posts, buckwheat, lyahovka, spider, goat, bug, punk and the like. But all of them are based on a simple technique - a “single twig” (brush).

"Single twig"


In this type of embroidery, the hemstitch, from which the threads are stretched to a width of up to five millimeters, is processed only on one side. A needle with a fixed working thread is picked up on the fabric from three to five threads (no more than three millimeters), under which it is pulled. After that, the needle is injected to the right of the picked up threads and is brought to the face diagonally through several threads under the working thread. All picked up threads are tightened. The rest of the columns are done in the same way. It is necessary to ensure that in each twig the number of threads, the slope and length are the same throughout the hemstitch, which will make the pattern neat.

"Double twig" (double-sided, regular, ladder)


This is a single twig, it is performed on both sides of the hemstitch. After embroidering one side, the fabric turns and is embroidered in the same way on the other, forming vertical twigs. This hemstitch fits under the base for other patterns.

"Split twig" (forked, lattice, worm, zigzag, snake)


Merezhka, in which each twig is divided in half from below. They are performed when the number of threads in the twigs is a steam room. After completing a one-sided twig, the work is turned, as for a double one, but half the threads of one twig and half the threads of the other are joined together. It is used as an addition to the ornaments of complex hemstitches and for hemming products.

"Crossed twigs" (intertwined)


This is a kind of double twig, in which adjacent twigs are intertwined with each other. After completing the double twig, the working thread is fixed in the middle of the rocking chair on the right, and the needle is inserted above the first twig under the second and scrolls counterclockwise from right to left. The thread is pulled in the middle, twisting the posts together. This decorative stitch has various variations and degrees of complexity.

"Flooring"


A wider hemstitch, which is performed on an already finished hemstitch with a double twig, for which ten to twenty threads are pulled out of the canvas, depending on the required width. It is embroidered with threads in the tone of the canvas - “countless grid” or with multi-colored threads - “shabak”.

The twigs are connected by three or four pieces in columns, a white or colored thread is laid on them, forming a pattern. The flooring can be made in the form of squares, zigzags, rhombuses. The working thread runs from right to left, one column is collected on the needle, and the second is passed under it. When moving in the other direction, we do the opposite.

"Columns"


It is performed to complement the main ornament and is the base for all more complex embroideries. In most regions of Ukraine, the columns are embroidered with threads according to the color of the fabric or with red threads.

When preparing the fabric for hemstitching, the threads are drawn alternately: three threads are drawn, two remain, three or four are drawn, two remain, three are drawn. Depending on the pattern in the hemstitch, the ratio of elongated and left threads will also change. The width of the hemstitch will depend on the density of the fabric.





Merezhka is sewn in three rows: a single twig, a column, a double twig. Embroidery begins with a single twig, in which the number of threads in the column should be equal to the number of extracted threads (in our example there will be three). The second row of hemstitching is embroidered in columns: the needle is inserted at the first twig and passes behind it. The thread is stretched and forms a flooring out of two twigs. After that, the needle goes over the deck and exits behind the second twig from right to left. Then the same thing is repeated until the floorings come to the threads of the fabric, and the columns turn out to be dense. All subsequent columns are sewn according to the same pattern, while the number of decks in each column should be the same. In the third row, the top and bottom are embroidered with a single twig.

"Double column" (buckwheat, buckwheat)


Merezhka, which decorates stripes with an ornament. The sequence of pulling threads is the same as in the usual column, but in the second row more threads are removed from sewing (four to five).

The first row is embroidered with a single twig. In the second row, the columns are embroidered exactly to the middle of the row. After that, the work is rotated 180 degrees so that the columns that are already embroidered are on top. The columns are sewn from right to left, for this, the rocking chair and the first twig are first captured. All other columns divide the already embroidered ones in half. The third row is embroidered again with a single twig.

"Goat" (folded hemstitch)

A very common type of hemstitch, in which a large number of varieties are known. It is used as an independent type of ornament, and between other types of hemstitching to complement the pattern. To perform it, ten threads are pulled out, which are first combined in bunches into columns, and then two columns together in two rows. The working thread first knots two columns, and then goes down and knots two more, uniting one column from the first bundle with another one from the next. All others are performed in the same way.

"Punk" (subline)


It is embroidered to tighten the columns of two adjacent hemstitches or to design the fit of the product.

Before execution, the punks are pulled out twice in five threads. Between these rows, from two to five threads remain unstretched, on which it will be embroidered. Tassels are made on both sides of the non-stretched row, and the working thread performs a bottom-up stitch around this row. On the reverse side, a diagonal stitch is made to the right side and down, and the needle is brought out to the front side through several threads of the first stitch. Further, from the beginning of the stitch, a stitch is made diagonally upwards, and the brush is tightened.

"Bug"

Openwork hemstitch, which is sewn on the basis of double twigs.

The fixed working thread wraps around the first twig once or twice in the middle part of the hemstitch from right to left so that the thread passes under the twig. Next, a “needle forward” seam is performed: two twigs are captured under the needle, one above the needle. All three twigs are pulled together by two knots. The thread, when moving to the next bug, is always at the bottom.

"Spider"


Such hemstitching is performed on twigs assembled in a bundle.

First, the twigs are assembled together in the form of the letter “Zh”, after which, by sorting with a needle, two circles are made around the center: a twig for a needle, a twig for a needle. To another knot, the transition is made from the bottom of the previous one.

This type of hemstitching is also used to fill in empty squares when the threads in the pattern are pulled horizontally and vertically at the same time. The thread is pulled diagonally from one corner to another, in horizontal and vertical directions. These threads are twisted in a circle in the center, first in the direction of the clock, and then against.

"Lyakhovka"


This type is used in ornaments, most often as a line of limitation and is located below and above the hemstitch.

A lyakhovka is performed on the threads pulled out in series: first three are pulled out, the next three remain, after that a wide strip of up to ten threads is removed, and the pattern is repeated again - three remain, three are pulled out. Narrow hems are sheathed with single twigs. In the central part, two twigs are wrapped with a working thread, after which two others are taken from left to right under the needle - a loop is formed. Between the four twigs, threads of fabric and two twigs on the right are captured, and everything is wrapped around with a working thread. A working thread is taken on an elongated needle, which turned out to be under two threads of fabric. In the center, between the twigs, a rhombus (lyahovka) is formed. The next fragment of the pattern is created from two twigs of the first Lyakhovka and two other twigs.

In Ukrainian products embroidered with hemstitch, a multi-row lyahovka is often found. In it, the pattern is carried out in a checkerboard pattern.

We introduced you to the basic techniques of traditional Ukrainian hemstitching: from the simplest thin one to the more complex multi-row one. We hope that our tips will help you master this amazing type of embroidery and give you confidence in your work. A creative combination in one ornament various techniques will make your embroidered products unique.